Chain saw

[demographic]

Its worth getting some instruction as they are about the most dangerous tools I use and I do have quite a few pretty dangerous tools to choose from.

But, its not beyond the ken of a fairly average person to pick it up fairly quickly, have you met many forestry workers? Can't be that hard can it.

Now where's that whistling smiley at?

 

[ammo]

I'm really enjoying this thread.
When my Father taught me how to use a knife, I knew that it was sharp and the blade could injure me. I didn't know, techniques, body posture, even different gripping of the handle. Never mind knowledge of the material that i was working on.
For me with zero experience id want some tuition. If you was in the middle of nowhere, I'd say go for it, but be careful, but your not, and with the wealth of experience available to you on hear, you really should get some guidance.
Regards
Kal

 

[stuey]

OP asked if he should even get a chainsaw to cut firewood, if so, which one. Thus, if he is only going to light a fire once a month, there is no need for a chainsaw. if he is going to have a fire 24/7, he should get one, and a good one, along with safety gear and training. How can we be advising him if he should use a chain saw, and which type, if we don't even know how much wood he has to process? And he can employ common sense if he has no clue, common sense would be to get training of some sort surely, he is seeking advise here and not just jumping in, that's common sense too.

So back to topic, how much wood are you planning on cutting, because if its just a small amount, I would stick to a saw and axe.

It seems pretty clear to most of here that the OP is keen to get a chainsaw.

As for your reference to common sense and getting training..... that's what we are all on about...

I took it from your post about common sense that he should just get on with using it and use common sense, which is how it reads to me.

As far as quantities go.... I can't think of anyone out of around 30 folks that I know have a fire that use a bowsaw to process their firewood irrespective whether they are heating their home with it 24/7 or once or twice a week.
Life is too short and bowsaws are sodding hard work. Axes and splitting mauls.. yep... all the time because a mechanical splitter is too expensive for a good one.

Absolutely there are exceptions and I suspect you may be one of the exceptions and fair play to you! Splitting logs is therapeutic... crosscutting with a bowsaw... pain in the backside (and arms, shoulders etc)

Anyway, life is also too short to debate on behalf of someone else whether they should get a chainsaw or not. If they have the money and the inclination then fill yer boots and get one. You won't regret it. Just get shown how to be safe with it and get the ppe.

I'm off to light the fire

Oh, if the OP is anywhere near to Bristol I will happily show you the right way to use it according to current NPTC guidelines.

 

[Tomcoles]

My grandfather was a tree surgeon my father is a tree surgeon, I have been brought up with working around someone with a saw and using one. All I can say is if you don't get professional tuition you WILL get hurt. The trouble is you never get a small injury off a chain saw and your luck if u lose a limb and not your life.
It's not all down to using a saw it's knowing the stress forces going through the wood your cutting so you can anticipate what it will do. And if it's going to throw a saw back at you on full chat.
Most people can pick up a saw and use one. It's not hard to operate one. It's hard to use one without hurting yourself or anyone else.
If you do buy a saw buy stihl. They are the best saws on the market and have been for years.
Just keep safe.

 

[Damascus]

If you don't use PPE when using a chainsaw is like playing Russian roulette, I had the misfortune of attending a weekend countryman, down from London,he was using a chainsaw to cut up pallets hit a few nails and is sadly no longer with us. The trousers would have saved his life, when it kicked back it cuts flesh just as easy as wood.

take the advice, get proper training then decide if you want to use one!

 

[yarrow]

I have just got my first chainsaw a couple of months back. I got a member on here who is a tree surgeon to give me a good long tutorial on how to use it. Truth is it really does get through the logs fast and a bit like aircon in a car I wonder how I did without it. Then it broke down - several times, convincing me that however good it is a large bow saw or cross cut saw is better, they break less and bite at a speed relative to human reactions.

 

[persistent king]

Thanks for all the advice ,a lot to it really , I like the look of the Petrol - Husqvarna 135 and makes sence with the protective gear

 

[dancan]

All new saw come with owners manuals , read it , plenty of good info , lawyers made sure that all the bases are covered in all chapters so the manufacturer is not liable for not giving all instructions for use .
Some of the manufacturers have some pretty good videos as well .
I've got at least 16 saws ranging from 30cc to 99cc so if you hop over this side of the pond I'm sure we could find a few trees to give you a few pointers LOL

 

[Poacher]

Got to say i would never use one without PPE. I joined http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/ and they are a great bunch that will help you a lot with any questions.
Husky all the way with me, the 357xp is my best toy but the 353 i have is tuned perfectly with a modified muffler as well so it sings sweet!
Hope that helps a bit.

 

[Uilleachan]

I think running a fire with wood requires a saw, if one is new to a saw then a basic course is a good place to start. Most people using a chainsaw professionally are required to hold the tickets these days but not all are good teachers. Most saw course instructors have years of hands on experience in the wood and tend to be good instructors teachers.

PPE, helmet and visor, ballistic; breeks (bib and brace) and gloves, plus ear defenders, thats the basic kit, some also go for the boots but steel toecap boots would do provided the breeks cover the ankle and top of the foot, "boot cut" style if you like.

I know quite a few people who've hurt themselves or been hurt by others with either saw or timber, the saw is the least of it really. There's no slight on ones machismo to seek professional advice.

The other advantage of a ticket, other than learning what and how to cut, maintenance etc, is that it opens doors for firewood cutting opportunities on other peoples ground where the ticket is required.

