A couple of sheaths

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Hibrion

Maker
Jan 11, 2012
1,230
9
Ireland
Made a couple of sheaths this week so thought I'd share.

The first one is for a Jeff White trade knife and is made from veg-tan with suede lining and fringes. Tooled in a western / mountain man style and given a slightly aged look. This can be carried on a belt, sash or 'baldric' style, like some of the Native Americans did. Quite relevant to a recent thread on here now that I think of it.


Second one is more minimalist. A 'pancake' style sheath for a Spyderco Mule. This one is ambidextrous too.


I've been doing a bit of carving too. This is a fender bib for a Harley that I got to go wild on. I knew when I was drawing out this one it was going to be time consuming to carve, but I'm happy with the outcome. It's a pity it had to be black, but I think it suits the subject matter.


As always thanks for looking :) comments and criticisms welcome ;)
 
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Thanks. I think the bib will end up with some braiding around it too.

That suede just seemed right for this project. It has a slight bucskin look to it.
 
Nicely done, carving is brilliant.

Could I ask, do the fringes serve a purpose or are they decorative on the sheath?
 
Thanks, guys :)

As far as I know fringes were originally put on leather clothing etc. to help draw water away from seams. In this case they are just decoration though.
 
that carving is top notch!
that sheath for the White knife is quite unique, I can see that your special qualities lay in form and decoration and carving
that pancake spyderco seems not so great, but I could be wrong. The stiching is very tight to the edge, no wet form so I guess one can stab through the leather in reguler use unsheatening it. A proper thick welt is necesarry. Me myself am not such a great artist haha (understatement) but I always go for full security and years of use (durable). When working with a model sheath where the handle is in the sheath (pancake, wrap around) I always do wetforming. The perfect handle contour and the thin straight blade section and fitting welt will ensure no cutting in the leather of the sheath (especially in the blade section). I could be wrong but I even dare to say that for instance the not wet formed sheath for the Ray Mears knives are quite cut up from the inside. (I have cut through a F1 Fallkniven leather sheath, a custom full grain F1 leather sheath within days of testing and saw the same issue on a Woodlore clone knife sheath non wet formed) (after these experiences I have started making my own sheaths).

Hope that made sense and one can use the comments and criticism :) ;)
 
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Thanks for all the positive comments, guys. I appreciate it :) It is always nice to have praise from fellow craftsmen :)

Mors, I enjoy the carving the most, but all my stuff is made to last too. Form and function. The stitching will hold up where it is and their is no need to wet form for security. I've never been much of a fan of wet forming and prefer to make a tight fit by more traditional means. The Spyderco sheath is 5 layers thick in the centre and tapers to 2 on the outside of the belt loops, so there is an ample welt to guarantee protection, yet keep the knife secure even if upside down. I think you would have to try very hard to poke through all that. Having said that, the pancake sheath isn't really my style, but it's nice to be able to do something if asked. Thanks for the comments and hope that explains the function beneath the form.
 
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Hibrion
thanks!
I did not know about these layers and the progression in them, good work indeed, that is a nice construction! I am convinced :)
thanks for sharing !
 
Thanks guys. Sunndog, it's going on a Socal style Springer. Matching saddle, bags, tank chap, footboards and the cables are being braided in leather too.
 

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