A little Lee Reeves restoration

[British Red]

It is indeed Snufkin. I ordered the maple from Lee when I got it, meaning to replace it when I broke your replacement. I never broke your replacement So I have been sat on the maple for a couple of years at least. Been doing some tidying up and decided to put it on.

 

[dean4442]

Please please please PLEASE will you stop putting these pictures up I'm weakening and worry that I'll buy one of these beautiful axes you keep showing me!
Colin

 

[British Red]

You can buy that one if you like Colin

 

[British Red]

You should glue some leather to your vice jaws mate, it grips tight still but doesn't mark anything.

Didn't want to change my metal vice....but I really liked your idea Mark.

Managed to get a 6" woodworking vice for cheap.....

and so.....


Padded Vice by British Red, on Flickr

Should do the job I think?

 

[HillBill]

Nice one

I need to replace the leather on mine every 6 months or so, but thats due to heat damage to the leather as i use it to clamp the blades while i take the angle grinder to it. Heat just makes it harder, but over time it will crack and bits come off. I use mine daily though, well at least 5 out of 7. I have a box full of leather offcuts so if you need some more, give me a shout mate..... still need to send you some pineberries lol. I'm terrible

 

[Mesquite]

Should do the job I think?

Nice work Hugh...

Only criticism personally is you risk skinning your knuckles on the bolts and wing nuts. I'd have used screws to fix the blocks to the vice

 

[British Red]

Its a good point Steve. I've only put wingnuts on the handle end (if it put them on the "non" handle end they would foul the work bench when butting the vice up.

I used them because I like to be able to "reconfigure" things (e.g. swap out the sacrificial wood quickly). I know that makes me weird - but I have so many hobbies that my measly 4m long work bench is inadequate. I like to make things "fast moveable" now.

So al my "bench" tools are clamped to 18mm outdoor ply then clamped to the workbench with F clamps


Bosch Pillar Drill by British Red, on Flickr

Good job too.....here is my new sliding chop saw. I went for a sliding version so that I can cut wood 300mm wide and 75mm deep (12" x 3").


Chop Saw by British Red, on Flickr

As you can see - to give the thing room - I need to extend my workbench forwards so that it is 4' deep. So my next job is to build a moving work bench that can convert the existing one to a "T" shape (with the chop saw in the middle) or a straight line when cutting long timbers or an "L" shape to mitre the end of 4m lengths

All that said though - I should chop the end off those bolts and file them smooth!

 

[HillBill]

Sounds much like i do Red. I have a TINY workspace so i always need ot move things. Its a total PITA if i'm honest lol

 

[British Red]

Space I have ....and you are welcome to use it....but each job seems to want a different arrangement....sometimes I want a drill in the middle of the bench. Sometimes I want to use the bench for brewing....or sawing or ...well you get the idea.

 

[HillBill]

Nightmare

 

[British Red]

Nightmare

I'll just have to build the solution

 

[milius2]

well done Red, I always like the clean working areas I see on your posts, usually I make a lot of mess round and get tools dirty all the time. A thing or two I should learn from you...
Another thing is: the axe mask, if it would be hung on right side, would it be possible to take the axe out one hand? Clip mask open and take axe out with only right arm?
I have a wee axe myself and I want to carry it on right side, knife on the left, but I can't work out the best carrying option and this one looks like it could work?...

 

[British Red]

Milius mate, my preferred (and in my opinion safest) carry method is left side, poll forwards.

Singteck and I devised this system years ago...with two snaps on the axe cover


Baldric2 by British Red, on Flickr

As you can see by undoing both snaps, the axe can be withdrawn without having to lift the helve upwards out of a loop. By carrying it with the bit rearward, withdrawing the axe forwards means the sharp edge is moved away from any possible cuts - not towards them. The axe is also in the correct orientation when brought to the right side.

 

[milius2]

That's clever and neat this is... I skipped a train on a leather group buy this time, but next time I might be getting myself a on that train and buy a large piece of leather for making a few belts and knife sheaths. Italians do good leather I heard, or at least that's what Lithuanian knife makers buy these days.
Cheers Red, again, that Lee Reeves axe looks superb!