Hi, long distance hiking is something i do often, hopefully this is of some help. In short i follow the 'pack light, travel far, travel fast, avoid hard shells' ethos combo. Naturally, conventionalists and theorists are going to scowl at
some of this and potentially consider me a liability, but it works very well for a great many in the real world, including myself. I see some heer agree with at least some of it. Apologies for the bulk or repetition, i struggle to word things, plus i don't know how much you already know or have researched (better to be fully comprehensive than leave loose ends).
As a forenote, if you are just getting into it, don't rush out buying stuff. This is more of a reference for as you expand your kit. Start with what you have easily available, test the water. For the most part i have tried to recommend gear that can get you under 10kg pack weight with a couple of days food, on a budget (feels heavier than you might expect, over 10kg is too heavy for me to be comfortable despite being used to backpacking). In some cases i have suggested quality only, some things (sleeping bag, boots) can put people off if sourced cheaply. Some things also sound expensive, but work out cost effective when you consider cost of everyday options and top end gear (layered clothing, for example).
I would suggest planning to setup a base camp on your first walk and find day walks in the area circling around camp; building up to multi-day, roaming, load carrying hikes (since it sounds like you will have to travel to get out and about). I'm going to mention some good fells next to try before the scottish highlands, but before these suggestions moorlands or places like grizedale forest are the best place to test the water and refine kit. Don't go straight into the fells.
The greater langdale valley would be an ideal place for progression, epic scenery, and there is a camp site / pub in the valley. There are some cracking simple walks like pike o blisco, cold pike, crinkle crags, the traverse on bowfell onto the great slab, angle tarn, stickle tarn, and not to be forgotten 'sugar loaf', AKA the pike o stickle with it's neolithic era axe factory caves to view. After a bit of experience, if you get very daring, have good balance and do your research thoroughly there is also the more challenging exposed stuff like jacks rake on pavey arc; but be warned, do your research and think objectively, it might be 'only a grade 1 scramble' in the guide books, but if you fall or trip you ain't living. I only mention this route because you might read the guides and think 'it'll be fine', plus the langdale valley is the kind of place that makes you want to visit again, so it's something to work up to.
Another great valley: wasdale. Similar arrangement. Home to scafell pike (a relatively speaking easy walk in all honesty and the highest place in england, the corridor route over piers gill is the most fun and least used), scafell [not scafell pike] via lords rake (proceed with caution as there is a boulder chocked at the top of the rake still, but it is feels epic and is physically straight forward), great gable (standard route), the mosedale horseshoe (pillar, steeple, red pike) and finally yewbarrow via the great door (a great place to get used to scrambling and find out if you would be ok with more exposed stuff, but only if you are ok with heights and exposure, there is a very steep scramble as you approach red pike, it might unsettle you). Another route is the climbers traverse on great gable, referred to as 'threading the needle'. Another to return for and build up to, it's very exposed and not for everyone, don't take that one lightly either. Kirk fell is another one, but it's a notorious trudge i would avoid it tbh, it's everything bad about hiking in one package albeit easy skill wise.
Both of these valleys make great central hubs for walks. I would be happy to guide you and some of your friends on any of these walks if you wanted a safety net, i live in the lake district and am out all the time anyway.
Keep snow walks in the high fells until you are experienced, the pace is different, the gear is different and the mind set is different.
Anyway, gear. This is just what i prefer for mountain/ high fell walks and scrambles. 'Hike your own hike' and don't feel as if you have to take it all in on the first read, there is a massive amount of technicality to hiking gear (i found the whole thing very overwhelming to begin with); but i spared few details, there is enough info in here to take you anywhere from lowland walks, to some rather serious places.
