diferent grinds

[dave53]

hi all somwhere on the forum are diagrams of the different grinds for our bladesand there uses can anyone direct me to the link please regards dave

 

[JonathanD]

 

[dave53]

thanks jonathan any idea which grind is best for what regards dave

 

[JonathanD]

thanks jonathan any idea which grind is best for what regards dave

Oh boy, now you are asking. You'll also get a different reply from everyone.

I can do everything within bushcrafting lore with a full flat and scandi. I can do those things better with a full flat and high ground scandi with smaller secondary bevel. Hollow and convex don't perform very well for me on most bushcrafting tasks. High flat I like, but get better performances out of a full flat and scandi with secondary.

Incidentally, a true scandi grind has a micro secondary bevel (as seen in tradition Puukkos etc). The scandi in the above picture should be known as a full (or zero) ground scandi.

It is all open to user preference though.

 

[dave53]

thanks jonathan ive tagged this post for reference regards dave

 

[Aussiepom]

Just a quick note to add:

The one that Jonathan has labelled as a high flat is known by many people as a sabre grind.

 

[jonnie drake]

heres a bump for a useful post cheers JD.

 

[FGYT]

Just a quick note to add:

The one that Jonathan has labelled as a high flat is known by many people as a sabre grind.

sabre grind is generally half way up above that is hight to full flat

andthe Convex looks like a full flat with convex secondary so a Flanvex

then theres my combo Flandi and now Alan wood is doing a Handi (hollow to mini scandi)

all gets very complex but they all cut well for some one

if yo ucan get to the gathering i will ahve a few diffetn grinds to loo kat an try etc

ATB

Duncan

 

[Norum311]

I grind my blades on a Bader grinder with a large contact wheel.

With a full Scandi grind I get a very sharp knife.

This is one example.

Best regards
Norum311

 

[sgw1]

I agree with JD re the uses of different grinds for different tasks, everyone tends to have there own favourites and I suspect that we arrive at a best for ourselves because we practise with one more than the other.

A word for the full convex though...

While not as sexy as flats and hollows, it comes into it's own when carving complex shapes. For such jobs the grind behind the edge is often used as a fulcrum to control the edge. A full flat doesn't offer a fulcrum at all, a half flat and a scadi only offer one fixed fulcrum. A full convex though offers infinite fulcrum points across the curve of the grind.

It is also of course used as an excuse for a bad grind.

Any carvers or whittlers might want to try a full convex for intricate work.

 

[BarryG]

How do you create and maintain a micro bevel on a scandi grind?

Is it just a case of changing the angle at the end of sharpening for a couple of strokes?
If so what is a recommended angle?

 

[JonathanD]

How do you create and maintain a micro bevel on a scandi grind?

Is it just a case of changing the angle at the end of sharpening for a couple of strokes?
If so what is a recommended angle?

Use a very fine ceramic stone. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker. 40 degrees is spot on for me.

 

[Hoodoo]

Incidentally, a true scandi grind has a micro secondary bevel (as seen in tradition Puukkos etc).

Well, if we are talking traditional grinds, a "true scandi" is a hollow grind.