Ever Started Something You Wish You Hadn't?

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durulz

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Jun 9, 2008
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OK, I've made a start on a Nimblewill stove. Forgot I had a large sheet of stainless steel in the shed (see thread elsewhere).
Anyway.
Marked out all the bits, went down the DIY shop to get some cutting discs for the Dremel and have started cutting.
Wish I hadn't.
It's dawned on me how much cutting there is and how much it's going to cost me in cutting discs.
But I've started now. And if I stop then I've wasted time and money. I have to finish it to make that effort worth something.
Which brings me on to my question. It's for Dremel owners (or anyone who owns an equivalent tool). Diamond cutting discs - are they worth it? A pack of 10 normal cutting discs cost £3.50. A SINGLE diamond disc costs £10. So, will a diamond disc last 30 (ten in a pack, 3 times as much in cost) times as long as a normal cutting disc? Just trying to work out the most cost-effective way, since I reckon I'll get through maybe 4 or 5 packs of those normal discs.
Cheers
 

launditch1

Maker Plus and Trader
Nov 17, 2008
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Eceni county.
The most cost effective thing would be to buy a proper disc grinder.Dremel discs dont last very well IMO...Sounds like a false economy to me...Theres loads on the bay at the moment.
 

Mesquite

It is what it is.
Mar 5, 2008
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Have you got a 4" angle grinder Durulz? That would most likely be the best way to to cut it up and use the dremel for the more intricate cuts
 

jojo

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Aug 16, 2006
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Seconded!

added more characters

Thirded!!! You can get reasonably good, inexpensive 115mm grinder. I use thin 4" cutting disc made for cutting stainless and they cost 70 pence each.

Even Axminster has cheap grinders

That will cut your steel in no time. Think of the numbers of hours it will take you with a Dremel, and put a price on those hours of work, it'll be worth it.


Just have to be careful it does not bite you, particularly if you never used one before.
Then you can use sanding discs on it to clean and shape metals. Even knives!
 

Shewie

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Dec 15, 2005
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I agree on the angle grinder, I picked up a 115mm DeWalt in the sale at B&Q a couple of years ago for less than £30.

As for starting something I wish I hadn`t then it`s got to be renovating the staircase and bannisters in our house. Been at it 4 weeks and I`m not even half way yet.
 

Barney

Settler
Aug 15, 2008
947
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Lancashire
there is guy on BB selling INNOX(stainless spec) cutting discs a quid each. Says they are thin as well. one o them in a 4" grinder should be able to cut something out size of a 2p
 

Retired Member southey

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Jun 4, 2006
11,098
13
your house!
on the dremmel question, if you mean the speed klic system fiberglass reinforced blades, they have a special holder bit with a sprung grab on the end, if you get my meaning, then yes they are very hard wearing and beacause of the sprung end they will forgive the odd bit of sideways force unlike the cheaper blades. i have used them when fabricating skin repairs for augusta helis, cutting titanium, stainsteel, ally of variouse thicknesses and was very impressed at the speed it would cut. but i do agree that a small grinder is better for longer cuts.
 

durulz

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Jun 9, 2008
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on the dremmel question, if you mean the speed klic system fiberglass reinforced blades...

No, not those. The ones they have locally are the Rotacraft diamond ones. Wondered how good they were.
Oh yeah - cheers so far everyone. But I'll be sticking with the Dremel - can't really justify shelling out money on a grinder I won't use that often. Appreciate the advice anyway. But would like to know anyone's recommendations for the best stainless steel cutting tool on the Dremel.
 

Mike Ameling

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Jan 18, 2007
872
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Iowa U.S.A.
www.angelfire.com
I went a different route when cutting lots of flat iron/steel sheet - especially along straight lines.

I picked up several metal cutting 6 1/2 inch blades that fit on my electric circular saw. I put my metal sheet on a bench/table, with blocks underneath to support it but also to raise it at least an inch above the table. I then adjust the blade depth on my circular "skilsaw" so that only an inch of the abrasive cutt-off blade is exposed. Now I VERY CAREFULLY put it in place, tilt it up so the front guide is touching the metal, turn it on, and slowly lower it down to "grind/cut" through the metal. When I need to, I will slowly move it forward along the lines I have mark out.

Just like using that circular saw with a regular blade to cut out shapes in a sheet of plywood, it will do the same on a sheet of metal. The hard part is that initial ... plunge cut ... to get it started. Then just move slowly up to the ends of your marked out lines.

It works pretty well. But it is mildly dangerous - just like doing the same thing on a sheet of plywood. Do check your circular saw occasionally to see if it is heating up too much.

What you are doing is turning your wood cutting "skilsaw" circular saw into a metal cutting "chopsaw". And then hand-holding it instead of having it rigged up on a hinged table. Just be VERY CAREFUL free-hand cutting with it. Those abrasive metal-cutting blades don't like to be flexed to the side much, and can chip/break - sending high speed shrapnel flying!


Started something and then wished I hadn't? Yes. But she finally decided to leave. So that ... problem ... went away.

Note: this works for me. Other people's experience with it may vary.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 

Gailainne

Life Member
Check Aldi and Lidl they both do dremel clone accessories and they have diamond cutting discs in them, I used one to cut my st.st flat pack stove, although it was only the slots, I used a band saw with a metal blade for the main cutting. It may be a hacksaw with a good metal cutting blade is the way to go.

Good luck with the stove.
 

johnnytheboy

Native
Aug 21, 2007
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Defo the grinder option, got a dewalt one from screwfix which is basically bandq and i have used it for metal, slabs, tiles etc etc, you would use it for a hundred things once you get it, make sure you get a 115mm as they are phasing out the old 4" ones, plasma blades (1mm Thick) is best for tidyness on metal
 

Mike Ameling

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Jan 18, 2007
872
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Iowa U.S.A.
www.angelfire.com
I've got several Dewalt angle grinders - the 4 1/2 inch ones. And a big 7 inch Craftsman. I really love those sanding flap discs for them. You can "grind" with them if you really want to, but they really smooth out metal edges fast. They also remove forge scale off of knife blades quickly - instead of eating up good files!

I've used them with grinding and cutting discs on metal bars, pipe, and reinforcing rod in concrete. And they sure beat using a hacksaw under a vehicle to cut exhaust pipe.

After I got my first angle grinder, I couldn't believe how well they worked and found lots more uses. And I wondered why I waited so long to get one.

But for the straight cuts on flat sheet, I still use the circular saw with that abrasive cut-off blade. And with the "ceramic" cutting blade, the do wonders on marble and limestone!

A friend needed to cut a big I beam. He started to cut using his Milwaukee sawsall. After the second blade he quit for the day. The next day I brought over my circular saw with that abrasive cut-off wheel. In 2 minutes with 3 different cuts I had it cut off. He couldn't believe it. And since then, he keeps finding more uses for MY saw! It's a heavy duty old Black and Decker with a 25 foot cord and the blade guard removed. The guy I got it from worked construction and used it to trim on roofs and cut floor openings - thus the blade guard removed and the extra long cord. You just have to be very careful using it, and never set it down until the blade stops!

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 

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