Braided Leather knife lanyard

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Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
As some of you may know I am an amateur leather braider. I generally like my knives to have a short leash of some sort depending on its style and purpose.

This is short 6-plait kangaroo braid mini-tutorial. Nothing really radically different than the long neck cord that I recently did for my Ingram SLK, except this is a single diamond braid which is a bit more tedious to do than the 4-seam work of the neck cord. Every strand goes under one over one on both sides. For a short lanyard this is a bit more artful than the quicker 4-seam work.

Getting started. This is a Loveless Designed, Lone Wolf City Knife (a real nice knife BTW). Three ~12 inch 1/8" handcut kangaroo strings were cut, greased and stretched. I use a lard/soap grease I made following instructions from David Morgan's book, but saddle soap also works. Some sort of grease makes braiding easier and more uniform, but the strings can be braided dry if you take care to pull them up.

Schwert_CityKnife1.jpg


Beauty eh?

Schwert_CityKnife2.jpg


Thread the 3 strings, flesh side all together through the lanyard hole and begin one course of flat 6-plait braid. This takes some adjusting to get the strings to nicely come around the butt of the knife. I usually fool around here for quite a while trying out different starting patterns to make the transition as smooth as possible.

Schwert_CityKnife3.jpg


Immediately go into 6-plait single diamond braid. Outmost string on right taken BEHIND the braid, under the top string, over the middle string, under the bottom string. Repeat by bringing the left top string BEHIND the braid and under/over/under. Braid for a bit then, go back and with a blunt awl start at the knife butt and tighten and neaten all the strings.

You can clip the braid or I just let it unwind a bit while I am trying to get the beginning just the way I want it. Strings should all pull up tight and uniform when you are done sorting. This photo was taken just before I went back to tighten and straighten the whole thing. While doing this I just leave the braid hanging and it tends to unbraid for a round or two. My goal at this point, not far from the knife butt is to get a solid round braid with as good a start as possible.

Then just braid as long as you want, keeping it tight and uniform as you go. The real secret is to start solid and then keep it solid. Going back into the braid can be done, but is best avoided.

This was done for about 2" for this little knife.

Schwert_CityKnife4.jpg


Clip or lash the braid and begin the first step of termination. This is a wall knot. Each strand is flipped over its neighbor. This is the Girl Scout braid many learned in 4 strings as kids. Make sure all is set and uniform for the next step.

Schwert_CityKnife5.jpg


Crown this wall knot by taking each of the strings around its neighbors leg and then up into the middle of the knot. Looks like a crown eh?

Schwert_CityKnife6.jpg


Slowly and carefully tighten each of the strings all the way back into the braid. Make sure all the braid is tight and then carefully pull the whole thing snug....not too tight just snug.

This one in the image is ready for the awl final tightning. As I tighten I roll the braid and knot quickly between my hands....this evens the braid, reduces stress in certain areas and usually loosens the knot. Keep working it until it is solid and neat.

Schwert_CityKnife7.jpg


I use a wax based finish coat (Filson wax, a beeswax/oil mix) and final roll, stretch, roll, squeeze, then trim the fringe. Done

Schwert_CityKnife8.jpg
 

ESpy

Settler
Aug 28, 2003
925
57
53
Hampshire
www.britishblades.com
Great stuff - unfortunately, you've just cost me money. Gave in and bought the book :-D Now to wait the Amazon "8-9 days".

Having absent-mindedly cut about 10m of 1/16" lace, I thought I'd try a 4 strand in the round... I've got about 3' done so far!

I've seen something around about bevelling laces - does that help the pattern lie a bit flatter, and are those depicted bevelled?
 

Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
These braids are not pared (beveled). If you pare the corners the braid will end up being a bit more round, but it is too much of a pain for me to do and the end result (IMO) not worth the effort. I have spoiled much lace in my time trying to pare. Short snips like this one I could do, but a long lace it is too risky for me to go slicing off corners.

David Morgan would totally and completely disagree however. So my recommendation is to give it a go and see if it makes the sort of difference you can see or feel and then choose.

Of course, David can pare lace almost as quick as I can grease it so experience counts for a load.....and my experience level with paring is not increasing.

You will not be sorry for the money spent on the book....best one out there for learning IMO. And if the bug bites you the money will really start flowing for leather, some tools.....everthing gets a lanyard :roll:
 

tenbears10

Native
Oct 31, 2003
1,220
0
xxxx
Peter

I've asked the same question about triming the leather. It looks good even without doing it but it looks professional if you cut the corners off. You can either trim the top 2 corners or 2 opposite ones depending on the style of braid. I haven't bothered and it looks good. I don't think Randy has bevelled the ones in the pics either.

Bill
 

ESpy

Settler
Aug 28, 2003
925
57
53
Hampshire
www.britishblades.com
Tools schmools... I have to stay away from the Tandy catalogue - too many things to try. I started out by buying the hand stitching kit, and I've upgraded most of the tools that were supplied. I'd also forgotten I still had a reel of bevelled lace sat in the bottom of the leathwork toolbox. The great thing about leatherwork is you don't actually *need* many tools to get going - the hand stitching kit and a Stanley knife will get most things done. Of course, groovers, lace cutters, rivet sets (hmph - one for every different rivet, it feels like) and so on can get expensive.

