Custom Bushcraft knife - Advice please

[Daniel]

Hi all,

I'm in the market for a new bushcraft knife and am thinking about the specifications I would like, and wanted to ask you all for your advice/thoughts.

I once had a Stewart Marsh Bushcraft knife, which is essentially a clone of the Woodlore. I love this design however it was unfortunately too large for me. Therefore, I have decided on the same design, but with some minor changes:

1. Steel thickness: I want the same specifications with regard to tool steel type, grind, etc, but am rethinking the thickness.

• I am thinking of having 3mm thickness rather than 4mm, to make the knife lighter. Would there be any disadvantages to having the steel thinner?
• What is the advantages of having a tapered tang? and would this affect the strength of the knife?

2. Length: My previous knife was 110mm handle and 110mm blade, which was far too large. I've measured the breadth of my hand, which is 90mm, so am thinking about a 95mm handle and 95mm blade.

• Any advice on blade/handle length in relation to hand size and performance?

3. Handle: Antler

• Is there any disadvantages of using antler for handle scales?
• Is there any difference in the antler from different deer?

4. Spacers: I like the look of spacers, they seem to add some definition to the handle. However:

• Is there any purpose for spacers apart from appearance?
• Is there any disadvantages/advantages of having spacers?
• Is there any quality difference in the material used?

Cheers everyone, looking forward to hearing your thoughts!!

Dan

 

[alecf]

I'll try and answer what I can, but if anyone disagrees with me then they are probably right!

1) Thinner steel will make it slightly weaker, but you shouldn't be doing anything that would break 3mm!
Tapered tang improves the balancing of the blade, so that the weight is further towards the blade tip. Tapered tangs are much more often found on thicker blades though, as on a 3mm blade there will not be much metal to remove.

4) Spacers help to give a more seamless fit of the scales to the tang but I think are usually more of an aesthetic thing =) I can't think of any disadvantages of them.

 

[Celt_Ginger]

1. Steel thickness. 3mm is perfectly adequate for a Bushcraft knife. A Mora knife is less than that yet it is rated as a very fine Bushcraft knife.
2. Handle length. My hand is pretty much the same width as yours. I wouldn't go for a smaller handle than 110mm, but that's my personal preference.
3. I only have one knife with an Antler handle and it's a very small neck knife. I believe that Antler makes a perfectly good handle material. Again, personally, it's not to my taste. I prefer wood.
4. By "Spacers" do you mean coloured liners for a full tang knife or are you refering to a stacked handle found on stick tang knives. If it's liners for a full tang knife, then they are a useful thing to have as they are usually very stable and will help prevent any water ingress between the blade and the handle which may cause rust. They tend not to swell in moist environments.

 

[Shinken]

1. Steel thickness: I want the same specifications with regard to tool steel type, grind, etc, but am rethinking the thickness.

* I am thinking of having 3mm thickness rather than 4mm, to make the knife lighter. Would there be any disadvantages to having the steel thinner?
* What is the advantages of having a tapered tang? and would this affect the strength of the knife?

I dont think you will break the knife even if you went down to 2mm, if the heat treatment is correct of course.

And i don't believe that tapering the tang will effect the strength, as the only area likely to break is where the handle meets the blade which will be thicker.


2. Length: My previous knife was 110mm handle and 110mm blade, which was far too large. I've measured the breadth of my hand, which is 90mm, so am thinking about a 95mm handle and 95mm blade.

* Any advice on blade/handle length in relation to hand size and performance?

I personally would have a handle a bit longer than 5mm longer than my hand, maybe half inch would be better.

Blade length would work well i feel.

But the above is personal i would say


3. Handle: Antler

* Is there any disadvantages of using antler for handle scales?
* Is there any difference in the antler from different deer?

As long as the antler is well selected then no.

Yes different deer as well as different types of deer will have differing quality's of antler.

If you are going to use a competent maker then i'd allow her/him to choose the right piece for the Job


4. Spacers: I like the look of spacers, they seem to add some definition to the handle. However:

* Is there any purpose for spacers apart from appearance?
* Is there any disadvantages/advantages of having spacers?
* Is there any quality difference in the material used?

I don't think they makes very much difference at all, unless your using scales that will corrode the steel but even then the epoxy should protect the steel.

Yes there is a difference in spacers quality, again if the maker is good trust them on it

All above of course is just my opinion/experience

 

[JonathanD]

I think Shinken has pretty much covered it

 

[Daniel]

Thanks Shinken, I think you've answered all my questions there, GREAT help!!

One more thing about the tang though, if I go with 3mm, is there room for tapering here? I'm not sure how tapering is done so not sure of the technical constraints, but could it be tapered by just a millemeter, reducing it to 2mm by the pommel?

Also, any recommendations from anyone on knife makers? My last as I said was by Stewart Marsh, and I have contacted him but as yet not sure how busy he is.

Cheers guys, as ever this forum surpasses all others when advice is needed!
Dan

 

[Siberianfury]

May i throw in a few ideas regarding blade profile mate?

ive experimented with a fair few of them, from woodlores to puukkos and just find that a full spear point like a woodlore is a bit too deep for my liking, it makes it hard to control and turn the blade in the wood. puukko blade styles (straight spine) offer a huge ammount of control but have a weakend tip, the Best profile ive ever used has to be that of the BCNW01 knife,

has a puukko shaped blade until the last " at the point, this increases strength and allows easier skinning and drilling, but keeps the close control accociated with a straight spine.

ATB
Josh

 

[FGYT]

Thanks Shinken, I think you've answered all my questions there, GREAT help!!

One more thing about the tang though, if I go with 3mm, is there room for tapering here? I'm not sure how tapering is done so not sure of the technical constraints, but could it be tapered by just a millemeter, reducing it to 2mm by the pommel?

Also, any recommendations from anyone on knife makers? My last as I said was by Stewart Marsh, and I have contacted him but as yet not sure how busy he is.

Cheers guys, as ever this forum surpasses all others when advice is needed!
Dan

you can taper a 3mm as much as anything else how much depends on why it removes weight and it can add to the look
drilling the tang can remove weight as well but not change the look

ATB

Duncan

 

[Shinken]

As for knife makers, Stuart Mitchell is very very good.

And FGYT too (if he does commissions??)

 

[HillBill]

A tapered tang on a small knife is for nothing more than aesthetics. You do not want a blade heavy knife unless it is for chopping, and then the blade will be long enough that a taper will make it unweildy as in, blade too heavy.

On a knife of 5" or less its better to have the balance point in the hand as this makes for a light blade.

Thinking on it. I do not think a taper will ever be advantageous to a knifes performance. Quite the opposite in fact.

 

[JonathanD]

If you go with dense antler slabs though, you may want to taper it as they can be quite heavy, but HillBill is spot on, a handle heavy knife is much better and safer and yours may be too small for there to be any appreciable difference. The knifemaker will see you right though, and a tapered tang does look nice.