Birch tar collection TUTORIAL

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jon r

Native
Apr 7, 2006
1,197
9
34
England, midlands
www.jonsbushcraft.com
Hello! You might have noticed i hav'nt been on the forum in quite a while but i thought i'd come back and say hello. Also brought this article with me for you all.

Apologies to dial-up users because the pics are pretty big... sorry


Collecting Birch Tar

Article by Jonathan Ridgeon


Most bushcrafters know that Birch bark is fantastic for fire lighting because of all the oil concealed within it. This tutorial guides you through the process of extracting that tar from the bark. The tar is extremely useful for all kinds of bushcraft jobs, like when you want to secure arrow heads to shafts for example. The uses of birch tar are endless and it's an amazing material!

To start off you are going to need some kind metal container, a large sweet tin, biscuit tin or empty paint can is ideal.

tar1.jpg


Make a whole in the bottom of the tin in the centre.

tar2.jpg


Collect your bark from dead birch trees, there is no need to go stripping fresh bark! You can take advantage of that bark that is too tatty to use for crafts. I got all the bark i needed from just one small fallen tree. Tear the bark into strips as high as the height of the tin, then begin rolling them up into a bundle.
Note: Dead birch trees are a common home to nesting woodpeckers, mice and other creatures, do not destroy their habitat!

tar3.jpg


You will notice that once the bark is rolled up tightly it wants to spring back out again, so every so often i tie a piece of string around the bark to make life easier.

tar13.jpg


Keep rolling on pieces of bark onto your bundle until it is as wide as the tin. When you put the bark into the tin you can always shove more bark into the areas that are not tightly packed.
If the bark was not rolled up and packed into the tin in this way the tar would not escape from the bark as easily. Notice that the bark is the same way up in the tin as on a tree.

tar4.jpg


Now its time to prepare to extract! At your fire site dig a small whole in the ground and insert another small metal container, i find a baked bean can is best, then fill in the gaps around the can with earth.

tar5.jpg


The whole in the large tin needs to go directly above this can. Make sure the rim of the baked bean can and the base of the tin are flush together. You can move more earth up and around the sides of your large tin to prevent it from moving out of alignment.

tar6.jpg


Now light a fire on top of the tin. When the bark inside the tin is heated to extreme temperatures it releases the tar as a thick vapour. This vapour will go down through the whole and distil in the baked bean can underneath. The process takes a few hours for all of the tar to extract properly. For this time you should keep the fire well maintained.

tar7.jpg


After a few hours have passed and the fire has nearly burnt out, all that will be left in the tin will be the charred bark. Lift the tin off to reveal the tar in the baked bean can. My tin full of bark typically collects just a little less than half a can of tar.
Note: Do not remove the tin from its position while the fire is still burning around it as the vapours are very flammable and catch alight easily.

tar8.jpg


The tar will be very runny at this stage and is good to use as a preservative for wood and I've heard it has several medicinal properties. If you want to make your tar into glue then keep on reading...

tar10.jpg


You will need to reduce the tar down by simmering it next to the fire. It doesn't take a lot of heat to get this stuff bubbling so don't get it too close to the fire otherwise it will set on fire, if this does happen don't worry, just move the can away from the embers and it should go out again

tar9.jpg


Obviously you can't touch the can whilst it is that hot so i find a stick with a small split in the end is a very handy tool. Push the stick onto the rim of the can so that rim is held in the middle of the split.
Carry on reducing the tar down. Dip the end of a small stick into the tar every so often and let it cool, you can test how tacky the tar is with your fingers. It might take another few hours until the tar begins to set on the end of the dip stick. When the tar does start to set take the can away from the fire and let it cool for a while. You can now tell for sure whether it sets hard enough.

tar11.jpg


You can scrape out the tar from the can while it is still warm and gooey, and then mould it onto the end of a stick. When you need to use some of the tar simply hold your tar loaded stick over a flame for a second or two until it goes gooey again and then apply it quickly to the surfaces you want to stick. It sets very fast so you've got to be quick.

tar12.jpg


Have fun!
More bushcraft articles just like this one at www.bushcraft.ridgeonnet.com
 

Nagual

Native
Jun 5, 2007
1,963
0
Argyll
Thank you very much! Ever since seeing this on the tele I wondered exactly how it was produced small scale. Good too see it is very simple indeed.


Cheers, Nag.
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
Nice one Jon, exactly as I understood it to work too. there is a massive downed birch in the local woods that will get chavved sooner or later, so I may as well make use of it soon! ratbag and myself dragged the lime bark out of the river today which has produced fairly good retted fibres, so this could be our next project!
 

steveo

Forager
May 10, 2005
113
0
Earth
Great stuff Jon , I have a load of birch bark and after reading this i feel inspired to have a go.,cheers :)
 

HDF

Feb 24, 2008
8
0
38
Bath Somerset
Wow thanks! I saw Ray Mears do this on telly (I think it was in Belaraus)and I alwayswanted a bit more info on the subject. I'll just look for a fallen birch in the wood's or down the field.
Once again thanks!
 

badgeringtim

Nomad
May 26, 2008
480
0
cambridge
Great tutorial!
I had heard of extracting tar from old dead standing wood - pine (i think from mr Mears) and never liked the idea of people rushing off to dig up or fell all the standing dead wood with all the species that inhabit it.
This method nicely avoids that, however do you know if there is any tar in the birch itself? or if smaller limbs could be used (might need a larger scale) in the same method?
 

fishy1

Banned
Nov 29, 2007
792
0
sneck
Great tutorial!
I had heard of extracting tar from old dead standing wood - pine (i think from mr Mears) and never liked the idea of people rushing off to dig up or fell all the standing dead wood with all the species that inhabit it.
This method nicely avoids that, however do you know if there is any tar in the birch itself? or if smaller limbs could be used (might need a larger scale) in the same method?

The birch tar is all in the bark, none worth extracting in the wood of birch.

You can extract the tar from pine, the roots are very good for this as they have lots to stop them rotting. You can turn over old dead pine stumps and the'll have good roots still as they are preserved. Awesome for firelighting too. Dead standing pines you can use also, especially those that have snapped off, as the resin keeps being produced after the tree is cut, so you can end up with wood with over 50% resin content which is brilliant. Lights with a match. Such wood is known as fat pine, or that's what I call it. It can be quite brittle and a very strong piney smell.

I don't see the problem with using the occasional dead pine tree, maybe if you live in an area with few trees yes, but I do not have that problem so I do use them. But the roots of old trees that have been felled at the ground by saw are just as good.
 

Alex Roddie

Member
May 23, 2008
34
0
37
Norwich
The birch tar is all in the bark, none worth extracting in the wood of birch.

You can extract the tar from pine, the roots are very good for this as they have lots to stop them rotting. You can turn over old dead pine stumps and the'll have good roots still as they are preserved. Awesome for firelighting too. Dead standing pines you can use also, especially those that have snapped off, as the resin keeps being produced after the tree is cut, so you can end up with wood with over 50% resin content which is brilliant. Lights with a match. Such wood is known as fat pine, or that's what I call it. It can be quite brittle and a very strong piney smell.

I don't see the problem with using the occasional dead pine tree, maybe if you live in an area with few trees yes, but I do not have that problem so I do use them. But the roots of old trees that have been felled at the ground by saw are just as good.

Thanks, good post. I didn't know you could get tar from pine. There are millions of pine trees near where I live, many fallen down due to gales, so I suspect this might keep me busy. :)
 

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