My F1 is reprofiled at a much more acute angle and I'm still gradually honing... To be honest I put most of my efforts into the A1 which I made into a true Scandi grind, and the H1 which I also made into a true Scandi and which I mostly use. WM1 and F1 still need more work whenever I get to it - but they do work for thin fuzzies as they are now.
The big thing is the blades are made to military specifications and those people specify more for edge durability than woodworking potential. I haven't seen any edge robustness problems with my thinned versions and the VG10 is an excellent steel. Despite their thickness, the H1 and A1 reprofiled do an excellent job on wood - better than most would suspect. What things really come down to is that narrow blades work best for finer woodcarving, and everything else is a compromise.
In the final analysis for me - it comes down to always returning to lighter knives such as the Moras or Murphy's simply because I can string them around my neck. I prefer not to carry knives on my belt now. Maybe I took a long and circuitous route to find that out, but by trial and error I did. I'm sure that I could make up some sort of shoulder sheath, for heavier blades, but while I like "Tour of Duty" and "Exposure" I don't want to look like I've watched those shows too many times...