Howdy folks!
Figured I'd post a wee review of this hawk. I unfortunately don't have any nearby trees that need felling, nor do I have any trunks to split so I can't show that! Instead I whacked up a bass guitar body. I've had this bass for ages and it just needs so much work, some of which I'm not able to do and it would be more expensive than the bass was to begin with, so I figured I'd remove the frustration of it lying around.
First of all, the hawk and the guitar.
For an idea of size - it's a wee hawk!
Just to show the edge prior to reviewing. It's not shaving sharp, but sharp, and the edge has been thinned quite a bit since buying it. The straight handle was one of the things that were concerning me, as every axe I've used since I was a child has had the S shape.
What Cold Steel says about the 1055 they use in this hawk:
...that was a bit of a surprise. The body was stood up and hit end on, and the one hit whacked it in two.
A few whacks to show that it does, indeed, cut as well.
Another end-on split to make sure the last wasn't a fluke, and again, it flew through.
I figured I'd try feathers since that seems to be a standard, but to be fair, I've never been able to do good feathersticks with an axe, or any convex for that matter, so it's not a good judge. I doubt it would be that different if I tried it shaving-sharp.
It hammers too... Just wanted to make sure!
A split on the flat. Doesn't sink in too far, but enough to support the weight of the wood when holding the axe, and the weight of the axe when holding the wood, meaning you could do another swing using the weight of the wood to drive the axe home - either by dropping the axe poll-down on the ground, or for smaller bits of wood, just swinging the axe as normal with the bit of wood stuck to it. That said, a twist broke the wood off.
And a few cuts on the flat.
Edge looks the same...
And that's one frustrating bass body gone, and one axe tested. The hawk wins
All in all? A very good, small axe. It does require some work to get it to its best though, I don't think I've thinned the bevel enough. The straight handle wasn't a problem at all, it was just a natural adjustment really. I still can't say if any of the stuff CS said is true about the steel - but I can't argue that it's a good hawk!
Pete
Figured I'd post a wee review of this hawk. I unfortunately don't have any nearby trees that need felling, nor do I have any trunks to split so I can't show that! Instead I whacked up a bass guitar body. I've had this bass for ages and it just needs so much work, some of which I'm not able to do and it would be more expensive than the bass was to begin with, so I figured I'd remove the frustration of it lying around.
First of all, the hawk and the guitar.
For an idea of size - it's a wee hawk!
Just to show the edge prior to reviewing. It's not shaving sharp, but sharp, and the edge has been thinned quite a bit since buying it. The straight handle was one of the things that were concerning me, as every axe I've used since I was a child has had the S shape.
What Cold Steel says about the 1055 they use in this hawk:
No idea if any of that is true but it sounds good eh? Let's see...1055 steel is right on the border between a medium and a high carbon steel, with a carbon content between 0.50%-0.60% and with manganese between 0.60%-0.90% as the only other component. The carbon content and lean alloy make this a shallow hardening steel with a quenched hardness between RC 60-64 depending on exact carbon content. These combination of factors make this one of the toughest steels available because, when quenched, it produces a near saturated lathe martensite with no excess carbides avoiding the brittleness of higher carbon materials. This steel is particularly suited to applications where strength and impact resistance is valued above all other considerations and will produce blades of almost legendary toughness.
...that was a bit of a surprise. The body was stood up and hit end on, and the one hit whacked it in two.
A few whacks to show that it does, indeed, cut as well.
Another end-on split to make sure the last wasn't a fluke, and again, it flew through.
I figured I'd try feathers since that seems to be a standard, but to be fair, I've never been able to do good feathersticks with an axe, or any convex for that matter, so it's not a good judge. I doubt it would be that different if I tried it shaving-sharp.
It hammers too... Just wanted to make sure!
A split on the flat. Doesn't sink in too far, but enough to support the weight of the wood when holding the axe, and the weight of the axe when holding the wood, meaning you could do another swing using the weight of the wood to drive the axe home - either by dropping the axe poll-down on the ground, or for smaller bits of wood, just swinging the axe as normal with the bit of wood stuck to it. That said, a twist broke the wood off.
And a few cuts on the flat.
Edge looks the same...
And that's one frustrating bass body gone, and one axe tested. The hawk wins
All in all? A very good, small axe. It does require some work to get it to its best though, I don't think I've thinned the bevel enough. The straight handle wasn't a problem at all, it was just a natural adjustment really. I still can't say if any of the stuff CS said is true about the steel - but I can't argue that it's a good hawk!
Pete