Attaching antler headpiece to wooden staff

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dommyracer

Native
May 26, 2006
1,312
7
46
London
Right,

I have a Hazel Staff that I would like to add an antler headpiece to, but am unsure of the best way to do this to make is nice and strong.

I was thinking that drilling a hole into the top of the staff and the base of the antler then putting a piece of dowel in, gling it might work - possibly with some sort of metal collar around the join....??

Anyone have any surefire ways to make this work?
 

JonnyP

Full Member
Oct 17, 2005
3,833
29
Cornwall...
dommyracer said:
Right,

I have a Hazel Staff that I would like to add an antler headpiece to, but am unsure of the best way to do this to make is nice and strong.

I was thinking that drilling a hole into the top of the staff and the base of the antler then putting a piece of dowel in, gling it might work - possibly with some sort of metal collar around the join....??

Anyone have any surefire ways to make this work?

Funny, I have the same job to do....I have an antler and a hazel staff, which is still drying out. I am going to drill a 10mm hole into the antler and whittle the hazel down to fit it and stick it in with some gripfill or something. Would be interested in other suggestions though......
 

Bardster

Native
Apr 28, 2005
1,118
12
54
Staplehurst, Kent
Jon Pickett said:
Funny, I have the same job to do....I have an antler and a hazel staff, which is still drying out. I am going to drill a 10mm hole into the antler and whittle the hazel down to fit it and stick it in with some gripfill or something. Would be interested in other suggestions though......


Stickmakers use These
you can also but them at Homebase/BandQ
 

Stew

Bushcrafter through and through
Nov 29, 2003
6,456
1,294
Aylesbury
stewartjlight-knives.com
I've used threaded bar before (the reaaallly long bolts you get in diy stores and trim to size).

One time I threaded the holes then used epoxy as well. Another time I didn't have the thread cutters around so I made the hole slightly oversized and just glued the threaded rod in place. (The threads give the glue something to bite on)

As far as I'm aware both are still fine but the second method is easier.

I don't see why you couldn't use coach bolts with their heads cut off!
 

chrisanson

Nomad
Apr 12, 2006
390
7
60
Dudley
if you use "All-thread "it can be drilled and taped into the antler. I would suggest putting a feral on the wood to stop splitting (this could be just a peace of tube)and use epoxy to glue, leave to set overnight then shape the antler to the shaft. Jobs a goodun
chris
 

dommyracer

Native
May 26, 2006
1,312
7
46
London
Chris, are you suggesting putting a thread into the antler then screwing the allthread into it

What do you mean by using a feral? I assume you mean ferrule but not sure where you're going?
 

Stew

Bushcrafter through and through
Nov 29, 2003
6,456
1,294
Aylesbury
stewartjlight-knives.com
Thinking about this some more, what's the antler like?

More importantly, does it have lots of porous marrow? If so I would be tempted to hollow it out a bit and fit a wooden plug into it so that the bolt has something decent to cling to.
 

chrisanson

Nomad
Apr 12, 2006
390
7
60
Dudley
dommyracer said:
Chris, are you suggesting putting a thread into the antler then screwing the allthread into it

What do you mean by using a feral? I assume you mean ferrule but not sure where you're going?

Hello again,
First of you will have to excuse any spelling cockups as I am dyslexic ( I use word but it doesn’t always understand me).
As for the last post the answer is yes and yes. I have often taped into antler and yes I did mean “ferrule”.
Sorry for any confusion .
Chris
 

dommyracer

Native
May 26, 2006
1,312
7
46
London
Chris - no worries mate, I think I understand what you mean now - here's a tip - try using the latest version of Firefox browser - it has a built in spell checker which is pretty cool for using forums, particularly if your typing is as bad as mine.

Stew - I've no idea, I haven't got hold of the antler yet - I was just canvassing some ideas to see if it would be as easy as I thought it would be. And so far its looking promising...
 

JonnyP

Full Member
Oct 17, 2005
3,833
29
Cornwall...
Cheers guys, I know what I am going to do now....Drill a 10mm hole into the antler (thats about as big as I could get away with), then whittle down the top of the staff to fit and then put a dowel screw into the top of the staff, after pre drilling and then screw the staff into the antler, might need to pre drill that too, then I will remove the staff, chuck some gripfil or epoxy into the antler and screw it back together......That should do the job.....
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,715
1,962
Mercia
There really is no need to worry about the rod into the antler or stick. I've made about 20 sticks and staffs for myself and others and using epoxy, it works just fine if you sink the rod a decent (3") distance. Ferrules and parts are available from Attelborough Accessories amongst other places (including alpine spikes and varoius other fittings). A shaped horn, wood or bone spacer between the headpiece and staff often makes fitting a lot easier. Feel free to drop me a note if struggling and I'll dig through the "box of much stuff" for any parts or just dispense (probably dodgy) advice

Red
 

falcon

Full Member
Aug 27, 2004
1,211
33
Shropshire
Have a look at this book by Andrew Jones and Clive George...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stickmaking...ef=sr_1_1/202-7534255-3439828?ie=UTF8&s=books
...it covers all of the basic techniques. I drill out a slightly oversize hole in each piece to be fitted (shank & antler or shank & wood for handle shaping including spacer) and then glue and clamp together with epoxy and 8mm threaded bar. If the pith in the centre of the antler is too friable or delicate, you can drill out the majority of it, then whittle a hazel plug which is glued into place with Gorilla Glue (this bubble and expands into the spaces around the plug). Once it's dry, cut it all square before drilling out the hole to insert the threaded bar. It's very effective and you're more likely to break the stick before you break the glued up joints... ;)
 

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