bow strengthen tip

[NWNWNWNWNWNWNW]

Hi guys newbie here , Just attributing some knowledge tips which is old news for many but maybe be off some help to others . we all know native american indians used sinew on the back of their bows to strengthen & add to power so here`s an alternative k.
1. plasterer scrim ( open weave backing ) 2. pvu glue 3. string . clingfilm
first better to have vice grip for easy handling of materials , put bow in with back facing up (none string side). run pvu glue from tip to tip on back only. be generous with glue, rub & flatten out with fingers. cut three lengths of scrim length of bow (tip to tip ) put on layers on top of each other (you want the glue to penetrate through all layers. next lace with string from tip to tip 2-3 inches of gaps to hold scrim in place. next from one end of bow wrap tightly clingfilm around to hold scrim tighly down & work clingfilm to oppasite end of bow.
leave at least 48 hrs to dry. Then take off clingfilm & trim scrim loose ends off .
their you have it a now improved bow now take out side draw target to try out with the wife holding the target for you to practise on - joking buy her a box off choc s tell her you love her for letting you have this new toy

 

[ateallthepies]

Yes seen this done on bows before and is a cheap easy backing option. Personally I am a naturals man and try to stay away from artificial bow materials(exception being modern glues) but each to their own .

Steve.

 

[NWNWNWNWNWNWNW]

Steve i would love to see this done naturally never mind learn it ! be ossom but im only starting to learn the basics of sinew i.e what parts leg tendons & back bone where it is longer & then also just trying to make & form string & tying in added lenghts to make longer . how you do it , what the process bud ?

 

[ateallthepies]

Hi Northern,

Well sinewing a bow is easy, it's getting and processing the sinew that is the hard part!

I have in the past bought both backstrap and leg white tail deer tendons from the USA through ebay. I found the leg tendons better for backing whereas the backstrap is better for string making and using for thread. You need a lot more back than leg tendons to cover a bows back.

In the UK you can only generally get red deer leg tendons. Highland horn sells them in packs of four. As they are a shorter length than ones bought from overseas you will need at least four packs to cover a short to medium bow.

Once you get your tendons now is the hard part! You will need to pound on those amber colour leg tendons with a hammer on a hard surface. I use a small anvil I got from Axminster tools. This starts to separate the inner core of long fibres and also breaks open the outer tougher layer which you throw away. You have to keep pounding until you can start to pull apart the fibres by hand and use a pair of pliers for the stubborn bits. You end up with white fibres of different lengths and are about a mm or so in diameter. Put fibres of the same length into bundles. Longer lengths are the goal but the shorter lengths are good as well. I chuck bits under 2 inches into my scrap pile to use for glue making.

A day later after lots of hammering and with sore fingers you will have enough fibre bundles to back a bow. Always make up a bit more as you don't want to be short later. Now separate those big bundles into smaller bundles with about 10-15 fibres in each. A tip is to put these small bundles within the pages of magazines to avoid tangles and keep them seperate. These are what you dip into the glue and stick to the bow.

Now you need to get some animal glue also known as hide glue. There are several ways to do this. You can either buy ready made hide glue granules from wood work suppliers or artists shops or use some gelatine from the supermarket or make it yourself. I make mine from dog chews that are made from cow rawhide. You have to boil up the rawhide for hours and release the collagen gelatine gel which you then dry into granules to use later.

Now you have the sinew and glue you are ready to back your degreased half tillered bow.

You will have your glue granules and water in a double boiler which is just a bowl within a pan of water over the heat.You melt the granules and water together into a syrup consistency no hotter than your fingers can stand being dunked in.
You take some extra watery glue and spread some on the bows back. This is called 'sizing' and makes sure the glue soaks into the wood. Do not miss this step. Then get your sinew bundles and dip them in the warm glue, squeezed out the excess and apply to the bow as straight and tangle free as possible. You are aiming to arrange the first bundle line down the middle of the bow with the ends overlapping slightly. Then arrange the outer lines so the joins are staggered to the middle line. The best analogy is like the pattern in a brick wall. You dont want a weak spot across the bow where all the joins line up.

You will need several of these complete layers of sinew and can either wait between layers or put it all on in one session. After finishing it needs to dry for a month or two after which you can do the final tillering.

My explanation is not very good and I have missed lots out of the process but two good books that fully explain the process are either 'The traditional bowyers bible' volume 1 or 'Bows and arrows of the native americans' by Jim Hamm.

Also look for vids on youtube like this one that show the process...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHXjj7Xcof8

Have fun!!

Steve.

 

[NWNWNWNWNWNWNW]

steve i understood every line their & thank you very much for that introduction to primitive bow backing. you also answered a question that was in my head , i only knew the back bone was better for thread as you said but didnt even think to think what was strongest being the leg now you`v told me . also only heard in stories about the hide glue , now i know how its made . always wanted to know this . your thread is excellent thanks for this introduction.
i did not imagine the amount off work involved to this process , i knew about slinging the sinew over a branch to dry , then pounding & seperating with a needle in to small like thread strips but thats where it stops as im on over load with other learning skills which gave me no time to research or go into or id end up with too much information taking on which = o. It all goes blank taking too much on at once.
now i know how it must be a magical feeling to have done all this by one`s self , this makes it worth it to see the finsihed product . iv heard about that book bowyers bible from bow makers swearing its the best book out their & il definetly be owning one, one day . i just learned by watching other skilled bow makers making them online & practiced on a few which are no way profesional but would do the job of hunting if need be. Going to watch your vid im sure il enjoy & ace thread steve NW