Bowdrill - string tensioning

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Leon

Full Member
Sep 14, 2003
145
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Lincolnshire
Apologies if this falls into the 'teaching Grannie to suck eggs' category.
Just wondered if anyone else ties their bowdrill sting with an adjustable loop, of the sort used for guy lines, at one end?
Getting the right tension on the string used to be a real bore, especially when experimenting with different spindles…continual re-tying etc.
Then this summer while experimenting with different knots for guy lines, I came across one in Ray Mears Bushcraft book (bottom corner of p159) that was perfect - adjustable yet absolutely no slip under strain. I guess its one that most seasoned campers know well.
A light bulb went on…. :shock:
Applying this to the bowdrill has been a huge success; for different size spindles, simply slide the not back or forth slightly. I have not experienced any slippage even during the most frantic bowing session.
No re-tying needed since :o):
 
i usually make my bow about 2ft and then if you average a thumb thickness spindle you can grip the bow cord up into the bow to tighten the cord to prevent slippage if you know what i mean :?: :naughty:
 
One way to do it is to cut a hole in one end of the bow and pass your line through it. Then tie a stopper knot that can be easily tied and untied to adjust your length.

bowend1b.jpg
 
Gripping down on the bow string does work well for minor adjustments in the throws of bowing. I was more thinking about the problem of experimenting with different width spindles where the extra slack/tightness was more than could be compensated for in this way.
Hoodoo,
I too have drilled a hole at the end of the bow (borrowed the idea from Mors Kochanski's book) but didn't know how to tie that knot - my Knots pulled too tight to undo easily - so have being used that end as fixed. I'll be trying it now though!! :uu:
The adjustable loop is worth a try tough, it does provide quick, easy and accurate adjustment.
 
I was taught to fix the bow string at the none held end of the bow by any method you wish ( drilled hole, loop and notch, fixed knot) and at the hand held end use a clove hitch, quick and easy to adjust and will not slip under use. Any minor adjustment to tension is made up by pressure on the bowstring with your fingers.
 
Hoodoo said:
One way to do it is to cut a hole in one end of the bow and pass your line through it. Then tie a stopper knot that can be easily tied and untied to adjust your length.

bowend1b.jpg
Good tip there Hoodoo. :wink: I hadn't thought of that. Thanks. :biggthump
 
If you don't want to tie a knot in the end, you can also slip the rope through the hole, then wrap it around and tie it off in a kind of modifed clove hitch. It works fine that way. You can also pass it through and then tie it off on the standing part using a taut line hitch. This will make it a little easier to make adjustments.
 
One thought on the string itself,I have used a flat leather strand instead of round cordage as it gripped the spindle's better and slipped a lot less, my bow is a straight piece of bamboo slat with holes at each end to receive the leather thong. There is eenough slack in the thong to allow the spindle to be entwined
and bend the bow enough for clearance. Works well for me.
just a thought
 
This is slightly off-topic, but I vaguely remember being taught a slip-knot that could continually tighten if you pull on one part (i.e shorten the bow-string) but releases if you pull it the other way. Does anyone know this one? Might be good for ensuring that the tightness of the bow can be maintained at all times... time to go scour knot-books/websites I think. :shock:
 
Hoodoo said:
You can also pass it through and then tie it off on the standing part using a taut line hitch. This will make it a little easier to make adjustments.
The knot that I mentioned originally is a variation of the taught line hitch. It seems that set up is similar to the one I tried and failed :roll: to describe accurately in the begining, only with the hitch at the opposite end.
 

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