Blackening/bluing a knife blade

[Large Sack]

Hi All

Now I know I will probably get lynched...but I'm an honest sort of bloke, and I must profess a liking for a slightly more 'tacticool' feel to my kit...[pauses for carved bone arrowheads to pierce flesh] ...As such I was wondering if anyone might give me some tips/pointers as to how I might best re-blacken a knife blade or, if this isn't feasible, then perhaps bluing a blade. I have looked at many a You Tube video that deal with Pattina and while I think this is pretty cool, it's not exactly what I'm after.

I should also state that while I'm a fairly artistic individual...I am a total dullard when it comes to using tools/chemicals/rubber gloves/gauntlets/wire/bolts/hammer etc...ie, whatever is said needs to be ijit proof.

I have done a little research into bluing, but it seems to involve a shed load of chemicals and very little info on quantities...knowing my luck, I would mix something up, put in my blade and it would come out later resembling something that the Alien had gobbed on!

All/any info gratefully received

ATB
Sack

 

[jojo]

You could try using a blowtorch, heat the blade to red and put in into a vat of old engine oil, that should get it nicely black.....


Or alternatively, get some gun bluing stuff from, well, a gun shop! I think you only need one small kit, not shed load of stuff.Also could try etching it with some vinegar, I wrap some tissue paper around the blade, pour some vinegar on it to soak it and leave it overnight. You can get a fairly even grey patina that way.

 

[Large Sack]

Thanks Jojo...I have a project in mind, I'll be sure to let you know how I get on
Cheers
Sack

 

[British Red]

No harm in using cold gun blue to blue a blade. It will do just what it says. Make it blue. It imparts no rust protection or whatever, but if you want a matt, blue blade, buy a cold blue kit for a gun, and follow the instructions. It'll be blued.

Red (who has restored guns this way)

 

[Large Sack]

Thanks Red, From what Jojo said I thought I'd have a bash at this first and see how it turned out. The other thought I had was sand blasting for a matt/satin finish, but I think it will be the bluing to start off with.

Thanks again
Sack

 

[santaman2000]

If you sand blast it and then blue it you will indeed get a finish very close to a dark parkerized one.

 

[Large Sack]

If you sand blast it and then blue it you will indeed get a finish very close to a dark parkerized one.

OK then...let's try it that way round

Thanks

 

[lannyman8]

you know i was just thinking of doing this the other day for my next blade...

hope all goes well...

 

[sandbender]

Use a very fine grade metal sandpaper on the blade, apply some gun blue, sand again, apply blue again, repeat until you are happy with the result.

"...I have done a little research into bluing, but it seems to involve a shed load of chemicals and very little info on quantities..."

Things may be different these days but in the eighties I could buy gun blue in a tube (like toothpaste), wipe it on, leave it for a period and then wipe it off.

 

[Large Sack]

Use a very fine grade metal sandpaper on the blade, apply some gun blue, sand again, apply blue again, repeat until you are happy with the result.



Things may be different these days but in the eighties I could buy gun blue in a tube (like toothpaste), wipe it on, leave it for a period and then wipe it off.

You can still buy the cold blue stuff...I just wondered if things had moved on a bit since I last used it ...in...er ..about 1985. But I had used it to touch up previously blued metal, didn't know if it could be used on bare, untreated metal. But thanks to you guys I shall be giving it a go. Thanks again Sandbender and cheers Lannyman I will let you know how I get on.

Sack

 

[santaman2000]

Use a very fine grade metal sandpaper on the blade, apply some gun blue, sand again, apply blue again, repeat until you are happy with the result...

Same principle if you sand blast and then blue; use a very fine grit as you don't really want too coarse of a texture.

 

[Longstrider]

If you heat it to red hot you'll ruin the temper of the blade. Cold Blue is the way to go.

 

[IanM]

I have used Delway Metalblak Cream for many years now, I use it when refurbishing guns and it gives a deep jet black protective finish.

Metalblak

It is easy to use but gives a better finish on high carbon steels, it won't touch stainless. Just buy the cream and forget about the whole blacking kit.

It is important to ensure that the item is utterly clean, no grease, no fingerprints. I scrub with steel wool wetted by a hot water and washing detergent paste. Rinse with boiling water, then wipe on the Metalblak whilst the metal is still as hot as possible. A thin sheen of Ballistol oil and the job is done.

 

[Large Sack]

I have used Delway Metalblak Cream for many years now, I use it when refurbishing guns and it gives a deep jet black protective finish.

Metalblak

It is easy to use but gives a better finish on high carbon steels, it won't touch stainless. Just buy the cream and forget about the whole blacking kit.

It is important to ensure that the item is utterly clean, no grease, no fingerprints. I scrub with steel wool wetted by a hot water and washing detergent paste. Rinse with boiling water, then wipe on the Metalblak whilst the metal is still as hot as possible. A thin sheen of Ballistol oil and the job is done.

LOL...cat...pigeons

That sounds mighty good too Ian. Any idea of cost, the site doesn't mention prices?

Cheers
Sack

 

[IanM]

Yes it does.

http://www.metalblak.co.uk/products

P.S. I don't get the cat/pigeons reference.

 

[Large Sack]

Yes it does.

http://www.metalblak.co.uk/products

P.S. I don't get the cat/pigeons reference.

Marvellous, thanks...I'm obviously not as sharp eyed as I once was.

Cat/Pigeons (cat amongst the pigeons)...I was definitely going down the gun blue route...until you threw the metalblak into the arena

I really like the sound of that stuff so I may have to get gun blue and metalblak and compare results.

Thanks again
Sack

 

[IanM]

Ahh I see.

The finish is greatly affected by the underlying metal surface finish. Spend time polishing and de-maring the knife surface before bluing or blacking. Either finish will enhance any defect, scratches or swirls. If you want a matt finish make sure the finish is evenly matt first. If you don't like what you have it is easy enough to start again, just wastes time.

 

[Large Sack]

Ahh I see.

The finish is greatly affected by the underlying metal surface finish. Spend time polishing and de-maring the knife surface before bluing or blacking. Either finish will enhance any defect, scratches or swirls. If you want a matt finish make sure the finish is evenly matt first. If you don't like what you have it is easy enough to start again, just wastes time.

Hi Ian, just one last question; bearing in mind that the knife is carbon steel with badly damaged teflon style coating which will have to be removed first, can you suggest the best method for obtaining an overall even matt finish to the bare steel prior to blue/blacking?

 

[British Red]

A fine sand blast or just rub with fine emery paper should do it.

 

[IanM]

I use very fine emery cloth, not paper, and water to remove any old finish then finer and finer worn 'flour' grades of sandpaper dry. Finally steel wool ending with 0000 grade for a shine or drop the steel wool for a matt finish. As you go down through the grades stop when the roughness suits you, perhaps 400 grit emery cloth will be enough for a knife.