Ammo box construction questions

[siman]

I am going to give it ago and make an ammo box stove out of an ammo box I have lying about. (little green one, pretty sure its the 50 cal one without going in the shed) Couple of questions though.

1. I don't own a welder (do have MIG an TIG experience though through apprenticeship), but do have some fire cement from making a wood-gas stove left over, would that be strong enough to use as a joining solution for a flue pipe?

2. Would a top flue be better or a 90 degree one coming out the back?

3. Is a baffle a must or not? And if so, what's the best placement considering the above question? (be it back or top flue)

I have all the tools to do it, just need a few tips in constructing it.

Thanks,

Simon

 

[whitey3192]

never made one but hjave wanted to try for a while.

hope this is of some use

http://www.scribd.com/doc/25622660/A-Long-Term-Survival-Guide-Types-of-Primitive-Ovens

whitey

 

[Melonfish]

Actually thats a really good link about ovens and the like. i rather fancy a try at one of them.

 

[Neumo]

There was a couple of threads on here showing you haow to make one. I have a couple of weekends camping coming up in Feb, so want to get one sorted out before then.

 

[addo]

Flue exit on mine is welded. You could cut and bend some tags, fix with rivets, and fire cement it.

Flue horizontal wont be as good for draw, but will work with some tinkering with air inlet, and possibly a short upright section.

Baffle would be a good idea if you can pull it off, should reflect more heat and slow the burn down. I just have an adjustable air inlet, and once the stove is hot, this cracked open and the door shut, it works well.

 

[Silverhill]

Nice link there Whitey, cheers!

During the construction of my (still unpainted ) stove, I experimented with a long section of horizontal (2ft) before a tight 90 degree bend but the fire choked too easily with the door closed despite the holes drilled at the front of the stove. The horizontal was soon removed and replaced directly with a longer 90 degree bend, with the 2ft section removed, which created far superior conditions and a better draft, although it is welded on.

If you know a decent welder, I'd suggest cutting out a boss which can be easily riveted onto the stove, and then getting your welder friend to weld a 90 degree section of pipe to this. Failing that, I could always do it for you if you cover the postage

Welding will always be more resilient than the fire cement route, and riveting is somewhere between the two (depending on the type of metal used for the rivet-Aluminium may not cope with the heat).

 

[demographic]

THIS is from Bumpkins (I assume its the same one that comes on here) Scribd.

 

[siman]

Can do all the welding myself as j used to make prototype exhausts, just done have gear. Think I'm going to go for opening lid at the bottom so I can get the ashes out, top flue, larger door than cut out with fire rope and some kind of adjustable air intake in the front. Baffle will be tacked in last, then fire cement the edged to seal it. May tack in supports for a rack for the coals etc to sit on. Will get on with this new year.

 

[Silverhill]

Shame you're not closer Siman; you've could borrowed my welder to do yours, and then we could've set up a wee business knocking out ammo box stoves! Lol
You've got some cracking ideas there that may well make an appearance in my mk2 stove.