Close up and macro shots.

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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As this months competition theme is Up close I thought I would explain a few things about close up shot some may not be aware of.

BEWARE macro can be addictive.

What do you need to take close up shots.

Many compact cameras will take a decent close up but you can add a supplementary lens also.

Many ordinary lenses on a DSLR/CSC will take decent close up shots.

You can do well with a camera phone and you can get a supplementary lens for them too.

You can buy a macro lens but they are generally expensive. You can also use a supplementary lens.

What do I use I have 2 macro lenses and now I have a supplementary lens also. I use an Olympus CSC camera used to have Olympus DSLR but dont get hung up camera brands Even Canon and Nikon produce some decent cameras.

So I have a 4/3 fit 35mm Olympus macro lens which has great image quality but boy do you need to get close minimum focus is 14.6cm but note that is from the sensor so the front of the lens is really close
I have a 4/3 fit Sigma 105 f2.8 which I use mostly.
I now have Raynox MCR 250 which will convert many lenses to a macro lens for around £40.

The trouble with Macro is the closer you get the harder it becomes to get the focus accurate and the Depth of Field is just minute for instance maybe 3 mm.

So what can you do with the Raynox on a telephoto zoom lens.

This was taken with my Olympus 40-150mm f3.5-5.6 kit lens (equivalent to 80 -300mm on 35 mm format) this lens has a minimum focus distance on 1.4 meters or 5feet 7 for this shot the focus was probably 30 cm or 1 foot.

Hover-fly by alf.branch, on Flickr

It has to be said though achieving the focus I have here it not easy and auto focus is not going to be much use really.
So what you do is you rack the camera back and forth to get the shot in focus and also take a lot of shots usually as certainly when starting out a success rate of 1 in a 100 shots is not unusual. For instance in insects you really need to get the eyes in focus.

Are people interested in more on the subject.

One of the main issues to getting the best shots is lighting.
 
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brancho

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As I said flash is good to get the light you need but a proper macro flash setup could cost you £1000.

I use an ordinary flash gun with a homemade diffuser.

Here is my old camera with my 35mm lens and flash with basic diffuser the peice of card in front of the camera is showing the focus distance for 1:1 shots.

35 mm Macro and milk bottle diffuser by alf.branch, on Flickr


Here is a shot taken with that set up.

Hover fly by alf.branch, on Flickr
 

brancho

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I also have a Sigma 105 f2.8 as I said a lens which set standards for sharpness.

Here it is with the flash set I use with it is a pringle tube diffuser not my idea btw it is a copy. Again iwth a piece of card to show 1:1 focus

105 mm and pringle diffuser by alf.branch, on Flickr

Here is a shot taken with this set up which show how little can be in focus quite well too

Fly by alf.branch, on Flickr
 

brancho

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Thanks Jonathan.

For a beginner I would recommend a Raynox MCR 150 found HERE You will get very close with one.

The 250 HERE

When you start getting this close it is not easy at all and you will need shutter speeds of 1/200th of a second as a minimum and you may need to up the ISO to be able to hold the camera steady.

Some people use a tripod but setting up a tripod and getting something to be in focus must be time consuming.

Stalking some insects is very difficult indeed but others dont seem to bother about you.
Many hover flies just carry on feeding while you snap away. Bees never stop still long enough for anything close usually. Though shooting in the morning while it is still cool means things move slower so it is easier to stalk the.
 

brancho

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As I have been asked what my set up is here is what I use mainly but remember buying this does not guarantee results.

My Olympus OMD E-M1 with adapter to use 4/3 lenses and a Sigma 105 f2.8 lens in 4/3 fit. I use a nissin Di466 flash with a homemade pringle tube diffuser that I got the idea from another forum for.

EM1 sigma 105 Mk11 by alf.branch, on Flickr

This shot was taken with this set up.

Honey-bee-on-sedum-2 by alf.branch, on Flickr
 

Samon

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Mar 24, 2011
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Wow, fly's look incredible close up!

I have no experience of photography, in fact I only have my tablet device to take shots right now.. Any tips on how to take a picture of a shiny knife outside without it just looking like a white blur? And can any normal indoor lighting be a substitute to natural light, again when shooting shiny stuff?
 

brancho

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This is excellent stuff, thanks for posting it up and if you've got more tips and advice lets have it :D goodjob

I have more planned Tony

Wow, fly's look incredible close up!

I have no experience of photography, in fact I only have my tablet device to take shots right now.. Any tips on how to take a picture of a shiny knife outside without it just looking like a white blur? And can any normal indoor lighting be a substitute to natural light, again when shooting shiny stuff?