Water purifier, e.g. SteriPen
Sawyer mini teamed with chlorine tabs, no question. Very versatile, but as with any filtration 'in the field' you will need to focus on risk assessment primarily over relying on the filter (agricultural run off and blue/green algae for example cannot be field filtered, i can provide sources for this if you like). Boiling is practical for camp, but no so much when you need to keep pace in the fells and avoid carrying excess water weight. That sawyer mini is pure gold, cheap as they come, smallest and lightest on the market, good micron rating too. The trade off i believe is a shorter life span than the larger sawyer or the MSR. The pumped filters are heavier and bulkier, but they are faster. Steripens, meh, would be the last thing i would personally carry.
This is a simplified 'best practice guide' to water with this combo: It looks rank, has surface algae or is near a farm? Don't touch it. Suspect virus? Well virus don't live long in water, but add chlorine AFTER using the gravity filter. Suspect bacteria? Use the gravity filter. It looks clean AND is at high altitude or source level and their is no animal faeces? I just drink it as it is, but i'm used to it. In doubt? Move on.
The reason why you should use chlorine tablets after mechanical filtration (sawyer mini) for virus' is because virus' can live within particulate, protecting them from chlorine treatment and boiling. But like i say, virus' are pretty much a non-issue, especially in the UK. Also, with gravity filters be sure to back flush after use with clean water. It is also important to keep 'contaminated bottles' [sawyer reservoir] away from your clean collection bottle and back flushed [thus clean] filter unit (often overlooked).
Hiking poles
Alpkit carbonlite - the best you will get for the money. Very light, great length, they work well.
Weatherproof Coat
Rule #1: layer, don't buy all in one jackets. Rule #2: don't expect to stay completely (or even reasonably) dry in prolonged or wind driven rain in the mountains. Rule #3: block the wind. There are different approaches to layering, this is mine:
The lightest, unlined shell you can find, don't worry about which membrane you choose. Waterproof and breathable is a myth in weather that actually demands a shell. When fabric wets out it doesn't breath (all will wet out if the rain is heavy and constant, any DWR is overwhelmed); pit zips and pocket vents are more important than membrane while hiking if it comes to wearing a hard shell.
Why a light shell and not a winter weight hard shell? It should only be pulled out when rain or wind get's serious, well chosen mid layers will make getting wet by any residual penetration no problem and should deal with all but the heaviest prolonged rain. If you use good base and mid layers, teamed with a pertex windshirt (they are also showerproof), you will also be comfortable even if wet, so a light shell is acceptable and for more packable. If you do get wet, you dry fast with proper venting or no hard shell if you hike fast or naturally 'run warm', even in constant showers. Sounds like bullsh*t but don't knock it till you try it. There is little profit in base layers and wind shirts as they are so basic, plus massive money has been invested in membranes so companies are reluctant to back track. Check out andy kirkpatricks site, there is a lot of nonsense going around about layering systems and shells and this guy knows his stuff, he cuts the cr*p. The following article goes into more detail:
http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/the_best_softshell_in_the_world
This is possibly sounding complicated, it gave me a headache writing it, so i will give an example for 3 season use:
- A quality, tight fitting, light-weight merino base layer (don't skimp on this, it's a key component).
- Next, a snug fitting, thin, polartec powerdry/powergrid fabric mid layer (NOT polartec windpro or powershield pro). Or, if on a strict budget, a very thin, cheap, unlined microfibre fleece. Any of these will work together with your base layer to wick moisture from the body (keeps you cool in hot weather), you get warmth from these garments from the next step if it is windy.
- Next, a vented wind shirt. You get to choose between vented cooling (evaporative heat loss) and wind blocking based insulation (traps the dead air in mid/base garments). The wind shirt is key, making the very most out of minimal insulation and preventing the need to get windproof versions (extra cost and weight, often too warm) of every garment you may want to add for colder climates.
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Of course, if it is a rather warm, still day you will want to remove the mid layer and wind shirt.
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So far you have full potential for breathability for quick drying and comfort as there is no membrane to overwhelm.
- Rain gets crazy, i put on a minimalist, non fancy, hard shell top because i am no longer expecting to dry out, the rain is too heavy at this point.
