I have only played with this, there lots of hard core dyers on BCUK.
Basic rules for mordant.
If dyeing skeins of yarn, make sure that the skeins are tied securely, but loosely in at least 3 places, to avoid tangling. If you tie them tightly or use rubber bands you tend to get a tie-dye effect. The mordanted yarns can be dyed immediately, or dried and stored for later natural dyeing. The alum/tartaric acid mixture is suitable for wools, silks and other protein fibres.
1. Always use a clean fabric or yarn. If its new from a roll, wash it to remove any dressings. If doing skeins of wool, silk or yarn use clean scoured wool or yarn.
2. Fill a large pot with clean water and heat.
3. Weigh the material.
4. Using 10% Alum to weight of fibre, mix the Alum into the hot water.
5. If you are doing silk or wool add 5% Tartaric Acid to weight of fibre, add the Tartaric acid to the hot water mixture.
6. Rinse the material so that it is damp. Wring out, do not have it dripping wet.
7. Add the material into the hot Alum mixture.
8. Make sure that it is all covered by the Alum water, if not, add more water to the pot.
9. Simmer the mordant mixture for about an hour at 90 degrees Celsius. Do not boil.
10. Remove from the Alum mixture.
11. If you are dye quantities of material. The Alum mixture can be reused by adding 1/2 the amount of Alum and Tartaric Acid.
Basic rules for dye
Chop plant material into small pieces and place in a pot.
Double the amount of water to plant material.
Bring to a boil, then simmer for about an hour.
Strain for bits, separate plant material from dye.
Now add your fabric to be dyed.
Stir in fabric and keep it covered by solution.
For a strong shade, allow material to soak in the dye overnight.
Dry. When drying hang by one edge on a washing line, this will avoid drying marks.
Wash excess out.
Have fun
oh yes, invest in a pair of marigolds or the world will thing you smoke about 140 packs a day!
Sandsnakes