Found this while searching for wood burning stoves - i guess that it translates across to open fires aswellWhich Wood Burns Best?There are a myriad of wood types to choose from, all of which have their own burning qualities and properties and although there are references to burning green wood in this guide, we would stress that for the most efficient and effective burn in your wood burning stove only very dry wood should be used. We have listed below a brief but by no means comprehensive guide.In addition there are of course the compressed reclaimed 'eco' type of logs and briquettes. Theses tend to burn well and for a decent length of time because they are dense and very dry, however try to choose a product that does not break apart too easily.Alder: Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. PoorApple: A very good wood that burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good Ash: Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very GoodBeech: Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very GoodBirch: Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. GoodBlackthorn: Has a slow burn, with good heat production. GoodCedar: Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. GoodCherry: Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. GoodChestnut: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POORDouglas Fir: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. POORElder: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POORElm: Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. MediumEucalyptus: Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. POORHawthorn: Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very GoodHazel: Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. GoodHolly: Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. POORHornbeam: A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. GoodHorse Chestnut: A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good(for Stoves)Laburnum: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR Do not use.Larch: Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. MediumLaurel: Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. MediumLilac: Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. GoodLime: Not a good wood for burning as it produces very little flame or heat output. PoorMaple: Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output. GoodOak: Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. GoodPear: Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. GoodPine Species: (Including Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution) Plum: A good burning wood that produces good heat output. GoodPoplar: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POORRowan: Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very GoodRhododendron: The older and thick stems can burn well. GoodRobinia (Acacia): Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (for Stoves)Spruce: Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. PoorSycamore: Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. MediumSweet Chestnut: The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (for Stoves)Thorn: One of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very GoodWalnut: is a moderate to good burning wood. MediumWillow: A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. PoorYew: A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very Good
A brief guide to wood types and how they burn
- Thread starter Eragon21
- Start date
A brief guide to wood types and how they burnWhich Wood Burns Best?There are a myriad of wood types to choose from, all of which have their own burning qualities and properties and although there are references to burning green wood in this guide, we would stress that for the most efficient and effective burn in your wood burning stove only very dry wood should be used. We have listed below a brief but by no means comprehensive guide.In addition there are of course the compressed reclaimed 'eco' type of logs and briquettes. Theses tend to burn well and for a decent length of time because they are dense and very dry, however try to choose a product that does not break apart too easily.Alder: Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. PoorApple: A very good wood that burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good Ash: Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very GoodBeech: Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very GoodBirch: Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. GoodBlackthorn: Has a slow burn, with good heat production. GoodCedar: Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. GoodCherry: Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. GoodChestnut: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POORDouglas Fir: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. POORElder: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POORElm: Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. MediumEucalyptus: Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. POORHawthorn: Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very GoodHazel: Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. GoodHolly: Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. POORHornbeam: A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. GoodHorse Chestnut: A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good(for Stoves)Laburnum: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR Do not use.Larch: Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. MediumLaurel: Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. MediumLilac: Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. GoodLime: Not a good wood for burning as it produces very little flame or heat output. PoorMaple: Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output. GoodOak: Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. GoodPear: Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. GoodPine Species: (Including Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution) Plum: A good burning wood that produces good heat output. GoodPoplar: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POORRowan: Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very GoodRhododendron: The older and thick stems can burn well. GoodRobinia (Acacia): Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (for Stoves)Spruce: Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. PoorSycamore: Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. MediumSweet Chestnut: The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (for Stoves)Thorn: One of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very GoodWalnut: is a moderate to good burning wood. MediumWillow: A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. PoorYew: A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very
Paragraphs and the return key, they help! 
A brief guide to wood types and how they burn.
There are a myriad of wood types to choose from, all of which have their own burning qualities and properties and although there are references to burning green wood in this guide, we would stress that for the most efficient and effective burn in your wood burning stove only very dry wood should be used. We have listed below a brief but by no means comprehensive guide.
In addition there are of course the compressed reclaimed 'eco' type of logs and briquettes. Theses tend to burn well and for a decent length of time because they are dense and very dry, however try to choose a product that does not break apart too easily.
Alder: Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Apple: A very good wood that burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good
Ash: Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very Good
Beech: Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very Good
Birch: Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Blackthorn: Has a slow burn, with good heat production. Good
Cedar: Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Cherry: Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. Good
Chestnut: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POOR
Douglas Fir: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use.
POOR
Elder: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POOR
Elm: Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. Medium
Eucalyptus: Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. POOR
Hawthorn: Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very Good
Hazel: Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. Good
Holly: Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. POOR
Hornbeam: A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. Good
Horse Chestnut: A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good(for Stoves)
Laburnum: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR – Do not use.
Larch: Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Medium
Laurel: Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. Medium
Lilac: Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. Good
Lime: Not a good wood for burning as it produces very little flame or heat output. Poor
Maple: Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output. Good
Oak: Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. Good
Pear: Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. Good
Pine Species: (Including Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution)
Plum: A good burning wood that produces good heat output. Good
Poplar: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR
Rowan: Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very Good
Rhododendron: The older and thick stems can burn well. Good
Robinia (Acacia): Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (for Stoves)
Spruce: Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Sycamore: Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. Medium
Sweet Chestnut: The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (for Stoves)
Thorn: One of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very Good
Walnut: is a moderate to good burning wood. Medium
Willow: A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. Poor
Yew: A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very Good
------
Thanks for this, I am guessing you picked this up from here...
http://www.deanforge.co.uk/which-wood/
They might appreciate a link.
