Does anyone know anything about Reelight 150 bike lights and where I can get them in the uk?
http://www.reelight.com/
http://www.reelight.com/
Cycling questions
- Thread starter mark a.
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I'm very content with this torch 
Very much light, not just a normal bicycle flashlight.
I always have it in my rugsack and while camping. (don't need any bigger lights). Good casing. Price: 40 euro.
Very much light, not just a normal bicycle flashlight.I always have it in my rugsack and while camping. (don't need any bigger lights). Good casing. Price: 40 euro.
Helmet, yes!
Lights yes. Hi-viz vest, no.
Lock, a D shaped one.
The only foldable I tried that didn't feel like a toy was a brompton. Everything beneath it is not worthwhile to bother with. It should be fun to bike, otherwise you won't do it.
The most bang for the buck are used old 10 speed road bikes. Drop bars are very very good, I have four bikes, three have dropbars (one actually got TT bars too..). The fourth have a moustache handlebar, like the surly pictured above. I absolutely hate straight or raised bars now, after having discovered the drop bar. Being able to change grip and tuck into the drop during fast descents is brilliant.
Be sure to get a frame with a geometry that fits you, that is imperative. You loose a lot of efficiency by having a to small or big frame. Also make sure the geometry fits the purpose of the bike. There is a lot of difference between a city bike for cruising the odd kilometer and a serious commuting bike used for 30 kms a day. The ladies frame is useless, you loose efficiency and stiffness, and gain weight. Mixte frames (as they are properly called) should only be used on a doctors ordination.
Also, try to get as light and stiff bike you could afford, with derailleur gears, not internal gears. Energy and power efficiency is the key to having fun on a bike. Get a good insurance while you're at it.
My commuting bike is an old miyata road bike (with down tube shifters), with a generator hub, stainless steel mudguards and front rack added. I have yet to find anything to beat this setup. 25 mm tires handles anything from tarmac to gravel and are available with kevlar lining, haven't had a flat in 3 years. Low rolling resistance too.
Lights yes. Hi-viz vest, no.
Lock, a D shaped one.
The only foldable I tried that didn't feel like a toy was a brompton. Everything beneath it is not worthwhile to bother with. It should be fun to bike, otherwise you won't do it.
The most bang for the buck are used old 10 speed road bikes. Drop bars are very very good, I have four bikes, three have dropbars (one actually got TT bars too..). The fourth have a moustache handlebar, like the surly pictured above. I absolutely hate straight or raised bars now, after having discovered the drop bar. Being able to change grip and tuck into the drop during fast descents is brilliant.
Be sure to get a frame with a geometry that fits you, that is imperative. You loose a lot of efficiency by having a to small or big frame. Also make sure the geometry fits the purpose of the bike. There is a lot of difference between a city bike for cruising the odd kilometer and a serious commuting bike used for 30 kms a day. The ladies frame is useless, you loose efficiency and stiffness, and gain weight. Mixte frames (as they are properly called) should only be used on a doctors ordination.
Also, try to get as light and stiff bike you could afford, with derailleur gears, not internal gears. Energy and power efficiency is the key to having fun on a bike. Get a good insurance while you're at it.
My commuting bike is an old miyata road bike (with down tube shifters), with a generator hub, stainless steel mudguards and front rack added. I have yet to find anything to beat this setup. 25 mm tires handles anything from tarmac to gravel and are available with kevlar lining, haven't had a flat in 3 years. Low rolling resistance too.
Applause to Harry, in post 19, for finding and reviving a 3 1/2 year old thread
In answer to Harry, I have no idea about fixed wheel gearing.
An re the OP
No helmet, any lights you like, (I use the mutts nutts Cateye) no yellow vest (false sense of security) and a deterent lock if you must, but you can't beat "secure indoors" even if it's the boiler house
I would add that there is now a ride to work incentive, financial assistance in purchase and tax benefits for those that partake. WELL worth it if is cycling to work is an option and it now is for many many more than realise.
Secondly, a PEDELEC is the commuters dream. Capable of up to 30 miles (each way if charged at work) quicker and cheaper than car or public transport and takes no more effort than a wander to the shops.
To time how long it would take you it does 15MPH every hour, exactly
There are a couple that can do 20MPH, tho' not strictly legal.
great toys ... do exactly what it says on the label
Hi Viz vest is for insurance claim only. You will get hit, you will get knocked off, wear the vest for increased chance of payout.
Drop bars are brillant except were you need to pay attention all the time, so they not so good in cites. You are also losing a couple of advantages, like the ability to cut straight across a park.
Agree that the frame should fit you, but wonder about how much you lose effciency wise? As I said the bikes they use in Holland are amazing to use, and heavy as anything. The diffrence is that you almost never stop moving.
Ok, derailleur gears are best, but reclined bikes use internal, and they the fastest things in pedal power. You lose 30% of your power in them, but gain by being able to maximise your output. I have 18 gears and use 3, in the city. The ones on the wheel could be removed for me.
What about buckled wheels/straighting?
Why can't you cut straight across a park with drop bars? Drop bars and butterfly bars are good when you're all day in the saddle because you need to be able to change the position of your arms and shoulders etc.
The real advantage of derailleur gears are that you can fix them yourself, not really possible with internal hub gears.
No need for me here though.