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Result = faster drying, less layer switching (if any at all), lower cost than conventional layering systems.
An example of expected comfort: Without using a hard shell i was fine on the mosedale horseshoe this sunday in strong winds and moderate to heavy spells of rain (moderate by lake district standards, very wet place here). Temperature varied between around +12C in the valley with no wind chill down to -3/-4C after wind chill at the varying summits. No layers where changed or added while walking although i added a gillet during the stationary lunch break, i was cosy throughout. My friend who relies on his base layer, long sleeved running shirt, membraned fleece and event shell (people use them as a wind break in place of the wind shirt) had to keep stopping and was visibly and vocally uncomfortable.
Snug fitting Patagonia r1 series or a very thin buffalo style top would be a good mid layer to compliment this ethos, as would top quality merino base layers. Mid layer fabrics to note are thin forms of polartec powergrid and polartec powerdry (not heavier windpro or membraned power shield pro, they are counter intuitive to the philosophy). Any vented pertex wind shirt will do. Personally i mate this 'sounds expensive, but actually isn't' setup with a £15 regatta paclite hard shell for emergency and it is more than fit for purpose; it's not strictly speaking vented, but it is zip front and i make do since i barely use it. You should get everything on this list for around £150 +/- in sales.
It is
VERY important to note though: if you walk slow (unlikely with a light pack and proper use of trecking poles) you won't dry yourself out well, in this case a heavier shell has a place unless it is <0C (no liquid precipitation). If you mooch around at summits, or for camp, your likely gonna want to take an extra mid layer like a patagonia r3 or gillet in conjunction with the 'true soft shell, avoid hard shell' approach.
If you really need to save money here, use synthetic cloths you already own and get a cheap minimalist, preferably vented shell. It won't be to comfortable but it will work against hypothermia. I would avoid poly cotton, it dries too slowly IMHO, even if it dries quicker than some other things cotton absorbs water.
Fun fact: the people you will see stopping/starting to switch layers, looking too hot / too cold and generally uncomfortable are nearly always relying on top end membraned fleece / membraned hard faced soft shell (polartec shield pro etc) mid layers and using top end membraned shells like gortex proshell or event; yet they will look at you as if your crazy as you pass them by at a fast pace in the wind and rain, without your shell, in skimpy mid layers and pertex top in total comfort. Some will even warn you about the weather you are already aware of. *shrugs* Don't waste your money. Membraned layers do work, but at greater expense on: comfort, faff factor and the bank.
Walking Boots
Light, and don't presume you need boots for what you expect to do. Weight on the feet is worse than weight on the back (energy conservation, weight on the back travels laterally, your feet zig zag up and down). For most typical fair weather day hiking, including some 'intense' scrambles like jacks rake, i currently use trail runners and proceed with caution. Dexterity is key in technical footware most of the time, you typically trade it off for support. How to explain it better, boots can be clumsy and trigger a sprain situation, if your coordination is good and the trail allows (most common fell walks), trail runners are fine and very light on the feet; you will be less prone to encountering a sprain situation to begin with and full height boots are not impervious to sprains/breaks. Not for everyone though. I would check out the salomon trail runners for light load days if this sounds like your thing, they are widely accepted as the best trail runners out there comfort/weight wise and well priced.
Boots, if you can only afford one pair of footware get a boot; more versatile and a generally safer bet. If carrying load, feeling clumsy/tired, walking in slippery conditions or running down scree i currently use salomon quest 4d 2 gtx boots (£125 in the current sales, comfiest full height boot around imho, they also come in womens fit). They are very light for a full height boot and very quick to dry due to breathability. Salomons also come with a no nonsense 2 yr warranty, for £125 in the sales (now) that's a garunteed quality, lightweight, waterproof, comfortable, female fit boot with no break in period at a maximum of £62.50 a year, less if they last longer than the 2yr warranty period; but try before you buy with the socks you will be using (fit), make sure your toes won't touch the ends on an incline. The salomons typically run half a size larger if you can't try them before you buy, and come in half sizes. The lowers are nubuck leather outers over a synthetic inner, apply g-wax to deter scuffs on the nubuck; the uppers are a hard wearing cordura style fabric.
