De- Rusting with Molasses... yes I know... but it works...!!!!
I have been looking at the different ways of de rusting old tools, having used the off the shelf Rust converters, and also the normal house hold Acids – Lemon, Vinegar, Electrolysis has also come into the frame, I came across the method of using Molasses..... while speaking to a friend that restores Old tools, but he himself had not used it, so spent some time in research of the method, it turns out that is an “ olden day’s “ way...
This is not the quick fix method it takes a while... weeks even, it’s a very “soft option”, and has none of the harsh effects of Buffing, Blasting, Sanding, or Acids, as it only attacks the Rust and not the solid parent metal.
Fill the bucket up with the normal amount of water and add Molasses to the Ratio of 10:1, its not an exact science, I have just used Tate and Lyle Black Treacle this time, don’t worry about the quantities to much, if you can remove all the wood parts as all this does is masks the areas, but will come to no harm apart form be dyed nye on Black, from what I have found out about the process. Make sure that all parts are well de-greased as this will act as a mask as well.
Drop the parts in and leave, you should see the fermentation process start, the first time I did it the fermentation did not start for nearly a week, this is normal, best not to taste it though, leave until, when this process finishes take it out and check, at this point it means that the sugars have just been used up by the fermentation , the liquid will still continue to work after this.
After a week take out the item and wash the Black Gunk off (it’s just Sugar water), dry and wipe the surfaces off with oil to prevent the re-formation of rust. If it still needs some more time just plop it back in and wait....... then revisit and wash, I use a Green Scourer as this helps remove any gunk that is left....
This solution can be stored and saved, then to liven it up, when you reuse it, whisk it up to get some air into the solution, if that does not work add some more Molasses.
As you can see the Rust is slowly disappearing....
The solution only attacks the Rust and does not affect the Steel/iron, so you can drop the parts in and forget for a few weeks.... it does not affect Paint unless the rust goes under the paint, then it will eat away the rust and the Paint will lift. The same is with any plating method as well..
On researching the Process that is used is called Chelating pronounced “Kelaiting”, it’s a food preservative action that bonds with the Metal Ions, (normally Copper or Iron) in certain foods to prevent oxidation, the name comes from the Greek word for crabs claw, due to the Chelating agent have two groups of atoms that encircle the Metal Ion like the claws of a crab, the agents are also known as sequestrates,
This process only works if there is a very small amount of acid about to kick the process, of once it is going then it will carry on working until all the rust is removed, one thing that can be done is add a a couple of teaspoons of an acid such as vinegar to speed up the effect. Once the acid is used up it will no longer affect the bare Iron/Steel...
I used an old Eagle 310 Axe head, for an attempt that was quite rusty, this image does not do it justice, and left it for a week, too it out and found that the major rust had disappeared and the patina was left with a few bits of rust in the makers mark.
I have now put it back in and will leave it for another week....... and update the thread...
I have been looking at the different ways of de rusting old tools, having used the off the shelf Rust converters, and also the normal house hold Acids – Lemon, Vinegar, Electrolysis has also come into the frame, I came across the method of using Molasses..... while speaking to a friend that restores Old tools, but he himself had not used it, so spent some time in research of the method, it turns out that is an “ olden day’s “ way...
This is not the quick fix method it takes a while... weeks even, it’s a very “soft option”, and has none of the harsh effects of Buffing, Blasting, Sanding, or Acids, as it only attacks the Rust and not the solid parent metal.
Fill the bucket up with the normal amount of water and add Molasses to the Ratio of 10:1, its not an exact science, I have just used Tate and Lyle Black Treacle this time, don’t worry about the quantities to much, if you can remove all the wood parts as all this does is masks the areas, but will come to no harm apart form be dyed nye on Black, from what I have found out about the process. Make sure that all parts are well de-greased as this will act as a mask as well.
Drop the parts in and leave, you should see the fermentation process start, the first time I did it the fermentation did not start for nearly a week, this is normal, best not to taste it though, leave until, when this process finishes take it out and check, at this point it means that the sugars have just been used up by the fermentation , the liquid will still continue to work after this.
After a week take out the item and wash the Black Gunk off (it’s just Sugar water), dry and wipe the surfaces off with oil to prevent the re-formation of rust. If it still needs some more time just plop it back in and wait....... then revisit and wash, I use a Green Scourer as this helps remove any gunk that is left....
This solution can be stored and saved, then to liven it up, when you reuse it, whisk it up to get some air into the solution, if that does not work add some more Molasses.
As you can see the Rust is slowly disappearing....
The solution only attacks the Rust and does not affect the Steel/iron, so you can drop the parts in and forget for a few weeks.... it does not affect Paint unless the rust goes under the paint, then it will eat away the rust and the Paint will lift. The same is with any plating method as well..
On researching the Process that is used is called Chelating pronounced “Kelaiting”, it’s a food preservative action that bonds with the Metal Ions, (normally Copper or Iron) in certain foods to prevent oxidation, the name comes from the Greek word for crabs claw, due to the Chelating agent have two groups of atoms that encircle the Metal Ion like the claws of a crab, the agents are also known as sequestrates,
This process only works if there is a very small amount of acid about to kick the process, of once it is going then it will carry on working until all the rust is removed, one thing that can be done is add a a couple of teaspoons of an acid such as vinegar to speed up the effect. Once the acid is used up it will no longer affect the bare Iron/Steel...
I used an old Eagle 310 Axe head, for an attempt that was quite rusty, this image does not do it justice, and left it for a week, too it out and found that the major rust had disappeared and the patina was left with a few bits of rust in the makers mark.
I have now put it back in and will leave it for another week....... and update the thread...
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