Axe Handle Shape

[durulz]

Hello All.
Quick question: what difference does it make whether an axe handle is straight or one of those bendy goats-foot shaped ones?

I ask this because a couple of days ago I rehandled a 18" long axe handle. Originally it was a goats-foot shape. But I replaced it with a straight one. I can find no difference whatsoever in the way I use it or how it performs. Maybe it's because I'm only using a short axe and that's why there's no difference? Or maybe it's because of how I'm using it - not using it to chop wood so much as shape wood.
Anyway, I'd genuinely like to know the reason for the different shapes, because my (limited) experience is showing no difference whatsoever.
Cheers.

 

[woodwalker1987]

Just my two cents...i would say the goats foot bit on the bottom is to stop your hand slipping off when giving a good swing, the s shaped handles theoretically must give more leverage and move your hand/knuckles further back out of the way...

 

[JohnL]

I have never noticed much difference, interestingly lots of splitting mauls have a strait handle, but they have a rubber grip so may be easier to hold.
If I am making a handle, I tend to go with the grain, I sometimes have some slightly unusual shapes, but it all adds to the character of the tool!

 

[HillBill]

The hooked handles give an extra pivot point in the hand for more force with less effort, like how a trebuchet works, it forces the axe to whip round. Plus it gives the same performance with a tighter arc of swing so needs less room to use properly.

 

[woodwalker1987]

well done bill thats what i was trying to say!

 

[durulz]

Cheers.
I suppose that's why I am not noticing any difference - I am not using it with a lot of force, more of a carving motion than a chopping motion.
Just wondered.
Once again, cheers.

 

[mr dazzler]

I like the fawn foot shape (I call it the vacuum cleaner handle form) I find it enables you to place the angle of your cut's more precisley, sort of like a tiller on a boat rudder. I recently rehandled my roselli axe with a fawn foot shape (quite an extreme one)

When I hold the axe right at the end, the angle and the wedge shaped swell give me a positive safe grip, and the axe becomes an amazingly powerful little unit. It has some real power and accuracy now. I am amazed at the size of the chips it will take off. I used it today to rough out a full size fen spade from willow. It was no more than 30 minutes from half log to a state ready for the draw knife

It does take some confidence, based on lots of practise and experience, to use it this way. But I think jimbo was right when he said something about the potential of a small axe head on a slightly longer than usual handle......
Straight handles are easier to make of course and are entirely traditional too....

 

[Chinkapin]

I suspect that straight axe handles only showed up when double-bit axes made their appearance. A double-bit axe, of necessity must have a straight handle, otherwise, when you turn it around to use the other side it would be pretty awkward to say the least.

When re-handling a single-bit axe, I would not consider anything but a curved one. There would be no reason you couldn't use a straight handle, but in my opinion it would not be the best nor "feel" the best.

 

[robin wood]

I like both and would not loose too much sleep over it. If you are not holding it at the end then obviously it makes no difference and as often as not for hewing I hold near the natural pivot point a little below the head. I have been using a Japanese carpenters axe for hewing beams recently and that has a straight handle which works well. If you are felling then you'll tend to hold with one hand on the end and then the fawns foot stops the hand slipping off and gives a good feeling of security.

 

[bhofmann]

I like the joint at the bottom right of that picture of the fen spade.

Nice to see the VII marking which tenon matches each mortice (a sure sign it's hand made). I do that when making stuff as well - no two are ever the same. But mostly I like how the joint is constructed: The beam rests on a wedge shape cut into the style. This means the weight won't be resting on just the tenon. Very clever.

 

[durulz]

I must say, I also do enjoy a good mortice and tenon. The only thing better is a perfect dovetail.

Oh yeah, I put a straight handle on the axe in the end. Nice and solid it is too.

 

[demographic]

As mentioned the ones with the straight handle that I've seen are usually the ones you can turn around and use the other way round, like double bit axes or like my maul.

 

[Peat]

Ooo I love the look of those roselli axes.

 

[Hedgehog]

Swings & roundabouts I guess.

I have read professional woodsmen from the states extol the virtues of one over the other - worth bearing in mind that the fawns foot curved handle is a modern thing & has less continuous grain witch makes it inherently weaker for a given thickness.

I'd say the throw of the head has more effect on efficiency than handle shape.

Read 'The Ax Book' & see why the strait handle is superior in accuracy & strength then read 'An Ax to Grind - a practical Ax manual' to take on some conflicting opinions from another expert...

...all fascinating stuff.

 

[featherstick]

Hello All.
Quick question: what difference does it make whether an axe handle is straight or one of those bendy goats-foot shaped ones?

I ask this because a couple of days ago I rehandled a 18" long axe handle. Originally it was a goats-foot shape. But I replaced it with a straight one. I can find no difference whatsoever in the way I use it or how it performs. Maybe it's because I'm only using a short axe and that's why there's no difference? Or maybe it's because of how I'm using it - not using it to chop wood so much as shape wood.
Anyway, I'd genuinely like to know the reason for the different shapes, because my (limited) experience is showing no difference whatsoever.
Cheers.

Your arms are quite clearly the wrong shape

 

[mr dazzler]

I like the joint at the bottom right of that picture of the fen spade.

Nice to see the VII marking which tenon matches each mortice (a sure sign it's hand made). I do that when making stuff as well - no two are ever the same. But mostly I like how the joint is constructed: The beam rests on a wedge shape cut into the style. This means the weight won't be resting on just the tenon. Very clever.

It is very clever. Its simple and also traditional:You_Rock_(our ancestors do). An excellent way to support large floor load, but also works as an effective tie beam too. I added a small stub leg halfway across to spread weight onto 6 legs. Framed up from recycled fence posts and 6x2 floor joists and redwood decking boards. Roof is recycled polycarbonate from an old conservatory. Footings are recycled scalpings and rubble whackered down with a breeze block pad stone for each leg. When the shed is full of fresh cut timber I reckon theres 3 or 4 tons all told.....I would of liked to cut 4 tyiing joints but they are best suited to an equal pitch roof, this needed to be a lean to pitch (easier front acess without smacking head off front plate)
Heres a few more shots

LOL if needs be I could add some clapboard, small pot belly stove and convert it into a small carving shop.....