Leather would be about the worst choice for multi day or long distance hikes (especially 'sherpa' leather, less so with nubuck): slow to dry, heavy, typically stiffer, higher maintenance and frankly no more durable than a quality synthetic like ballistic nylon. Very much out dated for hiking, but they look the part and traditionalists trust them. My friend uses 'lightweight' top of the range nubuck leather meindl bhutan's (against my humble advice) and against the advice of every trained shop keeper he spoke to the day he bought them. Over half a kilo heavier for a pair, his still feet hurt over distance (15+ miles) after 7-8 long distance walks, they dry slowly in my opinion, cost more, they barely flex and are already scuffed from scree despite a wax coating. The initial break in almost brought him to tears, he bled and he suffered. They will probably out last mine though due to the depth of the tread, but maybe not as they are a softer compound (the vibram soles are grippier than my hiking grade contragrip). He confidently says he made a good purchase, though i suspect this is in comparison to his previous old, heavy leather berghaus boots that fell to pieces after years of use; he also trusts leather as he it's what he is used to.
Whatever you choose, you can tweak the fit and to some degree the comfort level with after market insoles, such as the well reputed superfeet orange or greens. Well reputed in hiking circles, but im fine with standard flat, foam insoles.
For deep winter only, non climbing use, use a c1 rated (full flex walking crampons) with a b1 rated, soft compound (mountaineering contragrip or vibram sole) boot. Something like the salomon x-alp mtn gtx is hard to beat, if you don't mind the extra warmth and quicker tread wear they will do all year round but are better as a winter only boot. Fully crampon compatible with cupped c1 crampons, well insulated, around £130 in current sales. That is cheap for a good winter boot, and a good boot is worth having. They also make an expensive carbon chassis model with inbuilt neoprene gaiters, but that is overkill. To note, i just use thicker outer socks in my quests for winter, they also rated so take a c1crampon despite the lack of crampon rating as the flex is right, but likely only strapped crampons. Is use 'camp' strapped crampons with em, not sure which model they are heirlooms, more on them below.
Karrimor stuff is cheap cr*p, their trail runners fall to bits after a few intensive walks/scrambles, even the £80+ stuff. Definitely avoid d30 footware too, it's so soft it tears and gets sharp rocks stuck in it on scrambles. Merrels are decent boots, but wear fast. Some people love mammut's, i don't like the brand across the board, but that's me. Some cheaper boots are decent, but, better boots like the salomons (or similar quality brands like scarpa/meindl) flex well lengthways, but not much width ways. This makes 'edging' more stable, important for trickier scrambles and the likes. You won't get that from a cheap boot, not in the same way.
Neck Warmer
none, take a mid weight balaclava. If it's windy enough to need a buff your face is going to be getting blasted by cold winds too (not fun, but makes you feel alive for sure).
Tent
Try a tarp tent (minimalist tent, no poles [use your hiking poles]) or bivvi and tarp. MUCH lighter and smaller, tents are over rated, comparatively expensive and bulky (even the smaller ones).
Check these tarp tents:
http://www.trekkertent.com/home/home/3-stealth.html (they are named 3 season, but very usable for a 4 season minimalist).
Bivvi bags: Alpkit hunka, get the large if you use down insulation.
Hammocks: Pretty much useless in the fells unless you intend to drop to the tree line every night, if there even are suitably strong and deep rooted tree's nearby. Even if you plan to be near woods on walks things don't always work out as planned, been there, wasn't fun. If you are doing a simple over nighter though and intend to drop into a valley you know for a fact has suitable tree's, then they are great.
Sleeping Bag (I found an 0.8lb one, but it's pushing £250! Cheaper ones, around £40, weigh almost 6lbs! Do I go for weight or cost?)
