I have an Aitor and a Marbles. Both in a moly/chrome/vanadium mix. I've found both fantastic. I think they are classed as high carbon Stainless steel.
best knife metall for a full flat/scandi grind
- Thread starter petrochemicals
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
missuse!
well I ve bent ss knives and snapped carbon steel of a sort, but the bending is a lot less quick often or catastrophic.
Maybe I shouldnt spend alot.
Has anyone used M2 high speed steel?
The same stuff as used for heavy duty saw blades, it appears quite flexible despite its 0.85 per cent carbon content. It has 6.4 per cent tungsten too. I know its very susceptible to rust but otherwise I have no experience with it.
The same stuff as used for heavy duty saw blades, it appears quite flexible despite its 0.85 per cent carbon content. It has 6.4 per cent tungsten too. I know its very susceptible to rust but otherwise I have no experience with it.
http://www.britishblades.com/forums...1-Steel-testing-underway&highlight=Aarongough
this thread is worth a read. The results were interesting.
Not an all inclusive test by any stretch but worth a read.
Andy
this thread is worth a read. The results were interesting.
Not an all inclusive test by any stretch but worth a read.
Andy
thanks for that, will make a good read. Theres a similar thread on spyderco, buts thats all I found.
now I know your just tossing things out there, hss, whilst a lowish carbon content, the tungsten makes it incredibly brittle. Similar to high carbon steel it is inflexible and inelastic I should think. what where you thinking.
Probably the most accurate answer.
Bad heat treatment will ruin any steel, good heat treatment, will make any steel good.
01 and the like should not chip, break, roll, etc if the knife has been made properly.
Bad heat treatment will ruin any steel, good heat treatment, will make any steel good.
01 and the like should not chip, break, roll, etc if the knife has been made properly.
to be honest a micro bevel (3 bevel?) knife may be what I'm after. Dunno really. Have just read most scandi grinds are thick, so not what I'm after, and a full flat a bit flimsy ?
wierd read as most say that a2 is omplete carp. Alot of hard work by the man though. I would like to see someone do an angle test, as in what angle a blade can be at with different metals without curling when minimal pressure is applied.
Hill bill, I've have a look.
It sounds like you need a knife that can be replaced indefinitely under warranty. Have you used these? ESEE Knives
This is a question that seems to come up quite often.
I would recommend you look at some of the stickie threads over in the edged tools area.
I strongly recommend some of the newer hybrid grinds, that one that appeals to me the most is the Flandi grind made by our own FGYT. As to steel I do believe that there is not one that will do all jobs with great excellence and therefore it is a trade off. I've seen that Jon Mac has moved over entirely to bearing tool steel 5210 and some other wood working folks have as well- in my opinion it is a great steel that is worth looking into.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
I would recommend you look at some of the stickie threads over in the edged tools area.
I strongly recommend some of the newer hybrid grinds, that one that appeals to me the most is the Flandi grind made by our own FGYT. As to steel I do believe that there is not one that will do all jobs with great excellence and therefore it is a trade off. I've seen that Jon Mac has moved over entirely to bearing tool steel 5210 and some other wood working folks have as well- in my opinion it is a great steel that is worth looking into.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
What also has to be taken into consideration is ones ability to renew and maintain that grind - often in the field in tough conditions.
I really don't understand any of this thread apart from what Hill Bill said. Discussing how knives perform based on the type of steel is just nonsense. I've seen carbon steel blades which were intentionaly manufactured to be soft so they need sharpening often. They can be resharpened on a rock to a razor edge though, which was the makers intention. I've also seen cheap stainless ie 440A, which will keep an edge for ages when carving hard wood, but which are harder to sharpen.
I've carved a spoon fron seasoned oak using a £10 Roughrider; a cheap Chinese knife made from 440A stainless, It didn't chip, roll, break or any other such oddities and it came up a treat with a few swipes on a 3 inch mini sharpening steel. They have the HT spot on with that steel.
Bad use of the wrong knife for the wrong job together with improper sharpening and it's all to easy to end up obsessing about finding the perfect ''super steel''.
