Advice on reprofiling adze with a grinder please

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philaw

Settler
Nov 27, 2004
571
47
42
Hull, East Yorkshire, UK.
I've never used a bench grinder to sharpen or reprofile before, and was hoping someone could give me a couple of tips. I had a go at this adze today and it was harder than I expected. I had a practise on a tatty old axe first, and kept getting little dings while I was grinding it, even when using less pressure. It was also hard to get a smooth and rounded edge. It could have been heat treated too hard and the grinding wheels are not the smoothest, but it's not my grinder so I can't change them. The axe is just a spare user, but I'd still like to know what I was doing wrong before I have a proper go at the adze.

The adze is going to be sold, - assuming someone needs a hefty cooper's adze :rolleyes: - because I'm unemployed and it's not going to see much use, but I want to fix it up first. Am I right in thinking that I'm going to have to take off a lot of metal to get the edge level with the rounded-off corner? It strikes me that if the corner isn't as sharp as the rest of it, it'll dig in there in use. Otherwise the edge is pretty flat and I should be able to get it sharp by hand. I'm aware that I'll need to keep it cool with light pressure and water if I take a lot off. And that it needs a new handle!

Cheers, people.









 

demographic

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 15, 2005
4,694
711
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Would it have has a straight edge in the first place? Sometimes with things like that they have a slightly curved but sharp edge so the "corners" don't dig in as much.

Many planes are ground with a slight curve on the cutting edge of the iron, smoother planed having an almost straight edge and very little curve at all on them, Jack planes have a bit more of a curve and scrub planes have quite a lot of curve to the edge.
This allows them to be used on a board that's wider than the width of the plane iron (blade to some) without the corners of the iron causing tramlines in the wood being planed. Same thing with shipwrights slicks.

I've only used an adze once and can't remember that very much but it makes sense to have a bit of a curve for the same reasons.
 

Warrigal

Member
Nov 11, 2006
48
0
55
Brisbane Australia
I too have an adze ( granddads) I am trying to clean up. I was working on the rounded corners concept and have the concept of a long shallow edge ( I do not have a back ground in woodwork) I have a linisher and a water wheel but am taking it very slowly.
Carl
 

robin wood

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Oct 29, 2007
3,054
1
derbyshire
www.robin-wood.co.uk
If you managed to grind it that smooth on a bench grinder you are better at it than me. Generally bench grinders have hard stones and run at high speen which gives very little feel. The steel easily jumps and bumps when trying to do delicate jobs. I would be much happier with a belt linisher or slow running water stone like a tormek. I grind curves like this on a belt linisher by holding it with the edge paralel to the belt which allows me to easily sweep it through a curve giving a nice smooth curved grind rather than a series of flats. The same could be done by clamping it in a vice and cutting it with a coarse file, no worries of overheating that way too. If you do progress with the stone obviously keep a bucket of water handy and grind and dip regularly to keep cool.
 

demographic

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 15, 2005
4,694
711
-------------
If you managed to grind it that smooth on a bench grinder you are better at it than me. Generally bench grinders have hard stones and run at high speen which gives very little feel. The steel easily jumps and bumps when trying to do delicate jobs. I would be much happier with a belt linisher or slow running water stone like a tormek. I grind curves like this on a belt linisher by holding it with the edge paralel to the belt which allows me to easily sweep it through a curve giving a nice smooth curved grind rather than a series of flats. The same could be done by clamping it in a vice and cutting it with a coarse file, no worries of overheating that way too. If you do progress with the stone obviously keep a bucket of water handy and grind and dip regularly to keep cool.

You need one of them fancy water cooled big grinder things like schools have in their woodwork department:)

I'll be working just a few hundred yards away from my house so give me a call when you know what time you will arrive and I'll be in then.

Regards Scott.
 

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