Copper Rivets & Leather

[torc]

I've bought an old military canvas bergen that is in need of repair.
The lower (lumbar) part of the metal frame is badly corroded and the leather attached to it is ruined. I have removed the heavy copper rivets from it, cleaned and repainted the metal and re-fabricating new leather components does not look like a problem.
Is it difficult to put in new rivets or is it better to go to a proper harness maker/saddler?
The copper rivets(3.5-4mm), burrs and a setting tool are available on e-bay.
All advice welcome, thanks....torc.

 

[harryhaller]

Get copper wiring of the right gauge.

Place in a vise and burr one end. Form as round as possible.

Punch, or stab with awl, a small hole. Insert your wire rivet in place.

Turn over and snip rivet fairly close to leather. Place on rivetting surface. (some flat metal surface)

Burr the end by tapping with a small hammer. This serves same purpose as a rivet.

from "The art of making leather cases" by Al Stohlman

The above instructions are for when you have no ready made rivets. If you can get them, then use them with a rivet setter - a tool with a concave depression - and a burr (washer).

He warns against using tubular (i.e. hollow) or split rivets in places which will have to bear stress - which sounds like your case.

Edit: be sure to use right length rivets when using rapid (speedy) rivets - the ones that come already made with separate post and cap parts. Too short and cap willl not hold, too long and post will bend.

 

[Eric_Methven]

How many do you need Torc? I have plenty of rivets and washers. The setting tool is just a lump of metal with a hole and a slight depression in it to spread the head of the rivet into a nice dome shape. The setting tool isn't necessary in your case. All you need is something with a small hole in one end, capable of pushing the washer down over the rivet. A piece of dowel will do, with a small hole drilled in one end.

Cut your leather to shape, use a tad of glue to fix it in position, punch a hole the same size as the rivet right through, pop in the rivet, turn over and place the washer on top of the rivet, put the dowel hole over the rivet and give it a couple of smart taps with a hammer. The washer hole is slightly smaller than the rivet so when you hammer it down the shank it will not move. Next take a pair of pliers and nip off any excess rivet shank leaving an eighth of an inch proud of the washer. Then use your hammer to peen it over the washer making a permanent fix. Do the washer part on the inside of the bergen so all you'll see on the outside is the head of the rivet and not the hammered part.

PM me your address and the number you'll need and I'll pop some rivets and washers in the post.

Eric

 

[Barney]

EDIT

*I see Eric has it covered.

 

[torc]

Thanks for your speedy replies and well detailed instructions lads.
I was talking to a friend last night who has put me in contact with a saddler living near me. She has kindly agreed to show me how to repair the bergen under her supervision. Also thank you Eric for the offer of rivets.
The curious thing about my problem is even though I live in a town surrounded by stables for keeping trekking ponies, carriage horses and privately owned horses, saddlers and harness makers are very thin on the ground.
One owner of a horsey shop near where I live said that this was due to the fact that people treated damaged harness' as disposable. What a waste, eh?
Any way thanks again for your help lads.
Happy trails.....torc.

 

[Eric_Methven]

Glad you got sorted out mate.

Eric