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Ph34r

Settler
Feb 2, 2010
642
1
35
Oxfordshire, England
Over the last week I have purchased a Fallkniven f1 and a gerber big rock (fine edge).

Gerber:
Holds edge quite well
Easy to sharpen
You would not want to F**K with it
Virtually indestructable
Nice handle
Ergonomic
Light (considering its size)

Fallkniven:
Holds a very good edge
Convex grind (some may need to refine their sharpening skills)
It is verry brittle, and not much force behind it - not that it matters, you could always baton it.
Handle :/ - it's okay
Ergonomic
Very light

Additonal comments: The blackness on the blade soon wore away.
The zytel sheath is crap, their leather one is naf.

I was given two days, in which to test two knives. I am impressed by both. HOWEVER I do believe that the gerber is probably the best value for money -£30, where as the fallkniven is £90. Neither are very good for skinning. The gerber is a bit more of a tank. The fallkniven is more compact.

I was actually a bit dissappointed with the fallkniven, after hearing so many good things about it. I should imagine that I will have them for a good few years yet, and am hoping that they both serve me well.

Ph34r
 
G'day Ph34r

....
Fallkniven:
Holds a very good edge
Convex grind (some may need to refine their sharpening skills)
It is verry brittle, and not much force behind it - not that it matters, you could always baton it.
Handle :/ - it's okay
Ergonomic
Very light
......

I'm not sure what you mean by "It is verry brittle and not much force behind it"-

Would you mind elaborating?



Kind regards
Mick
 
G'day Ph34r

Despite the fact that I doubt it will snap, it just feels like it, and I get a bit uneasy...
A Fallkniven can be broken.

The Division of Solid Mechanics at Lulea University of Technology in conjunction with Fallkniven themselves have tested the F1 to breaking point as can be seen here: http://www.fallkniven.com/test.htm

For the laminated F1, it took a "breaking weight at the lever" of 101 Kg or 223 lbs.

I honestly doubt there are many people who could exert that sort of load on a knife with one hand.

Now if you were to batton it point first into a tree and jump up and down on the handle, then you might stand a better chance of breaking one by using your body weight to do it :lmao:

This raises an interesting question.

If it did break whilst jumping up and down on the handle, would you think it was a bad knife? :confused:




Kind regards
Mick
 
I dont think it is a bad knife, but I think thats it suits its survival purpose better than bushcraft.
I think you are right. goodjob

Probably explains why it was originally designed as a Swedish Airforce pilots survival knife :D

But I've got to ask you what you reckon constitutes a "bushcraft knife"?

Is it a zero scandi grind? Maybe, but in my experience certainly not when used with seasoned & knotty hardwood.

Is it a convex grind?

Is it a V grind?

Is it a spear point?

Is it a drop point?

Is it a clip point?

Can a bushcraft knife only be made from O1 steel :yikes:

Or at the end of the day, does it only depend on the skill of the user :D

Discussion of a "bushcraft knife" really does open up a big can of worms, doesn't it ? :D

My bushcraft knife certainly doesn't fit any of the "conventional wisdoms" spouted by many of the "internet bushcrafters" or "car campers" as to what a "bushcraft knife should be". But then again, I'm quite prepared to put up enough pics' & videos that show in reality it is more than capable of doing the job :D

Does this mean that everyone should use the knife I choose to?

I sincerly hope not :nono:

I only hope they actually get out & use the knife they choose. goodjob



Kind regards
Mick
 
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I think the F1 is a great bushcraft knife. Though the term isn't restricted to simply fine carving and detailed work, I've found my fallkniven fine for it, as well as batonning through hardwoods.
But I've found I can achieve the same results with woodwork with any of my knives, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, convex, flat ground, scandi and hollow.
 

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