advice on thread for sewing leather with machine please

[smojo]

I've got some soft leather and a good heavy duty Singer sewing machine. I want to make some pouches etc. Had a go with some heavy duty cotton thread but the bobbin struggles a bit (thread probably too thick) and the tension gets screwed up and bunches sometimes. So I wondered what can the experts recommend as a strong type of thread for machine work please. What make? What thickness? I guess ordinary Gutenberg polyester is not strong enough really.

 

[Macaroon]

Yes, it is strong enough; Guttermann (sp) polyester sew-all is the perfect thread to use on garment or upholstery leather for pouches. It's not the thickness of the thread that makes for a strong seam, it's stitch length, basic
pattern seam allowance and how carefully you do it that count for much more. Lacing your shoes with rope won't make them any stronger!

 

[smojo]

Yes, it is strong enough; Guttermann (sp) polyester sew-all is the perfect thread to use on garment or upholstery leather for pouches. It's not the thickness of the thread that makes for a strong seam, it's stitch length, basic
pattern seam allowance and how carefully you do it that count for much more. Lacing your shoes with rope won't make them any stronger!

What would be a good stitch length please. My machine has settings stitches/inch

 

[singteck]

What would be a good stitch length please. My machine has settings stitches/inch

I would sew with the 5 or 6.

 

[John Fenna]

I always use the max length on my machine - the fewer holes the less likelihood of tearing...
I also find that a walking/equal feed foot helps avoid seam slippage.

 

[ozzy1977]

Decent leather needles are a good idea too.

 

[Macaroon]

Decent leather needles are a good idea too.

Yep, these are a must..............You've got to have the right needles for the job in hand. And I too would use 5 or 6 stitches per inch for soft leather.

 

[smojo]

Thanks, not sure what a walking feed foot is though. I have an old 1939 Singer 201-2 and just standard and zip feet. I have found the seams slip which is annoying. Do you need more foot pressure or less for leather than say cotton? I tried adjusting the pressure a bit but made no difference.

 

[smojo]

Decent leather needles are a good idea too.

Yep got some thanks

 

[John Fenna]

Thanks, not sure what a walking feed foot is though. I have an old 1939 Singer 201-2 and just standard and zip feet. I have found the seams slip which is annoying. Do you need more foot pressure or less for leather than say cotton? I tried adjusting the pressure a bit but made no difference.

A walking or equal feed foot has feed dogs so that the top layer of material being sewn is fed through the foot just as the lower material is by the dogs in the baseplate

 

[Macaroon]

On a 201, you need to reduce the pressure on the foot according to the thickness of the material going through it; slacken the thumbscrew on the very top of the needle bar housing as much as you can, run a test piece through and then increase again 'till you get seam slippage; then come back off a bit and you'll be good to stitch.

Some people like to apply a little glue to the seams to hold them in place whilst stitching, others will baste (sp), or long rough stitches by hand just to hold everything aligned, then either left or cut and pulled away later.

 

[bilmo-p5]

Some people like to apply a little glue to the seams to hold them in place whilst stitching, others will baste (sp), or long rough stitches by hand just to hold everything aligned, then either left or cut and pulled away later.

Basting tape (double sided sticky tape) is also handy and available from haberdashers in widths from about 5mm through 25mm.

These are also useful for holding thicker fabrics together and you can just pull them off as the fabric is about to go under the foot.