3mm Dyneema for ridge line.

RE8ELD0G

Settler
Oct 3, 2012
882
12
Kettering
I have money waiting for someone who can source some proper (ie same as DD sells for Whoopie slings) 3mm Dyneema in Carbon Color. I need a 10m run for ridge line.

I will also need an eye splicing into one end for a carabiner and the other end pulled inside to stop from fraying.

I tried but am currently in a resolution case with
uk-yacht-rigging-and-supplies on Ebay as they sold me crap.
Its not dyneema, not the right color and will not hold a splice, it just pulls out.
It feels like its much smoother than the whoopie slings so guessing its a knock off product.

Please someone help asap as i dont want to buy any more Paracord as it keeps fraying and stretching on me.:aargh4:

If anyone can do this for me please let me know how much you need and when it can be done.

Thanks guys.
 

mountainm

Bushcrafter through and through
Jan 12, 2011
9,990
12
Selby
www.mikemountain.co.uk
Can you link me up with what you bought - as there are many different dyneema cords available and not all will make whoopie slings as not all are braided with a hollow core - some have a dyneema core with an external wrap.

What you're after is usually referred to as D12 (but there are other variants such as amsteel).

DD hammocks sell it at about £1/m

Adding a locked brummel eye splice at one end and a bury at the other is something that's pretty easy to do if you follow an online tutorial.

http://www.ddhammocks.com/product/amsteelblue

M
 
Last edited:

ex-member BareThrills

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 5, 2011
4,461
3
United Kingdom

Grebby

Life Member
Jul 16, 2008
507
53
Sutton Coldfield
Ok thanks for that i will have a look on the DD website.
I didnt see they sold the Dyneema by the meter just as pre made whoopies.

This is the one i bought, do not buy from him as he is not being very nice to me and generally customer service is very poor.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141134560...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The ebay link says Liros D-Pro. Here is the manufacturers page http://www.liros.com/en/products/productfinder/details/detail/liros-d-pro.html

Other than the ebay listing showing it as SK75 and D-Pro saying SK78 there isn't much difference. Does it look like the liros link?

It is 12 strand so should be good for easy splicing. When you say that the splice "just pulls out" what splice are you using? A locked Brummel can't just pull out and other splices may need lock stitching.

How are you thinking of attaching the end without the caribiner? Dyneema doesn't knot well at all.
Cheers

Grebby
 

Grebby

Life Member
Jul 16, 2008
507
53
Sutton Coldfield
Actually looking again it does say 12-plaited, heat set and covered. Does it have an inner and an outer? If so different splices would be needed than when using standard D12 type stuff(I.e. hollow)
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
The ebay link says Liros D-Pro. Here is the manufacturers page http://www.liros.com/en/products/productfinder/details/detail/liros-d-pro.html

Other than the ebay listing showing it as SK75 and D-Pro saying SK78 there isn't much difference. Does it look like the liros link?

It is 12 strand so should be good for easy splicing. When you say that the splice "just pulls out" what splice are you using? A locked Brummel can't just pull out and other splices may need lock stitching.

How are you thinking of attaching the end without the caribiner? Dyneema doesn't knot well at all.
Cheers

Grebby

SK78 is a bit stronger than SK75. They have improved creep resistance too. For whoopies though, yes, it doesn't matter much at all.

A clove hitch is fine for the hammock end.
 

RE8ELD0G

Settler
Oct 3, 2012
882
12
Kettering
I want to use a nite ize fig 9 for the other end.
Dont know what the splice is called but its pulled down through the middle of the strands.
It just pulls out as soon as you apply any tension.
I have now used superglue to keep it in place

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk
 

Grebby

Life Member
Jul 16, 2008
507
53
Sutton Coldfield
Until a splice is loaded and the weave has tightened on the inner it is prone to slip.
I've never seen a splice where the tail is looped round and fed back into the centre of the rope, I would imagine that if they are used then the bury (where the rope end is inside the other bit) would need to be of considerable length and lock stitched.

I'm not the greatest when it comes to the names myself but I've played with Marlow D12 and have either followed their splicing instructions (youtube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhVh_nidEpw) or used a brummel splice (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YDW8OwL0Oc).

