I'm going to buy a new Axe sharpening Puck, And I used to use a £4 ish cheapo, is it worth buying the Lansky one for an extra fiver?.
cheer's
cheer's
Axe Puck?
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What kind of an axe? What are you going to do with the axe?
They don't all need to be sharpened the same.
I have a several axes and hatchets for chopping and splitting.
A combo 80/120 grit and a combo 120/220 grit carborundum.
10W30 engine oil is OK to flush away the swarf. Not ever a "lubricant."
My wood carving elbow adzes and D adze are another matter, honed after 1,500 grit.
They don't all need to be sharpened the same.
I have a several axes and hatchets for chopping and splitting.
A combo 80/120 grit and a combo 120/220 grit carborundum.
10W30 engine oil is OK to flush away the swarf. Not ever a "lubricant."
My wood carving elbow adzes and D adze are another matter, honed after 1,500 grit.
A small chopping Hatchet for in the shed and I wanted it to put in my Bergan for when I'm out and about for more than afew days.
cheer's
cheer's
If you are set to buy the puck shaped stone, I can not imagine the Lansky branded one is twice as good, or will last twice as long, as the cheap, half price one.
For our ‘working knives’ which we need to be very sharp, we use a standard, dual coarseness stone we bought in a builders supply store.
Cheaply. Works beautifully.
For our ‘working knives’ which we need to be very sharp, we use a standard, dual coarseness stone we bought in a builders supply store.
Cheaply. Works beautifully.
I have a 2-sided carborundum axe puck. When I shut my eyes and feel the surfaces,
I can subjectively claim that it's about 120/220 grit. I try to keep the total included bevel to 30 degrees.
I can subjectively claim that it's about 120/220 grit. I try to keep the total included bevel to 30 degrees.
Admittedly only tried the pucks a couple of times and didnt get on with them. Hoodo-hone type setup each time for me. I find the pucks a bit small and scary..
I wanted to get something Small & Light really, I've got loads of Diamond/Ceramic combi stones and the like, But I thought that if I really had to put the axe to hard use for longer trips out it might be a simpler way to get a rough edge back on it then finish if off with a finer stone.
To be frank, if you only cut wood, you only need a ‘touch up’ now and then, so a small two grit stone should be fine.
One stone for all your sharps.
I used to take a broken-in- half dual stone ( the oblong one) with me. I then progressed to rocks I found.
Son has a puck, but I think too the surface is to small. And fingers get very close.
One stone for all your sharps.
I used to take a broken-in- half dual stone ( the oblong one) with me. I then progressed to rocks I found.
Son has a puck, but I think too the surface is to small. And fingers get very close.
TBH, with an axe out in the field, I'll find a river bed worn stone of some kind and just put an edge back on with that. I even do it with knives if I have to (rarely though). I only have my full sharpening kit in a static camp.
Unless you're trying to do carving or felling, an axe doesn't need to be anywhere near as sharp as a knife.
Unless you're trying to do carving or felling, an axe doesn't need to be anywhere near as sharp as a knife.
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