As Hill Bill said it's all in the HT. The makers intention is also important. A case in point is Buck. They make hunting knives and are intentionaly hard to stay sharp long enough to process a carcass. They weren't designed or intended to be battered into wood so when folks do that and they break, they consider Buck knives to be crap.
I guess it's easy to get distracted if we're buying knives based on how they look, the price and the image, which is a shame I think. We don't do that when buying a hammer or a screw driver. We don't then batter the screw driver through solid objects with the hammer then complain when the screw driver breaks. I mean we've all done it but we know not to complain because we know it's our own fault.
I've carved a spoon fron seasoned oak using a £10 Roughrider; a cheap Chinese knife made from 440A stainless, It didn't chip, roll, break or any other such oddities and it came up a treat with a few swipes on a 3 inch mini sharpening steel. They have the HT spot on with that steel.
Bad use of the wrong knife for the wrong job together with improper sharpening and it's all to easy to end up obsessing about finding the perfect ''super steel''.
As Hill Bill said it's all in the HT. The makers intention is also important. A case in point is Buck. They make hunting knives and are intentionaly hard to stay sharp long enough to process a carcass. They weren't designed or intended to be battered into wood so when folks do that and they break, they consider Buck knives to be crap.
I guess it's easy to get distracted if we're buying knives based on how they look, the price and the image, which is a shame I think. We don't do that when buying a hammer or a screw driver. We don't then batter the screw driver through solid objects with the hammer then complain when the screw driver breaks. I mean we've all done it but we know not to complain because we know it's our own fault.
What are lauri carbon steel blades made from (ie what specific grade?) I have one of theirs its tough as old boots, the only times its chiipped or rolled is when I attempted to cut metal with it...
EDIT post, I answered my own question, this is an analysis of Lauri carbon and stainless steels
Steel analysis
Carbon steel: HRC 59
C-0,81 Mn-0,56 S-0,004 P-0,01 Si 0,35 V-0,161 Cr-0,54
Stainless: HRC 57
C-0,479 Si-0,37 Mn-0,38 Ni-0,09 Cr-14,53 Mo-0,51 P-0,019
Whatever, their blades are good for me I use it nearly every day
EDIT post, I answered my own question, this is an analysis of Lauri carbon and stainless steels
Steel analysis
Carbon steel: HRC 59
C-0,81 Mn-0,56 S-0,004 P-0,01 Si 0,35 V-0,161 Cr-0,54
Stainless: HRC 57
C-0,479 Si-0,37 Mn-0,38 Ni-0,09 Cr-14,53 Mo-0,51 P-0,019
Whatever, their blades are good for me I use it nearly every day
Last edited:
well there are steels that can take a more narrow edge like a scandi, without becoming fatigued, a cut throat razor of old being an example, but usually at the expence of hardness. I don't mind if its not super hard, its not what I want it for, but I want it narrow.
Im with you on that. I make all my knives form 01 and all keep an edge fine
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
There's nothing "wrong" with any knife steel. They all have different properties. Hard, brittle, tough.... It's all a trade off.
I'll gladly loose some hardness for some toughness. But at the end of the day I require a knife to cut things.
Mistreating a knife is still mistreating a knife!
01 is popular. Old files are fine, so is spring steel. D2, A2, the list goes on.
I'll gladly loose some hardness for some toughness. But at the end of the day I require a knife to cut things.
Mistreating a knife is still mistreating a knife!
01 is popular. Old files are fine, so is spring steel. D2, A2, the list goes on.
Just use a good steel, 1095 or 01 is fine as are 12c27 or something like 440c in the stainless camp.
Or if you really want and can get it Cpm 3V or rwl34.
To be honest the geometry of the blade is more important than the steel (as long as its decent steel)
If you use it as a prybar then a differentially heat treated carbon steel will be best and have it thick. If you want a cutting tool then make a thin blade of something like rwl 34 (01 is still fine though)
Or if you really want and can get it Cpm 3V or rwl34.
To be honest the geometry of the blade is more important than the steel (as long as its decent steel)
If you use it as a prybar then a differentially heat treated carbon steel will be best and have it thick. If you want a cutting tool then make a thin blade of something like rwl 34 (01 is still fine though)
Last edited:
