DIY Stove?

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Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
I want to make a gas bottle stove of sorts. It is going to be made of a air compressor tank.
Im planning on cutting off both ends and welding on plates on each end.
It will have feet at the bottoms.
I want to bring the flues out the back and then up and out the roof of my shed.
How far up the back should the flue be. Towards the top or can it be in the middle.
Ive got a piece of plate with largish holes around the edge that could be used on the bottom. This im hoping would allow ash out and a good amount of air flow.
Would it be a good idea to make the top plate bigger than the the diameter of the stove.
The tank is 1ft radius.
What size flue is best and where would be best to get it cheap as on ebay its about £30 for 1m of flue. :eek:
Im going to be welding it.
Thanks
Jacob
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
71
60
Mid Wales UK
There are so many variables that it will be both difficult to tell you what will work - but I'm sure there will be a combination that does work. If you are going to put a flat plate on the top, (kind of a cooking surface) I wouldn't want the flue to come out of the top, that would be a waste of work - I'd opt for it coming out of the back of the stove, close to the top. Holes around the bottom are a good idea for starting the stove but you'll be surprised at how quickly they become blocked with ash - reducing the air flow. I think you'll also need a regulator hole about 1/4 way up from the bottom, to allow air in for continued combustion, which can be opened/closed as you want.

ATB

Ogri the trog
 

Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
Thanks for the reply. Yeh I will put a regulator hole at the front with an adjuster on it. I just wondered if it would be ok to have the holes on the bottom as I've already got a bit that is the right size. I will bring the flue out the back. What about making the plate on top oversize for an increased working area
Thanks
Jacob
 

belzeebob23

Settler
Jun 7, 2009
570
0
54
glasgow
hi jacob
If your planing on welding it all together, have you thought about trying your local scrap dealer to see if they have any 4" sprinkler pipe.
They tend to have threaded ends for contecting, and so fittngs can be attached.
With your plan to come out of back of stove, a small horizontail piece to a T fitting with a screw cap end , to your vertical flue.
With the T in place and a screw fitting at bottom this will give you access for cleaning the flue.

Bob
 

Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
That sounds like a good idea. Yes I'm welding it. I'm going to the scrappy to see if I can get the stop plate.
I will look out for that as the whole flue and roof flashing was going to be £52 including a witch hat which isn't bad but if I can get it cheaper the yay. Also what is the right sized flue. Is 5" ok.
Thanks
Jacob
 

belzeebob23

Settler
Jun 7, 2009
570
0
54
glasgow
hey Jacob
I would say bigger is better for the flue.
I dare say, it will depend on what size you can get your hands on at the time.
I wouldn't go any smaller than 4" for the flue.

bob
 

belzeebob23

Settler
Jun 7, 2009
570
0
54
glasgow
hi Jacob
Hope it helps.
You said its 1' (300mm) radius which would be 2' (600mm) diameter which would be approx size of a steel drum?
It's going to be one big stove?
You must have a huge shed to fit that into.
Bob
 

Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
sorry i meant 1 foot daimeter so it like the size of a gas bottle.
Ive made a start and cut both ends off (pics to come) ans ive started grinding off all the legs and that. Next step is to cut the door out.
Im going to have a grate. I think i will support this with metal rods and then might go for an ash pan.
Cant wait to start welding!
Thanks
Jacob
 

TurboGirl

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 8, 2011
2,326
1
Leicestershire
www.king4wd.co.uk
My calor vented outta the top, I should have asked hubby to weld a plate halfway across underneath it to deflect and thermocycle the heat to stay in better :) Oh and a baffle in the flue would have been a great improvement.... and spark arrester mesh somewhere accesible for cleaning, all on the list for the next adaptions ;) I used approx 4" dia for the flue.

If its fixed position, I guess you can go as large as you want on the top but careful of centre of gravity if its freestanding unless you're compensating with leg spread :)

ps can't wait to see your project pics as it develops, sounds a proper job unlike my hack n throw together attempt!!
 

Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
I will do a full write up soon. Ill get the camera rolling now. What does a baffle in the flue do. Also what is a spark arrestor.
Turbogirl can you elaborate on the plate that should of been welded to increase the thermo cycle.
Thanks
Jacob
 

TurboGirl

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 8, 2011
2,326
1
Leicestershire
www.king4wd.co.uk
Theres an explaination of the baffle here, will edit to include any other handy finds showing the flue baffle/ damper :) I'm sure there was one on the tute we based our calor bottle stove on, link here Tis often a butterfly closure operated from outside the flue for convenience :)

I use this site for checking availability of consumables, it might be of interest to you for rope seals etc. Never actually used them, I'm a fleabay kinda gal ;)

I'm sorry, some of my terminology is wrong/ americanised :)
 
Last edited:
A few suggestions here from Canada, First I would recommend you have no holes in the bottom of the stove you cant close off. The top of the stove often in the "Flue" you should have a damper Ie sliding plate or round "butterfly valve" if in the flue. This way you can control the fresh air coming in and the hot air/smoke going out. The closer to the top of the stove the flue is the easier it will be to light. Are there and breakers close to you were you could get a piece of exhaust pipe from a big lorry for your flue?
"Also what is a spark arrestor." A mesh screento catch bits of burning paper etc which have a habit of rushing up the flue when you get a good draw going.
 

Outdoordude

Native
Mar 6, 2012
1,099
1
Kent
Ah that explains what a spark arrester. I think i wont to have one though as this is for a shed not a tent. Im going to have a valve in the flue but ive already welded the bottom plate on with the holes. So what would you recommend now. Im going to my local scrap yard next weekend to get the top plate so ill have a look then.

Im going to start a build along thread in a minute so you can see what ive done so far. :)
 
If you wanted to get real fancy you could build a sheet metal ash drawer to go on the bottom and if you are careful it would stop most of the air. I would probably just try it as it is, and if its OK leave it, if not weld the holes shut or fill them with bolts and washers.
 

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