bush saws:fixed or folding?

[scruff]

Yep, I cut those teeth myself

:notworthy

The plans are for a carpenters type frame saw but you'll see they can be easily adapted to fit a bow saw blade.

I've sent an email to your web site address.

Hope to see some of those blacksmith folders on there soon

Good luck with the new saw and course.

 

[falcon]

I take the point about reduction of the cutting edge due to the angle of the frame at the pointed end......but I can only reiterate my practical experience with driftwood of varying diameters last April. The increased length of cutting stroke made for more efficient use of energy and also meant that wood of larger diameter could be cut than with the lapplander......there's definitely a place for these saws in what we do. Oh....and I still love the lapplander

 

[Chance]

I can't disagree: folding frame for firewood, pruning saw for tree surgery.

It's of debatable relevance to bushcraft, because it's a shame to cut green wood, but I favour a folding pruning saw over a fixed bow saw for almost all trimming cuts that are beyond safe chainsaw reach (speaking as an amateur).

 

[leon-b]

folding blades are safer when not in use as the blade does not show and is locked so it cant cut you, also folding saws are more compact and take up less room

leon

 

[Chance]

My folding frame bow saw conceals/protects two blades when stowed (the second is a hacksaw).

 

[scruff]

......there's definitely a place for these saws in what we do. Oh....and I still love the lapplander

I can't disagree: folding frame for firewood, pruning saw for tree surgery.

Have to agree that the bow saw is the daddy when it comes to serious cutting, rather than 'pruning' cuts.

I do carry a bow saw blade in my billy. My mate calls it the bear trap. It gives me the willy's when I'm bending it back up after using it

 

[Dave Budd]

I do carry a bow saw blade in my billy. My mate calls it the bear trap. It gives me the willy's when I'm bending it back up after using it

try coiling up a 166" bandsaw blade!

Thanks for the framesaw pattern. It's pretty much what I came up with myself, but not got around to making. Guess there are only so many ways of skinning that particular cat! One day I might...

I'm going to make some more of the blacksmiths folders too. Hopefully next week. I made the blade for one yesterday and I was going to make the handle today, but having just draw out the handles on 3 pairs of tongs, I'm Knackered!

 

[baggins]

I have a couple of saws, a laplander and a silky. I do find the silky cuts better as it does have a longer blade but the laplander is better in dead wood. It's all down to personal choice at the end of the day.

 

[Dave Budd]

I have a couple of saws, a laplander and a silky. I do find the silky cuts better as it does have a longer blade but the laplander is better in dead wood. It's all down to personal choice at the end of the day.

I don't suppose you could point me in the direction of some close up shots of the tooth patterns? I'm trying to find something suitable for a folding saw I've got on the go. The type I used on teh saw above works great on green wood, but not so well on seasoned, wheras a standard handsaw is the otherway round.

 

[longshot]

this is the saw that I normally use when out and about.

the blade is about 13" long. It's based on an Roman example, with teeth cut in the fasion of a 19th century pruning saw (basically the same as a SAK saw). That does mean that it's better on green wood than seasoned timber, but I now know for the next saw that I make It's nice and light and with a simple wooden guard on the blade it doesn't interfere with anything in my bag.

you made this? how did you cut the teeth?

very courious as i make my onw knives.

dean

 

[Toddy]

I've got one of those hand chainsaws and it's just too much work for most things. The Laplander is a good all round useful tool, which I really like though I frequently just carry the take apart lightweight Japanese saw. The only advantage is that it's reallly lightweight.
Cheers,
Toddy

 

[Dave Budd]

you made this? how did you cut the teeth?

very courious as i make my onw knives.

dean

a triangular file, patience and accuracy. Oh and a couple of practice bits of metal, you will cock it up! I do!

I mark the spacing of the teeth with a gizmo that keeps sets a nick in teh blade at consistant distances. Then usinv a triangular file ( 8") I cut the teeth. That tooth pattern at 10tpi probably takes about 13/4 hour per foot, if you're quick.

Then I heat treat it,, being careful not to overheat the teeth. fit and shape the handle. Then recut the teeth with a fine saw sharpening file (these are usually 6" long and double tapered)

I'm working on some more saws at the moment, afterall It's such a useful tool.

 

[laurens ch]

I think i prefer a folding saw like the bacho or my wilkinson sword because i find them far easier to cut wood thats not attached to somthing and fairly small.