I really like the idea of putting braids onto lanyard holes, particularly with pouch sheathed knives. Now I need to get the hang of the knots.
 

bushwacker bob

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 22, 2003
3,824
17
STRANGEUS PLACEUS
great tutorial! had to try it so I cut my thong from a thin bit of leather and produced a 6 string flat plat,now ive got to try the braiding but i'll have to buy some braiding thong as I'm sure it will be easier with uniform strings :lol:
 

Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
Ed said:
Thats an excellent tutorial Schwert :biggthump That would make a good piece for the main website ;-)

Ed

Please feel free to add this to the main site or let me know how to assist. I can rework as needed to make it more suitable. It would be good to add the books etc.

Braiding really does require minimal kit, but like all my "projects" getting just the right stuff is all part of the fun.

An awl, some strings, some grease, and a decent sharp knife are about the only needs. I find a clamp of some sort gives me the ability to braid in all sorts of places but I would be perfectly happy with that as the complete kit.

Another book worth considering for tons of knots and other fancy stuff is:

Bruce Grant's "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding"

1209_detail.jpg


This is about $30 and I would definately recommend looking in your library first as it is a comprehensive but very difficult book.

Morgan's books and this are my only reference books and will provide me a lifetime of things to marvel at.

This is what I would like to be able to do......This is my David Morgan 10 foot kangaroo bullwhip.....amazing workmanship.

Hawkthree.jpg
 

Buckshot

Mod
Mod
Jan 19, 2004
6,466
349
Oxford
Thanks Schwert, :You_Rock_ this is great and well timed.

I've been wondering what to do about my neck sheath.
I get fed up wtih it when it falls forward as I bend down.

I think perhaps if I do the 8 braid through the bottom hole and crown that off it will be able to be threaded under my belt which should be enough to stop my knife falling forward but easy enough to move round/ pull out from under the belt when I want acces to my knife.

I practiced with some string over the weekend, after a couple of goes my braiding was looking less like a pigs dinner and more passable.

Now I just need to get hold of some decent leather, any ideas for a UK based dealer ?

Cheer

Mark
 

ESpy

Settler
Aug 28, 2003
925
57
53
Hampshire
www.britishblades.com
I now have my copy of David Morgan's book... Eek, I think.

I note that his braiding soap is lard, water and soap - and yet only a few paragraphs later, he cautions against using animal fats as they will go rancid. Huh?

As for using saddle soap as an alternative, do you thin it down with water or just use it as is?
 

Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
I have no good recommendations for leather in the UK, but tenbears is doing some work now and may have posted his source for machine cut leather.

As for David's animal fat note, I will have to take a look at that but my guess he is refering to leather treatments used after braiding, as I know he uses the lard/soap braiding grease. I made my batch in 2000 and I can tell you it is not rancid at all. My only problem is I put it in a tin coffee can and the can rusted all around the edges....I just scoop grease from the center of the can and Bob's Your Uncle.

Good luck all......I have an old tutorial over at the old CKD (cannot remember the new name)...It is essentially the same lanyard as the new one at JM's but with a different view...and using 2 color braid. (There are also a couple of mistakes in the tutorial....as there is one in Part 1 of the new one....minor, but bothers me, I may edit it later).

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11384&highlight=braid

I would just use saddle soap as is. If a bit too dry add just a touch of water. Saddle soap tends to dry a bit fast for use as braiding soap but just add some more as you go if you find the lace sort of not wanting to snug up with each tug. The lard/soap is really an excellent mix. I do think it makes the leather turn a red/brown over time though (see whip photo above for final color). Probably due to the high pH of the ivory combined with normal oxidation. Very pleasing to my eye and I have many braided articles that are just as good now as when I finished them many years ago.
 

Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
Buckshot,

I purposely braided my neck cord tails extra long to tuck under my belt. This is a very good way of keeping a neck knife under control. My design has two tails that I can spread apart and tuck, this keeps the sheath close, flat and it cannot swing.

Adding one tail to the bottom of the sheath should work nearly or as well. I think this sort of design makes up for some neck knife carry problems.

I normally carry this under my vest and tuck the tails about 10 cm to the side of my gig line.

Schwert_SLKdone5.jpg


The other nice thing about the tucked tail is that a snug knife can be drawn one-handed from the sheath as the tension from the lower tails assists. Overall my long tails with flat braid behind the neck seems to have solved many of the problems I found with neck carry.
 

ESpy

Settler
Aug 28, 2003
925
57
53
Hampshire
www.britishblades.com
CKDs new name is KnifeNetworks;

Pearce-Tandy in Northampton are now selling roo skins at £8.50/sq ft (sure I posted this somewhere before? Possibly BB, and possibly misread the last time), they also sell pre-bevelled lace;

I've just completed project 1 from David Morgan's book, the oh-so-complicated key lanyard in 4 strand with back braiding :D I'm not sure the drying time of the saddle soap was a problem for this project, but anything larger could be. Oh, and I used Leather Shene rather than shellac (the shame, the shame)
 

Schwert

Settler
Apr 30, 2004
796
1
Seattle WA USA
I have never done the shellac treatment at the end...Sure to get me banished from braiding school (if anti-paring has not already), but I like the feel of the leather without the shellac.

The whole problem with posting these braiding tutorials and getting more folks trying it is that it will soon be common knowledge that it is dead simple...glad project one went well, but once you are rolling it just seems to work. Adding strings to the set is just about as simple for the main braid, I find the terminations a bit more of a challenge though.

Excellent, and glad you posted a place for materials.
 

ESpy

Settler
Aug 28, 2003
925
57
53
Hampshire
www.britishblades.com
Well, the 4 strand I find fairly easy, I suspect that I'll find the 8 strand somewhat more intricate. Also, I suspect a lot of the work is in the transitions - it is all well and good being able to braid the stuff, but starting & stopping are kind of important. A bit like flying in that sense.
 

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