Axe Refurbishment

[Platypus]

I have had an old axe in the shed for some time now that was given to me by the father-in-law.

I would like to use it as my bushcraft axe, BUT it is in a bit of a sorry state and will need some work to refurbish it.

The handle is about 18" long and the axehead about 6" from cutting edge to butt ( these aren't accurate as I didn't bring it into work with me ) It is similar to the Gransfors Small Forrest, but with a greater curve in the belly and throat of the handle, and a longer butt to the head.

Now the main problems as I see it are;
1, The handle does not come right through the eye of the axehead but is 1/8" below the top. But is otherwise in good condition, if a bit dry.
2, The axehead is very rusty, not deeply pitted but still looks bad.
3, The butt has been used as a hammer at some time and so has started to peen over at the edges, although it doesn't appear to have deformed the eye.
4, The cutting edge is about as sharp as Blackadder's mate Baldrick!

So, can I re-use the handle or should it be ditched?
If I can, what it the best way to remove it?
Is Danish Oil Ok for handles?
After cleaning-up the axehead is it best painted or just oiled?
Should I try to reduces the size of the butt when I remove the damage or will this unbalance the head?
Is it possible to sharpen a VERY blunt axe using an angle grinder/file or would it be better to take it somewhere for a re-grind?

Sorry for so many questions
Any help gratefully recieved

Platypus

 

[Rob]

It sounds like what i have done recently for a friend of mine.

He had an old axe which was blunter than the chopping block and very rusty. Similar history of hammering abuse and the same deformation.

I have had to replace his handle, as it was the only one i have come across that had woodworm. If your helve is good and the head secure then no need to mess unless you wanted to.

Listening to the tone that the head made when I started to reprofile it (the chunks that were missing were quite frightening) I decided that i did not want to use any power tools. This is my preferred method anyway and the whole job probably took about 5-6 hours between Mel and I.

Deformations due to hammering abuse were gently removed with a file.

I remained very aware at all times that I did not want to generate too much heat.

As for treatment after you have sorted it, I use Gun Oil.

 

[torjusg]

1. Make a new axe shaft from oak, ash or any other hardwood. Rid yourself with the old shaft. Commercial shafts are generally no good as they take little consideration of the grain.
2. Soak the axe head in ketchup to remove the rust.
3. Grind of the metal on the sides. (It is a pain to have if you use it as a wedge when splitting logs)
4. Sharpening the axe with a common file is possible, but extremely timeconsuming. You might as well go along making a stone axe with the time that will take. Get someone to sharpen it for you if you don't have a very good wetstone.

The shaft can be removed by burning it out in a rather low temperature campfire. May remove some rust as well.
Any natural oil is good enough for the shaft.
You never need to oil your head if you use it often and allows it to dry nearly every day. Otherwise use gunoil or something similar.

Torjus Gaaren

 

[andyn]

2. Soak the axe head in ketchup to remove the rust.

It worries me at just how effective that ketchup and coca cola is at removing rust. I managed to totally clean up a leatherman that rusted (after it went in sea water and was left for a few months) using cola.

So I would recommend this method too.

 

[scruff]

The shaft can be removed by burning it out in a rather low temperature campfire. May remove some rust as well.

I thought this was a definate no no?!

Won't it affect the temper? Surely the XXX amount of degrees needed to burn the hndle from the head will be just as damaging as the heat generated from power tools?

Have a look around there must be some advice on this around here somewhere bud.

 

[torjusg]

I thought this was a definate no no?!

Won't it affect the temper? Surely the XXX amount of degrees needed to burn the hndle from the head will be just as damaging as the heat generated from power tools?

Have a look around there must be some advice on this around here somewhere bud.

I don't think it hurts the temper, but if you are afraid of that:

Saw off the shaft 20 cms or so from the axe head and split the shaft remaining on the head. First in half then in smaller and smaller equal parts. Eventually you probably will be able to pull out the splints or it will be weakned sufficiently for you to knock out the the stump from the top side. Have used this method often and it works well, especially on old shafts.

Edit: The point with the burning method as well is that you don't need the entire shaft turned into coals, just that the shaft is weakned enough to be pulled out of the hole.

Torjus Gaaren

 

[Ogri the trog]

So, can I re-use the handle or should it be ditched?
If I can, what it the best way to remove it?
Is Danish Oil Ok for handles?
After cleaning-up the axehead is it best painted or just oiled?
Should I try to reduces the size of the butt when I remove the damage or will this unbalance the head?
Is it possible to sharpen a VERY blunt axe using an angle grinder/file or would it be better to take it somewhere for a re-grind?

Sorry for so many questions
Any help gratefully recieved

Platypus

HI Platypus,
If you fully trust the original handle - then leave it in place, but if you have any doubt of its integrity, replace it. Once done, I wouldn't paint or varnish the handle as it is more likely to cause blisters, stick to oil.
Removing axe handles can be a bit of a chore but do as others have said or get an old chisel and gradually chip bits out until the remaining bit comes free. You could even use a drill to chew out enough waste wood to loosen the handle, just go careful that you don't damage too much steel inside the eye.
Danish oil is fine, as would be any oil meant for treating wood (and some that aren't).
For future protection of the head, oil is as good as you can get. Virtually any oil, and just smear enough of it on so that the surface glistens - that should be sufficient to keep it from rusting as badly again.
The balance of the finished article will depend on many factors - handle length, angle and shape for starters - if you dont like how it comes out, repeat the job and adjust whatever you don't like.
If you want to preserve the hardness in the edge, don't let it get hot if you can help it - long and very slow with a grinder or hand tools.