 

[persistent king]

I got this http://www.forestandarb.com/Husqvarna_135_Chainsaw.html for Christmas thanks to the advice on here, I have some steel toe cap boots thick gloves and goggles and have had a bit of a play with it.
im next gonna purchase some ppe, but what do I need ? I'm only cutting fire wood etc , do I need a full face helmet and trousers etc or are those for people who work with them everyday ?

 

[Uilleachan]

I got this http://www.forestandarb.com/Husqvarna_135_Chainsaw.html for Christmas thanks to the advice on here, I have some steel toe cap boots thick gloves and goggles and have had a bit of a play with it.
im next gonna purchase some ppe, but what do I need ? I'm only cutting fire wood etc , do I need a full face helmet and trousers etc or are those for people who work with them everyday ?

As I said in my post above;

"PPE, helmet and visor, ballistic; breeks (bib and brace) and gloves, plus ear defenders, thats the basic kit, some also go for the boots but steel toecap boots would do provided the breeks cover the ankle and top of the foot, "boot cut" style if you like".

The helmet combines; visor and ear defenders, even for occasional cutting it's advisable to wear it, defenders on and visor down, saw dust in the eye is really horrid plus the chain is moving a pace when cutting so there's always the possibility of getting hit with something traveling fast.

Ballistic gloves and trousers are well worth having too. The visor is better than goggles as it can be lifted and lowered readily wearing the gloves, plus it offers more protection to the face, not just from the chain and flying debris, or even a flying chain (Insert the name of your deity here > **** <, forbid), but springing branches etc too.

The helmet bit comes into it's own when actually cutting standing wood, trees often have dead bit's on them, or dead wood (the best fire ready wood, but most unpredictable when felling) always has deader less well attached wood on. A common way to get killed is from falling dead wood, tends to fall just as the wood jolts free as the saw cuts through, the time when ones attention is on the wood thats been cut, rather than on whats about to land in the vicinity of where the cutter is retreating to.

I'm no working chainsaw man, but was fortunate enough to work with a real wood ninja as a lad, my pal and I did the rope work, securing the cutter etc and the labouring, barring climbing to secure turfor wires etc, we were working atop and on roadside cliffs removing trees, Paul the saw did the cutting, we learned a lot from him, everything from how to survive hanging multiple wind blow hardwood disaster situations to 180' douglas firs, 15' at the base that wanted to fall the wrong way.

The first thing Paul did when he approached a tree, without fail; was to look up to check if there was anything obvious that could fall. It was great working with him, we always got first dibbs on the choice sticks.

I think the thing to remember with the PPE is that it's actually well thought out, and with good reason. So, even for occasional use, fire wood etc, I'd be using the PPE.

 

[persistent king]

Cheers mate that's very helpfull was gonna get the helmet for £35 here http://www.forestandarb.com/helmets.html
and the husqvarna gloves for £19 here http://www.forestandarb.com/hand_and_arm.html at least it's a start

 

[Uilleachan]

Cheers mate that's very helpfull was gonna get the helmet for £35 here http://www.forestandarb.com/helmets.html
and the husqvarna gloves for £19 here http://www.forestandarb.com/hand_and_arm.html at least it's a start

Well there's plenty good fire wood around at the moment, no shortage in fact, it's what we call a good fire wood year up here, where theres a wind, there's a way, there's even people that'll pay to have it removed, thats storms for you

Wishing you a shed stuffed to bursting with sticks

 

[v8mule]

Here a offer for you pal I'm also a mate of Carl's and if you want I can arrange to meet up sometime and bring my saw with me for a day using it and getting a feel for things
Ian

 

[persistent king]

Here a offer for you pal I'm also a mate of Carl's and if you want I can arrange to meet up sometime and bring my saw with me for a day using it and getting a feel for things
Ian

That would be great mate cheers

 

[JoshS]

Get a husky (or if you must stihl) those are the two best brands and are reliable, there is nothing more frustrating than a temperamental two stroke. Obviously you aren't' insane and are going to wear a helmet to protect your ears and face, steel toes and chainsaw kevlar trousers (your leather boots won't last two seconds if you brush them with the saw.. and a saw horse will make life much easier.
I have a Husky 240e, it is light, perfect size for hedge work and will tackle much larger hardwoords if you keep it sharp (the secret to good chainsaw work), If you are crosscutting alot of large hardwood go for a more powerful one. The shorter the bar the more power to the chain. If you have never done it before look up kickback and tree felling.

 

[maddave]

It's all been said before but I can't stress how important training and the proper PPE is. As for saws Stihl, Husky, Jonsered are my fave 3 and don't get "bar envy" You can get saws with huge bars and chains but in my opinion if you can't process most timber with a 14" bar than you need to increase your skills rather than the size of the saw.

But please before even starting a saw get someone experienced to show you the ropes. and NEVER scrimp on your safety gear. The chain spins at well over 100mph and if you think you're going to stop it.... You're not. But on a positive note, a good well maintained saw with some knowledge is a wonderful tool to use and will process vast amounts of wood. I can chop communal firewood at the bushmoot for a whole heap of people in no time at all. Have fun

To whet your appetite

Protective equipment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1azmNEK-qvs

How to use a chainsaw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Do5DfkHBhtg

Chainsaw maintenance
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiueedDP_OI

Tree felling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Teb2bQsqx44

 

[sasquatch]

Every man should have a chainsaw...

 

[sandbender]

"...Personally I don't think you should be allowed to buy one without a ticket..."

I have to agree with British Red on that one, a chainsaw can be very dangerous if used incorrectly, a big label saying so on the packaging is as much as the state should require.

There was a thread here from long back which showed someones log/round making bench/jig which would make processing much much easier and safer, that and some goggles and eye protection are worth thinking about.