Hello Jed,
This may seem a little odd to some, but Im actually going to try and answer the questions that you have asked (weird, or what?
).
Jedadiah said:
...1. The models i am looking at are the F1 with micarta handle, or the S1. I cant help but think that the S1 may be too big and i'm not sure about the spear point blade profile. Also, could the F1 be too small and what are the advantages of a Micarta handle?...
The F1 is a nice sized knife for general purpose use (remember, the F1 is a lightweight aviator's survival knife, and not a bushcraft knife per se). The Thermorun handle is meant to prevent freeze injuries (hence no metal parts on the handle) in extreme sub-zero temperatures, as those found in Artic winter conditions, and when using the knife without gloves (you would be doing this for minutes only in these conditions, as frostbite could result in 'pretty short order'). The handle has a chequered pattern on it to improve grip with cold and/or wet hands, or indeed underwater (a really bad combo of circumstances in sub-zero temperatures), a lot of bushcrafters find that under temperate conditions, and without gloves, the chequering can produce blisters on soft skin, with prolonged use. A lot of bushcrafters dont like the thickness of the blade at the cutting edge as it tends not to bite as deep into wood as other kinds of edge grind.
The Mircarta handled F1 will be a lot more comfortable during prolonged use.
Jargon fact: the F1 blade shape at the tip is called a drop point.
The S1 is designed to be used for working with wood. The arcs of the convex grind form a more acute edge than the F1, and will bite deeper into wood and so is more suited to whittling. You still have the problem though of potential blisters with prolonged use if you have hands that are as soft as a nuns bum.
Jargon fact: the S1 blade shape at the tip is called a clip point (not a spear point)
In summery, the handle of the Micarta F1 will be more comfortable than the handle of the Thermorun S1 when using for prolonged periods, and if you have soft skin.
The longer blade of the S1 may be advantageous when batoning wood.
My personal solution to this dilemma would be to buy an S1 blade (blade only) and make and fit a handle of your own preference and choice. Obviously, if you dont have soft skin, then there is no dilemma.
Jedadiah said:
...2 They are descrbed as having a 'convex ground edge. Is this going to be a problem when i come to maintain the cutting edge?...
The convex edge is very easy to keep sharp if you know the right technique. The convex grind worries a lot of people. It worried me when I bought my first convex. I find it the easiest of all grinds to sharpen freehand (along with the Nordic grind).
Jedadiah said:
...3. As the blade seems to be made out of VG steel (Very good?) what would be the best method of maintaining it (whetstone, oil stone, strop?)...
Peter Hjortberger at Fällkniven recommends Arkansas stones or the Fällkniven Diamond/Ceramic Whetstones (DC3/DC4).
I use the DC4 for all of mine, and for all other blades including axes, machetes, Goloks, Mora knives, and blades made from 01 tool steel, various types of stain resistant steel, to great effect. Just follow the instructions on the back of the DC4 box, to get you going. And the more you practice with the Whetstone the more you will learn and refine your sharpening technique.
A leather strop, I have discovered (in the past couple of weeks), is superb way of putting a very sharp edge on a knife. I would recommend using the strop after the ceramic side of the DC4 (dont use the diamond side of the DC4 unless you have chipped the edge of the blade unlikely with normal use). The common misconception about sharpening a knife is that you have to remove a lot of metal. All you need to do is polish the edge smooth with the ceramic side of the Whetstone. The more polished it is at the edge the sharper it will be.
Jargon fact: VG-10 is a stain resistant steel (no stainless steel is ever totally stainless, it can only resist staining to a greater or lesser degree) that was developed for easier sharpening. Some stain resistant steels can be difficult and time consuming to sharpen due to the toughness of the metal. VG-10 is both tough and easy to sharpen.
Best tip ever: buy a loupe so you can see what is happening at the cutting edge of a blade. There is a lot more happening than you can see with the naked eye.
Jedadiah said:
...4. If anyone has experience of these knives or viable alternatives, please could they explain the positives and negatives, however, please remember, i am a newbie and am still not 100% familiar with 'Jargon'...
Other knives worthy of consideration (and some close to your budget
)
Bush Knife:
http://www.jls-wednesbury.org/id52.html
Paul Baker:
http://www.bushmanuk.co.uk/index.html
Dave Budd:
http://www.davebuddknives.homestead.com/Bushcraft.html
Steve Cox:
http://swc-handmade-knives.com/
Nick Johnson:
http://www.knivesbynick.co.uk/custom_knives.htm
Mike Keogh:
http://www.mikesknives.co.uk/3.html
Mick Spain:
http://msknives.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/
Mick Wardell:
http://www.wardellsknifesupplies.com/
Moras:
Frosts SL-1 Laminated carbon steel blade. It comes with either a plastic sheath which is good for neck or belt wearing, or a Scandinavian type leather sheath. The blade is a little under 3mm thick, which is the thickest blade of this type that Frosts make). By the way, it has an unfinished birch handle, which is nice if you would like to put your own finish on the handle.
Frosts 780 Triflex modified carbon steel blade. This is a useful choice because it has an ambidextrous sheath. Also I notice that it has a thicker blade than the carbon/stainless/military options (Known as the 740, 760 and 760MG respectively) and its thicker than the Clipper.
Jargon fact: the Triflex steel has a differential temper, meaning the edge is tougher than the rest of the blade, so you get the benefit of a hard cutting edge with a flexible knife.
Moraknife 711 Laminated carbon steel blade. This has a very comfortable grip should you need to use it continuously for several hours, and it has a handle that is suited to larger hands. The standard colour is black, but it can be obtained with a green handle and sheath (711G). Again, at just under 3mm, its the thickest blade that Mora of Sweden make of this type (The green ones I own, have the makers name as K J Eriksson on them - K J Eriksson are now known as Mora of Sweden). There is also a stainless option available.
By the way, I was whittling some seasoned birch a few weeks ago, and it chipped and rolled the edge of a Clipper very badly. Wont be buying another one.
Hope this helps
Best regards,
Paul.