Weight, no doubts. Do not underestimate the importance of pack weight if you can afford it. Sleeping bags are one of the 'big three' weight savers, and you will notice. This is the one thing you want to spend on over anything else.
I don't like bags though so i can't recommend one, i prefer top hammock/hiking quilt's, they synergise well with the matt suggestions to follow. Draughts are a non issue if you get the correct fit and quilts, they can clip to a ground matt if you are concerned though. Compressed insulation under your back is pointless. If you are set on a bag get a womens one.
Snugpack and DD make a bulky, relatively top quilt that isn't all that warm but is cheap. UK hammocks make down top quilt's to order (get overstuff if you choose this). Enlightened equipment make a light, low bulk synthetic for wet climates (import only). Katabatic are the cream of the crop, but highly expensive and complete overkill. You will find em fairly cheap used on hammock forums and here from time to time, but for ground use you will need wider than you would in a hammock, wider again if you are a side sleeper. If you are a large, ground dwelling side sleeper you may find returns diminished, but they will still be noticeably present over a full bag.
Personally, i made my own from pertex and climashield apex with a zipped footbox, it was rather easy (if time consuming) but not much cheaper.
Camel Bag 2-3L
Heavy and no more reliable than a platy system in reality, I would either use a platy or dromlite with hose, possibly even an osprey. I actually use the hydromedary, but had to import from japan at great cost (it's as good as they get though). They are good, they keep water on tap and close to you back where the weight should be, but a bottle mounted on a shoulder strap, with say a mammut bottle holder or even shock cord makes a good partner for juice / energy drinks. Small powerade bottles hold onto shoulder straps well with shock cord.
Leakproof water bottle 1L
Platy, can be used as a hot water bottle too. Light enough to carry multiple spares and take up no space.
Sleeping Mat
Half length, not full. You just don't need to double the bulk and weight for your legs, you can use a small sit pad or your bag for your feet. I use the self inflating multimat expedition compact 38 (£30 on ebay), warmer than i could ever need and incredibly comfortable as it is thicker than usual matts and has 'differntial density' around the torso, a 25mm would be fine though. These self inflatables take the optional extra thermarest chair kits, so double up as a fiddly but comfortable camp chair that works until you are drunk (then you fall over backwards constantly which is amusing for others). The thermarest chair kits are far better than the multimat ones btw.
If you want lighter still at a big comfort and bulk penalty try a thick thermarest foam pad and cut it to length, avoid the skinny pound shop things they are sh*te, no comfort at all.
You can get blow up matts like the neo-air that are lighter than self inflating for a given length, but they need to be thicker for warmth as they have no open cell foam inside to trap air, so if you use a half length one they can hurt the knees due to the height difference. The full lengths neo airs, while heavier and more expensive than most half length self inflators, are lighter than full length self inflaters and leagues ahead in comfort if you don't sleep well while camping; they need a 'pump bag' but are one of the best lightweight, full length matts you can get. I would consider them close to 'glamping kit' because i am dead set that full length is a waste; if maximum comfort is a big issue for you though, consider one.
Socks
Merino liner, mid weight outer (synth or wool). Any hiking brand that has a proper toe box (no seam at the front). Merino dries slower, but your feet are gonna sweat so you might as well have the comfort of wool liner socks. Sealskins make cheap ones, but they are not great. You will get what you pay for.
Waterproof trousers
Debatable that you need them. Quick dry wind proof pants are fine even in heavy rain. If you want the security go as light as possible really. ip legs are pretty much essential. I never use em, but i keep some packlite's in the bag in case wind gets serious. It's the wind that gets you, not moisture.
Generic walking trousers
Anything quick dry and semi windproof. Removable legs are very useful as overheating is common, but can rip on tough scrambles. Anything from mountain warehouse to fjallraven will do fine.
Gaiters
No point in them with quick dry pants (even without tbh) unless your in thick snow and you want to stop clumping on your boots. If you are gonna come across that and do need them anything will do, go light, you will hardly use em tbh.