For shooting knives and shiny object avoid direct sunlight but an overcast day is good as the clouds act as a diffuser.
On a sunny day in the shade should work OK or inddors where it is bright through the day like a conservatory with no direct sunlight or any bright room again without direct sunflight.

Other than than hang a white sheet up in bright sunlight and use it as a diffuser so you use the light coming through the sheet to light the object.
 
Hi Alf, excellent stuff. I am sure I have seen you post this before but it is great to see it again. :)

I just took some shots today with my Tamron 90mm macro lens, they were taken handheld, and using the 7fps burst mode as I find I rock too much even though I am not. :)

I was wondering if you could give any comments/feedback on them or tips to get it much sharper, especially of the hoverfly?
I have seen a technique called focus stacking but not had much luck with that.

Hoverfly by pandabean, on Flickr

Bob the Snail by pandabean, on Flickr
 

brancho

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Well Andy
I have not shown this stuff one here before.

Do you shoot RAW and is so I suggest to tone down the highlights/whites on the shot

I suggest you start using flash assuming you have a flashgun. Most of my shots are taken with a flashgun and homemade diffuser as shown.

As for focus stacking I had a go yesterday as it happens on a very similar hover fly.

This is not perfect as if you look close enough there is a section of the thorax that is not sharp even though the bits either side are sharp.

Hover-stack by alf.branch, on Flickr

With your Canon 70D you will probably need to get down to f16 or so to get the best Dof. Lighting is really key to all photos and especially in Macro.
 
Well Andy
I have not shown this stuff one here before.

Do you shoot RAW and is so I suggest to tone down the highlights/whites on the shot

I suggest you start using flash assuming you have a flashgun. Most of my shots are taken with a flashgun and homemade diffuser as shown.

As for focus stacking I had a go yesterday as it happens on a very similar hover fly.

This is not perfect as if you look close enough there is a section of the thorax that is not sharp even though the bits either side are sharp.

With your Canon 70D you will probably need to get down to f16 or so to get the best Dof. Lighting is really key to all photos and especially in Macro.

I am sure I have seen your setup before, or you linked to it at some point. :)
I always shoot in raw, never bother with JPG these days. The one thing I am not getting right at the moment is the white balance, it always seems to warm on most of my photos.
I do have a flash gun however it is manual rather than ettl so I would have to adjust the power manually until it was right.

I did have a go at focus stacking but it didn't quite work but I was just pushing the buttons to see how it worked, I would need to spend more time playing with it.
 

brancho

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I am sure I have seen your setup before, or you linked to it at some point. :)
I always shoot in raw, never bother with JPG these days. The one thing I am not getting right at the moment is the white balance, it always seems to warm on most of my photos.
I do have a flash gun however it is manual rather than ettl so I would have to adjust the power manually until it was right.

I did have a go at focus stacking but it didn't quite work but I was just pushing the buttons to see how it worked, I would need to spend more time playing with it.

Andy

It is worth trying the flash in manual if you use aperture priority adjusting the aperture will roughly adjust exposure.
WB should be easily adjusted in a RAW file what software do you use?
 

brancho

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I decided to try a different set up to reduce what I take when I go on holiday.
So I tried my tele kit lens which frankly gets little use at all.


Taken when testing My Olympus 40-150 f4-5.6 R kit lens with 3 Kook a tubes and Raynox M-250 This was shot at 150 mm but has been heavily cropped but this set up gets better than 1:1 Unusually this was shot with AF which worked better than I expected.




Springtail-1 by alf.branch, on Flickr




Here is a full frame shot from this set up with only sharpening added


40-150-mag-test-tubes-+R by alf.branch, on Flickr

This set up looks a bit like this with my kit lens in place of the Sigma 105 f2.8

Macro-rig-2 by alf.branch, on Flickr

Though this is the image area for that set up

105-mag-test-tubes&R by alf.branch, on Flickr
 

nic a char

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Dec 23, 2014
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scotland
Vivitar 283 is a very good flash for macro - especially as it has a manual module - I made up a reflector card, with the manually-flashmeter-checked exposures, F-stops, & distances written on the back of it it = PERFECT EXPOSURE EVERY TIME (essential for pro industrial work with E6 slides)
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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So, you use a full set of extension tubes, a telephoto lens, and a Raynox on the front. Is that right?

That is indeed correct
I mainly use the set up in the shot above though or various combinations of the kit shown depending the size of I am looking for.
 

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