Axe profiling

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Right, well here goes then!

This is my grandfathers axe, a 4lb Brades. Now it's not a very good quality axe, I'll be the first to admit it, but then my grandfather was a countryman and farm worker all of his life as was his father and father before him. The handle is no better quality than the axe, but it though now working loose is perhaps the most priceless part of the axe since he undoubtedly cut it out of a hedge at some point.

Anyway, I'm a bit confused about the profile. It appears to be a side axe, but I'm unsure as to whether or not this is the result of sharpening, since it undoubtedly would have been done on either a grindstone or a sythe stone (he could cut grass as close as a lawnmower with a sythe).

I don't really have much use for a side axe I guess, though it does have a smaller bevel on that side. So opinions are welcome about where I go from here. I have sharpened it, but not according to Reds instructions as I don't want to spend too much time polishing it if it needs a major attack by a file.

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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Wow, now there's a pretty thing!

Hard to tell if its designed as a broad / side axe. Can you take a shot of the whole head looking down from above? I'm tempted to say "not a side axe" right now - just an odd bevel on the left of the bottom picture, but its hard to tell. If it is a Brades broad axe it would be a shame to mess with it.

Whichever type - she's yummy

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Red, thanks very much for that, and now you've got my mind working, I don't think that it's a side axe, but a few more photos in the daylight should help

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Now I could be wrong but the heel seems further out than the toe - something else that perhaps ought to be adjusted.

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tinderbox

Forager
Feb 22, 2007
195
1
61
East Lothian
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Now I could be wrong but the heel seems further out than the toe - something else that perhaps ought to be adjusted.

I'm renovating a small splitting hatchet which had the same problem. When I took the old haft off and inspected the eye it was clear that the head had been fitted upside down.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Na, not a side axe (in my view), just sharpened a bit unevenly.

Sadly the helve is write off for use. So you have choices - you restore to use or clean up as a memento. Happy to help either way

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
I've known that the helve would need replacement even if I didn't want to admit it, but that is the way of helves! Still, I don't see the point in a momento as such, the helve can do that on it's own, and I would like to bring the axe back into as good a useable condition as I can - the exercise of using it would do me good!

If you can help there Red, then any advice is gratefully received - I wouldn't know where to start looking for a replacement helve let alone a suitable one!

Thanks
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Wow! Now I knew that you were good with axes Red, but now I'm just stunned to speechlessness!

I thought I'd give it a few last swings and the helve split!

Helve removed now. Length of the eye back to front is 6cm - I assume that this is the measurement you were looking for?

Thanks
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
No surprise when you look in the top of the eye Mirius

Axe eyes (particularly that age) are measured in inches - so we will need a 2 and half inch helve.

How long do you want it to be?

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Glad you mentioned that last one there Red, just rescued the one I removed! I guess that I should stick to the length of the existing helve which is a shade under 26 inches.

Mirius
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Hmm thats a weird length for a 4lb head...hand and a half (limbing axe)..I'll have a shufti though

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Well don't treat that as gospel! The normal length will do me fine, whatever that is - I've never used this axe seriously enough to become attached to the length.

Thanks
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Do you know how to fit it?

I would also sort that bit out before you fit the new handle - not afterwards. Shout if you need any input

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
I knows nuthin!

I'm pretty sure I can figure out how to fit it... famous last words :D

But the bit, now that I don't want to muck up, after all I can worst case buy another helve, so any help on that would be muchly appreciated. I know the principles from your other thread, but knowing how I should approach it and what I need to be watching out for and adjusting would be great!

Mirius
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Okay, if you know nuthin, we'll go slow.

Have a read of this, it might just help a little

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11708

One thing I forgot to mention in there is to use some strong wood glue to hold the wooden wedge in place.

Your big job is to re-centre the cutting edge. You are going to need a crosscut file (b*stard file) to do that. The instructions are in the thread, but in effect, you need to file away, keeping a convex profile, until the cutting edge is in the precise centre line of the head, then re sharpen.

Do ask if this leaves you with questions

When fitting the helve, its shave, tap head on, look for pressure marks in the wood, shave and sandpaper , little and often

You could stain the new helve (having sanded off and varnish or oil - which is a good idea anyway), get it really smooth, stain it and then re-sand with wire wool and then oil finish. It could look nicely aged like the old one if you do that

Red
 

Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
Oooh not seen that thread before :) very nice.

Okies, first thing will be to get a vice set up, need to do that anyway! Only thing that springs to mind is that since I'll be doing some major work on the shape of the bit, is there any rule of thumb as to how deep the convex profile should be? One thing I note is that I also can't tell which is supposed to be the top of the head - the eye is not noticeably cone shaped at all, it seems to be pretty much straight!

When I've got that right I'll have fun with the helve!
 

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