A brief guide to wood types and how they burn.
There are a myriad of wood types to choose from, all of which have their own burning qualities and properties and although there are references to burning green wood in this guide, we would stress that for the most efficient and effective burn in your wood burning stove only very dry wood should be used. We have listed below a brief but by no means comprehensive guide.
In addition there are of course the compressed reclaimed 'eco' type of logs and briquettes. Theses tend to burn well and for a decent length of time because they are dense and very dry, however try to choose a product that does not break apart too easily.
Alder: Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Apple: A very good wood that burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good
Ash: Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very Good
Beech: Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very Good
Birch: Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Blackthorn: Has a slow burn, with good heat production. Good
Cedar: Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Cherry: Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. Good
Chestnut: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POOR
Douglas Fir: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use.
POOR
Elder: A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. POOR
Elm: Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. Medium
Eucalyptus: Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. POOR
Hawthorn: Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very Good
Hazel: Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. Good
Holly: Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. POOR
Hornbeam: A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. Good
Horse Chestnut: A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good(for Stoves)
Laburnum: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR – Do not use.
Larch: Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Medium
Laurel: Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. Medium
Lilac: Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. Good
Lime: Not a good wood for burning as it produces very little flame or heat output. Poor
Maple: Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output. Good
Oak: Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. Good
Pear: Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. Good
Pine Species: (Including Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution)
Plum: A good burning wood that produces good heat output. Good
Poplar: A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very POOR
Rowan: Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very Good
Rhododendron: The older and thick stems can burn well. Good
Robinia (Acacia): Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (for Stoves)
Spruce: Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor
Sycamore: Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. Medium
Sweet Chestnut: The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (for Stoves)
Thorn: One of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very Good
Walnut: is a moderate to good burning wood. Medium
Willow: A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. Poor
Yew: A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very Good
------
Thanks for this, I am guessing you picked this up from here...
http://www.deanforge.co.uk/which-wood/
They might appreciate a link.
Last edited:
Perhaps linking to the article would've sufficed - easier to read:
http://www.flamingfires.co.uk/which-wood-burns-best.htm
http://www.flamingfires.co.uk/which-wood-burns-best.htm
Paragraphs!
I am guessing you picked this up from here...
http://www.deanforge.co.uk/which-wood/
They might appreciate a link.
Great minds...
A poetic version................................................................
Beech-wood fires burn bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year;
Store your beech for Christmastide
With new-cut holly laid beside;
Chestnut's only good, they say,
If for years 'tis stored away;
Birch and fir-wood burn too fast
Blaze too bright and do not last;
Flames from larch will shoot up high,
Dangerously the sparks will fly;
But ash-wood green and ash-wood brown
Are fit for a Queen with a golden crown.
Oaken logs, if dry and old,
Keep away the winter's cold;
Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke;
Elm-wood burns like churchyard mould,
E'en the very flames are cold;
It is by the Irish said;
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread,
Apple-wood will scent the room,
Pear-wood smells like flowers in bloom;
But ash-wood wet and ash-wood dry
A King may warm his slippers by.
Anon.
Beech-wood fires burn bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year;
Store your beech for Christmastide
With new-cut holly laid beside;
Chestnut's only good, they say,
If for years 'tis stored away;
Birch and fir-wood burn too fast
Blaze too bright and do not last;
Flames from larch will shoot up high,
Dangerously the sparks will fly;
But ash-wood green and ash-wood brown
Are fit for a Queen with a golden crown.
Oaken logs, if dry and old,
Keep away the winter's cold;
Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke;
Elm-wood burns like churchyard mould,
E'en the very flames are cold;
It is by the Irish said;
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread,
Apple-wood will scent the room,
Pear-wood smells like flowers in bloom;
But ash-wood wet and ash-wood dry
A King may warm his slippers by.
Anon.
Thanks Sandbender - it is much appreciated. I did that and for some reason it didn't change the ouput. I made sure that the post had all the spaces but it still posted as one paragraph. I am in work and the computers are not great. It looked okay when I put it in on each of the times I posted it but must preview it next time
Thanks very much for posting.
What is the story on burning the wood of very poisonous trees : yew, laurel, etc? I would have thought burning yew wasn't a good idea!
What is the story on burning the wood of very poisonous trees : yew, laurel, etc? I would have thought burning yew wasn't a good idea!
Yew timber I have been told is not toxic. I am not certain now. Some sources suggest timber is toxic and others suggest the bark is toxic.
Berry flesh is non toxic.
The seed and foliage is toxic.
Alder may get a bad rep in terms of burning, but it is acknowledged to make excellent charcoal, black powder and of course gunpowder.
No I am not now!!
I was basing my statement on advice given to me years ago regarding using the timber to make eating and drinking vessels... That advice being that it is ok. I am assuming ok due to the timber then being seasoned and oiled?
The foliage and seeds are without doubt highly toxic.
The berry flesh is NON toxic.
The timber? I don't know for sure!
I will edit my previous post.
Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk
Similar threads