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Ogri the trog

 

[Platypus]

Thanks for all the replies so far.

Now that I'm at home and can look at it again, I find I was wrong about a couple of things

The handle is only 14" long (not 18" - it's always smaller than you think ), maybe that makes it a hatchet?
The head shape is much broader than I thought, 4" from heel to toe (not as nice as the Gransfors).
On the head it is stamped "GEM1"


Platypus

 

[Platypus]

Here's a couple of pics

 

[Rob]

The official advice from GB is to drill out the old handle - if that helps

 

[torjusg]

I don't like that kind of axe for general bushcrafting, too broad edge.

Torjus Gaaren

 

[Platypus]

I don't like that kind of axe for general bushcrafting, too broad edge.

Torjus Gaaren

I did wonder that myself, what are these types usually used for?

 

[torjusg]

I am not sure, but we have similar axes in Norway that is only used when making planks and flattening the sides of logs in traditional log-house construction.

Torjus Gaaren

 

[george]

What you've got there Platypus is a Kent pattern carpenters hatchet.

Not much good for bushcrafty stuff I'm afraid - it's a style of broad axe much more useful for general woodwork and working with large timbers.

If you must use it for bushcraft stuff then I would certainly give it a bit of a going over. But to be honest I wouldn't take a Kent pattern axe into the woods with me.

Whatever you do don't put it in a fire to burn out the handle - you will definately ruin the temper.

To take the old handle out then either drill it out or just chip away at it with a chisel until it is loose enough to pull out. From looking at the pics I can see that the head is loose (the marks below the head show it has shifted) and the handle damaged. It's probably not original either as many Kent patterns use a straight shaft.

I'd renew it all and give it a good refurb - but then I'd put it in the workshop and take it out when I was working with some big timbers that needed squaring or somesuch - not when I was trying to make some feather sticks or split some firewood.

george

 

[OldJimbo]

It's a hewing hatchet but refinishing is a worthwhile project. If you can hold head steady then drill a few holes into wooden wedge at 45 degrees inline with long axis, and use a round screwdriver haft to pry it out. The head will then easily come free. At that point you can see the condition of the handle under the eye and check as whether it's dry rotted. If it isn't then whittle the eye fitting back as far as possible and refit. A new wedge and the head should then be tight. If you decide to replace the handle then use a coping saw or even a hacksaw to cut right behind the head. The wood in the eye will tap FORWARD very easily because heads are wedged from the front. It's easy to push wood through from the back.
It's probably faster to grind the burr off the poll. The metal there isn't tempered hard. Most garages will let you use their bench grinder. Just be careful to wear glasses because slivers will come flying. And don't try to grind tempered edge on a grinder unless you have lots of experience. Using a belt sander is pretty safe on edges.
It shouldn't take long with files and emery paper to finish the rest.

 

[pierre girard]

I have had an old axe in the shed for some time now that was given to me by the father-in-law.

I would like to use it as my bushcraft axe, BUT it is in a bit of a sorry state and will need some work to refurbish it.

The handle is about 18" long and the axehead about 6" from cutting edge to butt ( these aren't accurate as I didn't bring it into work with me ) It is similar to the Gransfors Small Forrest, but with a greater curve in the belly and throat of the handle, and a longer butt to the head.

Now the main problems as I see it are;
1, The handle does not come right through the eye of the axehead but is 1/8" below the top. But is otherwise in good condition, if a bit dry.
2, The axehead is very rusty, not deeply pitted but still looks bad.
3, The butt has been used as a hammer at some time and so has started to peen over at the edges, although it doesn't appear to have deformed the eye.
4, The cutting edge is about as sharp as Blackadder's mate Baldrick!

So, can I re-use the handle or should it be ditched?
If I can, what it the best way to remove it?
Is Danish Oil Ok for handles?
After cleaning-up the axehead is it best painted or just oiled?
Should I try to reduces the size of the butt when I remove the damage or will this unbalance the head?
Is it possible to sharpen a VERY blunt axe using an angle grinder/file or would it be better to take it somewhere for a re-grind?

Sorry for so many questions
Any help gratefully recieved

Platypus

For many years I've had far too many axes, drawknives, and other edged tools to take a lot of time sharpening them. I still don't have a lot of time to monkey with such things, so if you do have time, do some of these things by hand with a file or hand stone.

For the deformed poll or back, grind the sides flat with a power wheel and even bevel them off a bit. If you dunk the poll in water - after every grind (before you notice any heat discoloration) - you will not have to worry about the temper - especially on the poll end. You can dress this with a file or hand stone.

For the bit - use a foot powered wheel, dunking the bit in water quite often, to keep from ruining the temper. After you've got it sharp as you can with the wheel (depending on what you need), use a fine stone to get a razor sharp edge.

Someone mentioned coka-cola for removing rust. Amazing how well it works.

For the haft - if it is tight - it is no big deal if it is not flush. If you feel a need to get it flush, try placing a board on a concrete floor and, holding the haft just below the shoulder of the haft (an inch below the head), rap the heel (end) of the haft (the handle end opposite the head) smartly on the board you've placed on the floor - several times. See if this won't push the wedge up through the head.

If it wont, and you feel a need to get the haft flush (or slightly above the head), remove the haft by placing the head in a vice (use wood blocks on either side to keep from marring the head further) and, using hammer and driver, pounding out the haft with the largest driver you can fit in the eye. Dress the neck of the haft with a rasp and try it in the eye of the head again. Repeat until it is doing what you want it to.

One good thing to do with any kind of wooden haft or handle is to let it set in linseed oil for a week or so - head attached. You will never have a problem with the haft coming loose again. It will not harm the head.

PG