Crampons (It can be icy or snowy in Scotland in March... maybe MicroSpikes will work better... maybe I don't need anything?)
I suggest micro spikes or any c1 crampon that is suitable for your chosen boots for heavy snow or ice on high fells; microspikes will do for any lowland stuff. For c2/c3 crampons (semi/full rigid climbing crampons [c3 are for proper ice climbing where you are going to 'toe in' constantly, not typical winter hikes]) you need stiff b2/b3 rated boots, too stiff for everyday walking tbh, probably not best for you right now unless your sights are set high. Use the wrong type for your boot and they will pop off due to differences in flex.
-Removable points come with a weight penalty.
-Aluminium points wear down rather quickly.
-Strap style crampons are fiddly with gloves, but work on a broader range of boots, in that they will fit on some boots that have no crampon rating due to a lack of appropriate mount points for 'cups' (most quality hiking boots); you still have to match up the flexiblity though.
Head lamp
Get a good petzl, when it's dark you need the lumens and efficiency.
Multi tool/knife
Small SAK, i have all sorts of knives now and always take the smallest on long distance unless it is a bushcraft based trip, then i take a 4" fixed blade and saw.
Firestarter/lighter
Bic/clipper lighter and a fire steel.
Compass
Get a decent one (can't recommend a brand, had the same one for years and the name is scratched off). Points to note with a compass:
- The primary port of call should be prior research and common sense. A compass to me is a failsafe, but by no means do i mean not to carry or use one. There are some folk who will pull them out every time they pull out a map, even if the visibility is perfect and there are obvious 'landmarks' to get a bearing off without a compass. What would those people do if they lost their compass?
- Near certain areas depending on the type of rock (bowfell being a great example) readings can be skewed due to relatively high magnetism. The fells around the greater langdale valley in particular have quite a lot of the offending rock. This can be enough to potentially become a problem in the kind of weather a compass is really needed, like fog, especially if you are not following an established trail. I have not personally had it become a big problem, but the potential is there.
Extra's, some situational:
- If you are in crampon territory, and not a proper climber, a mid length straight shaft ice axe is a good idea for reach and stability (acts a hiking pole on steep incline, or as intended, a pick), more useful than the crampons tbh. If you are going to get into ice climbing and using c2/c3 crampons an ergonomic handle is better than straight, as found on the petzl's.
- A phone and small power bank for longer trips.
- A good whistle.
- Good quick dry gloves and a minimalist shell mitten. I layer my gloves: rab meco liner > sealskins merino liner (extra warmth, not always used) > m14 climbing gloves [petzl's are good too] (scrambling/wind break/tooling) > waterproof mitten shell (heavy wind/rain break). For deeper snowy winter i would look for something like rab cascades or baltoro's in place of an m14 style. You can find similar on a budget from surplus stores, if you are not tooling a simple wool mitt and shell would work well. Condor also do a budget 'tactical' glove that would substitute a milder weather tooling glove. Yes, layering like this kind of contradicts what i said earlier about membraned layers, but your hands feel the cold more than they feel the heat and don't really need full breathability.
- A hat like a lowe mountain cap that will fit over your balaclava and not blow off in the wind.
- Dried foods (unless its a short [sub 15 mile] day hike or specifically a comfort camp).
- A small flare and first aid kit can be a good idea.
- If you don't have camping gear a SOL bivvi can be useful in heavy snow, but if your layering is well thought out and you have contingencies/knowledge of the area it is not needed in most situations.
- A watch if you don't have a smartphone.
- A small amount of nylon fabric tape AND duct tape for gear repairs on multi day hikes can be a good idea.
- Money, notes and some change.
Just to reiterate, spend the money on good boots and sleeping bag, the rest can be picked up cheap or 'quality used', especially from ebay/forums/surplus (and still be relied upon).
I'm a notorious 'over packer'. Haaaalp.