You have never seen cyclocross I guess? The first serious competitions in down hill were won by a guy with dropbars (and discwheel!). What do you mean by paying attention? I can bike with no hands with no problems. And when I'm on the hoods, I'm very relaxed.
The bikes in holland are basically the same as the standard bike here (kronan are very common in holland for instance). If you have a badly fitted bike you will loose a lot in effiency. Comfort is the key to speed.
Recumbents use derailleurs, at least those I have seen. Usually some XTR or XT group. I use all of my gears. Some more some less. The truth is that most people are very bad cyclists. The body is most efficient with a constant high cadence, choose gears to get the speed you want, or to the strain.
Yeah right, with a two cross patterned 36 spoked wheel there is virtually no chance for that to happen, you've got be very fat and wreckless cyclist for that to happen. I haven't trued my wheels since I built them some odd years back. And not even after some weeks of quite heavy touring on bad roads there were any tendencies of untrueness.
My training and competition bike has 18 spoked and 24 spoked wheels and 19 mm tubulars, haven't been necessary with any truing there either.
For those who want to know more about fixed wheel/ fixed gear/ fixie or whatever you want to call them there are two places I'd recommend
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html
and to discuss them with people who ride them all the time, but be warned they take no prisoners so be prepared to be treated harshly if you ask before searching....
http://www.londonfgss.com/
Handlebars are down to preference. I don't cycle all day so I use TT bars not drops on my road bike and straight on my MTB. My cross when it gets built will probably have some sort of dropped moustache bar. I've noticed that city riders tend very much to go for risers because of the additional visibility.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html
and to discuss them with people who ride them all the time, but be warned they take no prisoners so be prepared to be treated harshly if you ask before searching....
http://www.londonfgss.com/
Handlebars are down to preference. I don't cycle all day so I use TT bars not drops on my road bike and straight on my MTB. My cross when it gets built will probably have some sort of dropped moustache bar. I've noticed that city riders tend very much to go for risers because of the additional visibility.
On drop bars again. As I said, some the first world championships in down hill were won by a guy with drop bars. I finally remembered the name of that guy, John Tomac, he was elected in to the mountain bike hall of fame in '91 and competed both in road racing, XC and down hill, with drop bars on all his bikes (initially).
Note the diswheel! Anyway, after a few years, he converted to riser or flat bar, and stood at the starting line, noting another guy who, in awe of Tomac, used a drop bar. Tomac said to him; "that looks kind of dangerous..." Brilliant guy. OT I know, still a fun anecdote.
Back to commuting...
Note the diswheel! Anyway, after a few years, he converted to riser or flat bar, and stood at the starting line, noting another guy who, in awe of Tomac, used a drop bar. Tomac said to him; "that looks kind of dangerous..." Brilliant guy. OT I know, still a fun anecdote.
Back to commuting...
1/ Personally I don't wear a helmet. Don't like them. I like the feel of the wind in my hair.
2/ If you're cycling around London I woldn't have thought you'd need lights - the place is lit up enough as it is! Whatever lights you do get make sure they have quick releases so all you have to do is pop them out rather than unscrew the light bracket when you want to take them off.
3/ Horse for courses on locks. I prefer a flexible lock that I can wrap around the handlebar stem when not in use. Don't like those rigid D-lock ones myself.
4/ No idea. Never ridden a folding bike and have no idea which is best.
And best of luck with the Bike 2 Work thing. It's a fantastic idea and deserves to be successful.
2/ If you're cycling around London I woldn't have thought you'd need lights - the place is lit up enough as it is! Whatever lights you do get make sure they have quick releases so all you have to do is pop them out rather than unscrew the light bracket when you want to take them off.
3/ Horse for courses on locks. I prefer a flexible lock that I can wrap around the handlebar stem when not in use. Don't like those rigid D-lock ones myself.
4/ No idea. Never ridden a folding bike and have no idea which is best.
And best of luck with the Bike 2 Work thing. It's a fantastic idea and deserves to be successful.
Applause to Harry, in post 19, for finding and reviving a 3 1/2 year old thread
Oh yeah. Doh!
Helmet every time, who care what you look like? Who cares if it looks cool? Who cares if it’s a faf to carry? Don’t wear one and it will the ones who you leave behind when you are dead, and that is if you are lucky. If you are not so lucky it will be the ones caring for you as you slumber in a PVS.
:notworthy
Applause to Harry, in post 19, for finding and reviving a 3 1/2 year old thread
The golden rule for cyclists should be the same for our threads - be seen!
and claim back the word BIKE from the motocyclists, who have stolen it from us!
:AR15firin Must be nice. Here I want one of those yellow flashing lights, the repairers use on motorways, and that is in the day time. At night, I want a steel shell!
Never seen them use drops. All of my early cycling was with drops, then I started using mountain bikes. My old bike had a short bar, with 90 degree hand grips, and a U shaped bar in the centre was great. Really want to replace it.
I find the hood really comfortable, it is the sudden stop of the road that hurts.
The bikes almost all of them, I saw were these road/mountain style with a covered chain, and three internal gears. Amazing to ride, for someone with bike skills, especially with their roads.
I must fail into that, because I stay in highest almost all the time. That said it is start stop riding here on the roads so might explain it. All the recumbents builds I have seen use the internals.
Interesting, my racer wheels were buckled by the wind it seemed at times. My mountain wheels are better but still with our roads/traffic they still get done. Drains are my favorite!
