Edge nicked - Anyone available to re-profile the edge?

[Bushcraft4life]

Picked up a cheap Spyderco Sage S30v with a very (very) slight nick in the blade.

I can competently sharpen but this needs some special attention.

Is there anyone able to help me out? Will happily pay for the service and of course return postage.

Thanks!

 

[John Fenna]

That looks like it should just work out with time/use/regular sharpening!

 

[JonathanD]

That won’t take long too sharpen out at all over a short period of time. I’ve had worse…

 

[HillBill]

If you can competently sharpen, then you can get that out easily enough. It shouldn't take too long at all in all fairness.

 

[C_Claycomb]

Picked up a cheap Spyderco Sage S30v with a very (very) slight nick in the blade.

I can competently sharpen but this needs some special attention.

Is there anyone able to help me out? Will happily pay for the service and of course return postage.

Thanks!

That looks like the perfect justification to get a coarser diamond stone!

I can recommend blue DMT Dia and Duofold, but this stuff from Axminster is cheaper and will do nicely too, and the price has come down, it used to be £19

Axminster Workshop Diamond Sheets

These diamond-coated flexible steel sheets are incredibly versatile. They are ideal for making your own sharpening, honing, deburring, grinding, shaping or polishing tools. The sheets are 100mm wide and 200mm long, stainless steel, 0.4mm thick,...

www.axminstertools.com

or the 400 grit version.

A buddy took a bite out of an S30V edge that ran about a bevel's width further up the blade than the bevel! THAT required pro-reprofiling, but that little nick is just sharpening.

 

[Bushcraft4life]

Thanks for the replies. I am just concerned about messing it up even more to be honest.

Currently have a 600/2000 Whetstone which I use, assuming this should be ok or should I go for something courser?

 

[Broch]

Personally, I would just use it and sharpen it as normal, as everyone has said, in no time at all it will have gone. I wouldn't even use a courser stone; why waste the blade? It won't stop you doing anything you want as it is I suspect.

 

[keen-edge]

Thanks for the replies. I am just concerned about messing it up even more to be honest.

Currently have a 600/2000 Whetstone which I use, assuming this should be ok or should I go for something courser?

The two stones you have should do the job then a leather strop to finish off ATB

 

[HillBill]

The two stones you have should do the job then a leather strop to finish off ATB

Not so sure. S30v has vanadium carbides, rather than chromium carbides. I normally recommend diamond stones for that kind of steel. It is highly wear resistant.

 

[HillBill]

Thanks for the replies. I am just concerned about messing it up even more to be honest.

Currently have a 600/2000 Whetstone which I use, assuming this should be ok or should I go for something courser?

Go for something like a diamond plate as Chris suggested above, rather than a water stone. Certain steels need something a little more robust.

 

[keen-edge]

Not so sure. S30v has vanadium carbides, rather than chromium carbides. I normally recommend diamond stones for that kind of steel. It is highly wear resistant.

Sorry i thought it was 01 steel

 

[demographic]

Hell, I bought a cheapo 80 grit diamond plate a while ago.
Not much faffing about with that and its easy enough to go to 400 and 1000 after. I can go to a strop after that but the main point is getting a proper coarse plate for the times when I want fast.
I sometimes use a file on a knife but some blades are hard enough that a file struggles on them.