Blade restoration - Help please!

[tedw]

Help, please, from you knife experts . I've just got the woodlore clone in the picture, made by “Walker, England” from evilbay, at what I think was a good price .

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Hmm - the Insert Image button didn't work. Here's the URL:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f336/TedW/Walkerknife.jpg

Can anyone tell me what the wood is - some sort of maple? Most importantly, though, I need advice on restoring the blade to shaving sharpness. The scandi bevel that was originally there on the 01 tool steel blade has gone; as you might be able to tell, there’s now a secondary bevel that I am laboriously trying to grind down by hand on my coarse oilstone . Is there a better way? Will the £5-00 sharpening kit do the business, or am I heading for disappointment?

Finally, it’s meant to be a user, so I’m not too worried about the fine scratches on the blade but is there a good, easy, non-damaging way for a non-handyman like me to polish those out?

Thanks,

Ted W

 

[spamel]

Well, you're not using a grinding wheel so at least it hasn't gone horribly wrong!! The oilstone will do the job, but it may take a while. At least it will keep you fit!

The other option, and this may get a bit expensive, is to get some coarse japanese waterstones. They'll remove metal quite quickly. On the other hand, maybe wet and dry would do the job just as well, although I have no experience trying to remove vast quantities of metal with it.

Good luck with it!

 

[Bisamratte]

I put a proper scandi grind on my mora using wet and dry (It had a slight hollow grind when I got it) , it was allot quicker than my water stone.

hope this helps

Andy

 

[ArkAngel]

Having a Woodie myself and making a bit of a horlicks of sharpening it at first (until i found this site ).

I put a secondry bevel on mine too. It was a bit of work but i used a waterstone (about 800 grit) to take the grind back to the way it should be.
Then i would imagine the £5 kit would take over then (never used it, have 1200 and 6000grit waterstones to finish the job).

As for scratches i use a leather strop with a polishing compound (i think it was British Red that gave me the link) which puts a mirror finish on a finely sharpened blade in no time. The blade is a bit small in the picture but i think you should get the idea.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k98/ArkAngel_06/Allitems1.jpg

 

[Longstrider]

If you do decide to try W+D be careful of what you have beneath it. For a Scandi grind you want something FLAT and hard under the paper (like a piece of glass)NOT a mouse mat! The mouse mat idea is great for convexed edges but will do you no favours at all if you ar etrying to get an even, flat, grind back onto your blade.

 

[OldJimbo]

Carefully rubbing the bevels on a large abrasive surface, such as emery paper on a counter top will put those bevels into shape in a hurry. Rubbing on cardboard with green buffing compound will restore the shine after some work with fine (or worn down) emery paper.

 

[tedw]

Many thanks, chaps - out with the W&D!

And that is one shiny woody!!!

Ted W

:You_Rock_