Good point on the timer!
Oh - the lens is a Sigma not a pukka Canon - 135 - 400
Red
Bad Moon a Rising
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Good point on the timer!
Oh - the lens is a Sigma not a pukka Canon - 135 - 400
Red
Red will leave you alone now honest no image stabilisation on the lens then?
I take it has to be used on a tripod?!
Promise no more questions...... its just for £99 they do a tamron lens with the camera I am looking at instead of £200 and just thought for the price it may be worth a punt....but no I.S on it
D
I take it has to be used on a tripod?!
Promise no more questions...... its just for £99 they do a tamron lens with the camera I am looking at instead of £200 and just thought for the price it may be worth a punt....but no I.S on it
D
At 400mm you really need a tripod although I have hand held it in bright sun (1/1000 or faster)
Get the IS!
Get the IS!
Jumping in here... It doesn't have to be used on a tripod - depends on the amount of light around.. as a rule of thumb, you should be able to hand hold at a shutter speed of 1 over the focal length, so 100mm = 1/100th second or faster, 400mm = 1/400th second or faster (though I have to say my handholding isn't even that good
- that's why I bought IS L-glass). For BR's 'moon shot' (what a picture that phrase conjures up 
) then yes you would need a tripod. (1/15s is way slower than the 1/400 that the rule of thumb suggests 
)You can use an IS lens on a tripod, but you have to turn the IS off, or it does strange things like compensating for shake that isn't there - and the picture wanders about
- in fact IS will not cure camera shake completely, but it will let you handheld on slower speeds - typically 4-5 times slower than without it.In the 'olden days'
It was the quality (read expense) of the glass that was important, and the difference in 'clarity' for want of a better phrase, between cheap and expensive glass was noticeable for an otherwise identical setup. Nowadays manufacturing techniques have improved. And with digital cameras, the ability of the camera processing software to 'sharpen' the image has made the difference less noticeable, unless you're comparing the extreme ends of the market..do you need IS? - a lot depends on the type of photography you do - Landscapes don't move too fast, giving you time top set up a tripod... I tend to shoot wildlife as I come across it, and have to shoot handheld as there's usually not time to get a tripod set up as the fox / deer / bird of prey etc. legs it across the field, which is why i went for the extra expense of IS and 'fast glass'.
blimey, don't I waffle
EDIT: Should have let Red answer and saved meself some typing
No that was great Bikething just the sort of thing I need to here.
I think i will get the kit lens and learn to use it before looking at a medium telephoto for those pesky deer I want to shoot. I guess Is will be the way to go as I will be on the move alot and a tripod will not always be a quick enough set up.
Ta Dave
I think i will get the kit lens and learn to use it before looking at a medium telephoto for those pesky deer I want to shoot. I guess Is will be the way to go as I will be on the move alot and a tripod will not always be a quick enough set up.
Ta Dave
Just to follow this up - the rule of thumb above assumes a 35mm film or FULL FRAME sensor.. A lot of cameras - like my 10D - use small frame sensors, giving the so called 'crop factor' (1.6 in my case). This means a 100mm lens will give you the same end picture as a 160mm lens on a full frame sensor (1.6 x 100mm).
What this means for the rule of thumb, is the slowest handheld speed = 1 / (focal length x crop factor) - in the case of a 100mm lens, this would be 1/160th second, not 1/100th second as shown originally.
remember - this is only a guide... some super-steady people can handhold at slower speeds... some of us are a bit wobblier
hope I haven't bored you
uppy_dog
Remeber a tripod is not the only to steay a camera
You can use a beanbag a fence a gate or number of things as I do regularly with my compact.
You can use a beanbag a fence a gate or number of things as I do regularly with my compact.
Great photo. It would make a great poster. Have you considered findng out if it could be done and sold commercially? I wouldn't mind one myself.
stevec038
stevec038
Great shot Red, that's reminiscent of a photograph of the Moon i had published by the BBC Sky @ Night on their 50th aniversary, it's surprising how difficult it is to get a good photo of the Moon
You would be surprised at what you can photograph from your back garden Stew
Blimey Guv! That's a bit impressive.
You would be surprised at what you can photograph from your back garden Stew
WOW!!
Yours are much better!
So tell me - what set up did you sue for those? Love the Staurn shot - very Jealous!
Red
Yours are much better!
So tell me - what set up did you sue for those? Love the Staurn shot - very Jealous!
Red
Would you believe a webcam and a small amateur telescope, the shot of Saturn comprises 600 individual frames and the one of the Moon was taken with Nikon Coolpix compact camera through the eyepiece of my larger telescope.
something else to look into to reduce shake on long focal lengths is the 'mirror lockup' function if your camera has it
Been experimenting with the mirror lockup and it really does help - great tip - thanks!
Shame I don't have true spot metering.....still I can do manual bracketed exposures easy enough and I do have partial metering to kick things off
Red
"don't go out tonight, your bound to take a life...."
heh great shots guys! can i ask what kind of camera's your using? my lad got a decent telescope for christmas so we'll try and get a few shots!
pete
heh great shots guys! can i ask what kind of camera's your using? my lad got a decent telescope for christmas so we'll try and get a few shots!
pete
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