camping, Kuksa fire, bacon grease lamp disaster, birch carving supplies

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
camping, Kuksa fire, bacon grease lamp disaster, birch carving supplies
Another beautiful weekend family camping. When opportunity granted itself, I whittled away with my knife on the maple kuksa which I resigned to keep in a zip lok with a wet sponge when not working. I'm doing this based on recommendation I received after my post inquiring about the cause of cracks I was observing. I learned that they were related to the excessively quick drying of the wood and differential shrink between the pith wood at the core of the branch I used and the outer rings. I also learned this is common with woods worked green such as my maple. The bag/sponge technique slows the seasoning and yes I saw an immediate effect on the cracks; including the closing of the largest crack that started forming. I learned from several wise commenters that there were ways to deal with the cracks, so not to be discouraged into stopping the project. No matter what happened I would learn from it so I decided to carry on with the maple project! One piece of advice that stuck out was this recommended way of harvesting wood to minimize likelihood of cracking:

1. Take a log of roughly twice the diameter that you wish to be the height of your future kuksa.
2. Split the log down the middle.
3. Lay the split face down.
4. Draw the Kuksa front view as shown in the sketch below to begin roughing!
unytatug.jpg


Note: I did ask why not turn the cup to make better use of the natural curve of the wood? I got a convincing, detailed answer basically saying that the left and right sides are going to want to pull in downwards and outwards from the middle, resulting in cracking or at least warping.

I asked my dad if he had any split wood in the pile from this years efforts (for next winter's firewood) that would have come from an 8"+ diameter birch. He said he'd have a look and bring some by on Monday if he found something.

My only "rules" for the Kuksa project was no power tools. Otherwise I'd use whatever I could get my hands on. As I hung out at camp, I decided to see what I could accomplish with fire towards my goal of hollowing out the rough shape. My attention was drawn to the Weber firestarter cubes (poor mans version of UST's "Wetfire" tinder), as I was not ready to make the camp fire for the evening. I scraped off a pile and light it afire inside a small hole I carved out with the pocket knife. It burned steady for quite some time, but alas merely browned the edges.
e5a3yzes.jpg

Later that evening, with a true campfire going and a glowing bed of coals underneath, I pursued the effort in a more traditional manner. I scooped a nice coal out and dropped it into the small starting cavity I'd made. Blowing on the coal I quickly picked up the gist of the technique.
e5ydu7yd.jpg

Not too much oxygen so as to cause the burst of flame.
6y6ype5e.jpg

I could rotate the cup and direct the force of the oxygen towards the area I wished to "carve". I was very excited to see the green wood slowly turning to glowing coal itself in the focus areas.
zuvuvyhe.jpg

When necessary, I stopped blowing on an area and it quickly "cooled" down. In this manner, I was able to make great progress during a relaxing evening under the Maine stars, with my family by the campfire. Here is the cup, ready for a charcoal scraping session.
ydu6a2y3.jpg

This being the last campfire until we return in a couple weeks, I'll likely turn back to the pocket knife and for the first time on this project, a wood chisel when I return home.

The next morning's bacon grease was collected and hardened in one of my wife's glassware bowls. She asked me to go outside and scrape out the grease into a container for disposal. I decided to grab a few napkins to twist into makeshife wicks. My bright idea was to try to make a little "upcycle" project lamp. I was delighted to see the effectiveness and snapped this photo as my wife peered out to chastize me "your going to ruin my bowl". "It will be fine", I returned.
hemehura.jpg

Literally a second later "pop" and the glass dish's side popped off. Within 30 seconds, all the rest except the bottom cracked off. "Honey, sorry, you were right".
unu8u6a6.jpg

To round out the weekend and kickoff the next week, I woke to a planned visit from my parents and a truck full of split birch from my dad. Varying heights of the half moon pieces from 3.5-5", all around a foot long. Should last me a while!
avapy7e7.jpg


As an added bonus, they gave me a Plumb axe head picked up at a yard sale for 50 cents!
u6apymyb.jpg



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Chiseller

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 5, 2011
6,176
3
West Riding
Grand ending, I still tie my boot/trainer laces in a method you showed us......never heard "your lace is undone mate " since then. I share the knot at every opportunity.

Looking forad to the finished kuksa .
Skol

Nailed Horbury Bridge rapids .....wooooooo
 

Macaroon

A bemused & bewildered
Jan 5, 2013
7,241
385
74
SE Wales
Nice result with the hollowing by coals, I've never tried it but I think I'm about to! Sounds like a nice family trip, thanks for the post :)
 

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
I spoke to soon in my last post about the cracks being under control. I was tapping away with the chisel last night and suddenly -crack- ! Upon inspection it was almost clean through the bowl :
nu8uremy.jpg

jutamegu.jpg

y4ysehu5.jpg

A little pull and I broke it clean in two. Right through the pith!
vabuzaru.jpg

qy6avata.jpg

There is lots of surface area for glue so I'm going to try Titebond III and move on to start another from my birch!




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Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
Not to be deterred, I drew up a 1:1 scale plan, elevation and front view. I was free handing the first one but figured since I'm starting over I'd do it real nice. I have the PDF which can be printed to 11x17 if anyone wants a copy. You can't see the linework only the general shape in these photos due to camera exposure.
unemudad.jpg

u4aha3a7.jpg

uby6edy9.jpg



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Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
Taking more care this time to mark center lines all the way around to help me keep the work symmetrical and the sides/bottom square. This birch is butter compared to the Maple. I'm still using the ziplock and sponge to keep the project from drying too quickly. I wish I had a hook knife for the bowl. Trade ? Anyone?
e7u9uqyr.jpg



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Two Socks

Settler
Jan 27, 2011
750
0
Norway
The new one is coming along nicely! Shame that the other one cracked, but it was to be expected. I look forward to see how this new one turns out. I like that you have made a plan to follow.
 

Harmony

Tenderfoot
May 15, 2008
79
0
87
Spokane, Washington USA
I boil the wood in brine until it sinks in the pan, then boil 10 minutes more. Remove wood from pan and dry at room temperature for two days.

I am not a carver, so have never tried carving wile it is damp.

The salt in the cells makes the wood hygroscopic and it will always draw moisture.

I have thin slices of walnut branch boiled in brine five years ago, still no splitting.

Google “hygroscopic”, you will find very good explanations of how this works.

Harmony
 

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
Focused on roughing out the top view but didn't want all the extra work in the handle are so I roughed out the handle (side view) too. Photos also show the zip lok and sponge to slow drying.
enyqynet.jpg

ysa5e3a4.jpg



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shutupthepunx

Tenderfoot
Sep 21, 2013
70
1
outer cosmos
im no wood genuis, but from what i heard you dont want to be using the core of the wood for making anything really.

my understanding is that the center point of a log, tree, branch, whatever, is the weekest and most likely to crack. like in your pictures. use a much larger diamater of wood (if available) to get around this. maybe someone could let me know if this is incorrect?
 

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