As you have easy access to both ends of the rope I would use a brummel splice. They are easy to do. Don't forget to use the correct length tail to bury and to taper the tail so as not to leave a weak point. I know that the Marlow splice tail is 50 times the diameter of the rope but that does pass through the rope a few times before being buried. Watch the video and give it a go, that's basically what I did :D

I've never played with a fig 9 jobbie so I don't know how they hold on slippy stuff but I assume you've tried it and it works OK.

Let us know how you get on :)

I've just found out the name of the splice you are using and its a "long bury splice", the buried tail should be 72 times the rope diameter and lock stitched (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7nzYi6bNv0).

Cheers

Grebby
 

Grebby

Life Member
Jul 16, 2008
507
53
Sutton Coldfield
I've just read noticed the bit about super glue.

This will probably knacker the splice. It will probably pull on the strands strangely and the hard bits of glue may abrade the weave.
I know I have holes in some t-shirts where I got superglue in them and the then hard glued are cracked and broke up, but I don't know if the glue would be absorbed into the rope the same way.

I'd redo the splice anyway, but I like playing with splicing.

Cheers

Grebby
 

RE8ELD0G

Settler
Oct 3, 2012
882
12
Kettering
Well i tried my new setup the other night and can now state some facts.
The line i got is not dyneema, it will not hold a prussic loop/knot and has more stretch than 550 paracord.
Nite ize figure 9 small, not able to hold any weight, as soon as i pulled tension on the line it bent and when i tried to put the pegs in the ground it bent the thing completely!!!
and the small carabiner i bought that was supposed to be able to withstand the weight of a bergen being pulled up a mountain........snapped as i was applying tension on the figure 9......
so all in all a crap night out and a waste of over £20.


Does anyone know the weight limits of Dutchwear carabiners and tarp flies?
These will be the next thing to try for my tarp line, and some 1.75mm amsteel
 

Swjoergensen

Member
Mar 17, 2013
38
0
Denmark
I assume you need it for a tarp ridgeline?
I'm using lash-it/zing-it from UKhammocks.co.uk
Lash-it is grey, zing-it is yellow. Virtually no stretch, good strength. Work with fig9's and can be spliced with a bit of fiddling and patience. I think the diameter is around 1.75

I have a fixed loop in one end with a soft shackle, and fig9 on a prussic on other side of my tarp.

The splicing methods are the same as with amsteel, only thinner cord. I fairly confident that it will work for your needs.

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Swjoergensen

Member
Mar 17, 2013
38
0
Denmark
I use it as a continual ridgeline under my tarp. The tarp is rigged with soft shackle prussics in either end so I can adjust it along the ridgeline. Works great and takes up no space.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
 

Headshed

Forager
Nov 17, 2011
172
0
Warwick
I also got the yellow 'zing-it' from Mat for my ridgeline (Tarp that is) I use locked Brummel's on one end and back splices on the other, I also do the same for all my guy lines to. As you did I bought some dyneema cord from evil bay, the description was a bit iffy but I took a punt anyway. It wasn't hollow braid, just jacketed dyneema core, I used it as part of a Single line suspension system for large spans between trees (see hammock forums for a better tutorial on this), where it works fine. Being jacketed it works well with most knots that I've tried such as Alpine butterfly, Evenk hitch, Clove hitch and my current favourite the Farrimond hitch. If your using your line just for a tarp rideg or guylines, I'm not sure why you'd want 3mm anyway, most good quality line below 2mm should be fine. If, however, your using it as part of a hammock suspension system, then I can fully understand why! Lol.
 

Swjoergensen

Member
Mar 17, 2013
38
0
Denmark
Regarding weight limits on the dutch gear you mention. I think it's in the area of 1000 lbs. Most lines will, and should break before deforming the hardware. Otherwise I'm sure theres too much tension in the rig.

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jacko1066

Native
May 22, 2011
1,689
0
march, cambs
I use a Dutch hook at 1 end of my tarp ridge line and a Dutch tarp fly at the other. It's holds my dd 3 x 3 no problem. I use 2mm dyneema from the bay. I use prusiks to tension my tarp made of the same dyneema as the ridge. Perhaps iv got the wrong idea in my head but why do you need to splice it for a ridge line mate? My Dutch hook is held on with a fishermen knot and the Dutch tarp fly also stays in place through friction. Great, easy quick way to get a ridgeline up.
Would you like some links rebeldog?
 

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