DC3 / DC4 Fallkniven whetstones

[Marts]

I have been considering a DC4 for sharpening but have heard that they don't suit sharpening many carbon steel blades. Does anyone know why this is. All my knives are carbon steel!!

 

[Hoodoo]

It will work just fine for carbon steel. They are excellent sharpening tools.

 

[Lost in civilisation]

Yep they are good on stainless and carbon steel.

Fallkniven just say that they are designed for sharpening the powder steel they use in some of their knife range.

Remember to look at the size though as they are compact

 

[Lithril]

I've had a DC4 for a while now and love it, can easily get a razor sharp edge on my knife. I know a few people have had problems with the two halfs splitting apart but luckily I've not suffered this yet. Personally I'd say get one, they're compact and do the job well.

 

[Squidders]

I have used a DC4 and DC3 on D2 and laminated stainless and they've been great.

 

[brucemacdonald]

The DC4 is an excellent piece of kit, I use mine on my Allan Blade Scandi Pack Pal and it sharpens it to a keen edge.

I really only use the diamond side, and not the sapphire side, and use a birch polypore as a strop.

Best wishes

Bruce

 

[Scally]

i us emy blades all of the time and like u 90% are carbon and it puts a keen hard standing edge on mine

 

[andyn]

Thought I would dreg up this old thread rather than starting a new one, I've managed to lay my hands on one of these and being a bit of a novice am a little unsure on hte best way to sharpen my knife. I have also purchased a frost knife in order to practice with before destorying my Helle Trofe.

I have read in the knife sharpening guide here that i sharpen by pretending i was trying to shave a thin layer off the whetstone and repeat the procedure several times on each side.

However on the box of the DC4 it say to sharpen by moving the blade in circular motions.

I'm very confused and some advice on how best to use the bit of kit would be greatly appreciated.

Which side is which and which side i should use for what would also be of great help!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Stuart]

sharpening a kinfe is one of those skill where it is better to start off learning from one source and only when you have mastered it explore other ways.

if you try to learn several different methods from several different sources all at once you will just end up very very confused. the method described on the BCUK knife sharpening guide will work fine on a DC4 but you will find it more difficult as the stone is so small. which is why the guide recommends you get a japanese bench stone to learn on.

 

[Andy]

I really don't like the shaving a thin slice off the stone. When I told people that they always seemed to raise the spine of the knife too much as this is how you would shave a layer off a piece of wood. You might not have this problem though. I use a circular motion with my pocket norton stone as it's too small to use as a bench stone and I find it easier to hold the knife still.

 

[tanto]

First of all i want to say that im very happy with my DC3. I have tried it on several knives and different steels, i even got a nice edge on a axe with it. Never meet a knife i could not get shaving sharp.

Here is the instructions on how to use the DC3/4 directly from the Fällkniven site:

How to sharpen your knife:

Use a fine or superfine diamond stone, the edge you get will generally suit all purposes. To achieve a razorsharp edge, finish with a white or black arkansas stone, used with oil.

What to do: Try to cut a slice off the stone. Impossible of course, but you will make the right movement and will surely keep the correct angle! A circular movement along the edge will also bring a good edge. Finish with some light, polishing strokes.

Try for yourself to shape the edge which fits your wishes best by grinding and honing the edge to different thicknesses. Keep in mind that a thick edge will last better than a thin one, but doesn’t feel as sharp nor does it cut wood like a thin edge will - find out what suits you best. Always keep the knife sharp, as a proper knife will be used with respect and will do the job perfectly well, a dull one might cause injury.

I practiced on cheap knives with different blade profiles before doing my more expensive ones.

Best Regards

 

[fa11en ange1]

Although only a novice myself, I have found it easier to practice your technique first on a bench stone (and I only have a cheap oil stone for this) to achieve the desired level of sharpness. You can then transfer those skills to the DC Whetsone, a 3 in my case, without too much trouble. The only difference is the size of the stone, so you need to work on a smaller section of the blade for the whetstone.

I find it easy enough to use the 'slicing' sharpening technique on the DC3, but you need to sit with it on you thigh while wearing something like jeans to help hold the stone. Just use a very light action and you won't risk cutting yourself.

I agree that you should avoid trying too many techniques at first, that's how I managed to blunt my Mora at first. The slicing technique appears to be the most universally recommended and was reasonably easy to learn.

 

[andyn]

Is it best to use the stone long ways so that it covers 1/2 of the blade. but can perform longer strokes, or width ways so that it covers the whole blade but shorter strokes?

There appears to be a difference in texture between width and length. Will one direction cause damage?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[fa11en ange1]

I use mine length ways, which gets my knife sharp enough to slice news paper without snagging and has left me with a number of bald patches too

 

[andyn]

had a brief play around on a frost knife and seem to be getting the hang of it. Managed to remove all the ink (as suggested to try on the box)

Cheers for the help!

 

[bilko]

had a brief play around on a frost knife and seem to be getting the hang of it. Managed to remove all the ink (as suggested to try on the box)

Cheers for the help!

NOOOOO!!
They only tell you to do that so you can't take it back when it brakes!



joke!
I need some sharpening stones so i'm going to scout round the forum. I like RM's big ones that he takes in a plastic green pouch everywhere.
Japanese whetstones i think. Anyone know where i can get some/them?
Thanks!
ooh, planning on getting a SFA this week so i need to be able to use it with that aswell.

 

[bilko]

OK scratch that
As usual i am being a complete sardine!
Just seen the price of the japanese stones and if you lot are happy with the dc dtuff then it must be good enough at more than quarter the price.
So, do i need a dc3 and dc4 or just one?

 

[leon-1]

DC3's and 4's are classed as being pocket or feild stones. Bench stones (Japanese Waterstones) that a lot of use at home are bought from Axminster Just type in waterstones into the search box and it will come up with some which are quite reasonably priced

 

[odin13]

wheres the best place to buy them fallkniven whetstones from?
cheers,
alex

 

[bilko]

DC3's and 4's are classed as being pocket or feild stones. Bench stones (Japanese Waterstones) that a lot of use at home are bought from Axminster Just type in waterstones into the search box and it will come up with some which are quite reasonably priced

Excellent link Leon 1
Thanks
I got the 800, 1200 and 600 together with the clamp.
together with Rays excellent video tutorials and advice from this site i should have my knife back in shape in no time at all.
Although i know one can use the leather belt as a strop i have found a colony of buirch polymores. ( clinical smelling too ) and i thought it would be a wonderfull idea to use that as a strop.
Am i right in thinking that you have to dry it out first?
Also i found the top layer is somewhat elastic but is it this or the inner pulp that one can use as a field dressing/plaster.
Lastly i take it there are no harmfull toxins etc in thee pollymer?

thanks for your wonderful tips guys.