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I will happily make a knife like that for anyone. No need to be a BladeSports competitor to have one :) I will say though, that the edge of a true competition knife is somewhat akin to owning a racing car ... REALLY fast, but not really all that practical for popping down the chippy in ;) (i.e...

Thank you Dave for re-posting those fantastic pictures ! :) I have now saved them to file. They're probably the best 2 stills shots I've ever seen of a cut in action :)

If the edge is becoming damaged with 'normal' use, then chances are that it has been honed at too fine an angle (resulting in a very sharp, but very thin and insufficiently supported edge somewhat akin to that of a straight razor. (A razor is good at what it is designed for, but that's NOT...

If it is a Scandi, then a full regrind, sharpen, and polish of the bevels will have it ship-shape whatever level the rest of the blade is finished to. PM Inbound.

Just had to look up your knife to assure myself that you weren't on about a 'pig sticker' with a tang that only went into the handle 2 1/2" ! That would be a disaster waiting to happen :lol: As Dave says, clamp it firmly and drill carefully with a good bit and all should be well. Buy your tube...

As Harvestman says, if you want to live long and prosper .. take it off ;) A lanyard on an axe or hatchet is a self-harming incident just waiting to happen. I will only ever use a lanyard on even a knife if it is forward posistion, like on a competition cutting knife. A 'traditional' lanyard...

An alternative would be to weld an extension onto the existing tang. This could be pre-shaped to make it into either sensible length for such a large blade, or even make it into a full tang. You would need to protect the blade from overheating whilst you welded, but if done properly it wold make...

You can't go worng with Devcon 2 Ton as long as you mix it properly. 'Ordinary' Araldite will often cure to a more yellow colour so any gap-filling you do with it will become more apparent. Devcon cures pretty clear and is as tough as you're ever likely to need it to be. Never rely solely on...

Really glad you're happy with it Steve :) You should find the shallower bevel angle better suited to your needs now. Thank you for the public acknowledgement.

I'm glad you're happy with it fella :) As you told me that you wanted the handle that bit larger to make for good gripping whilst wearing mittens, I added the hole at the base of the sheath on the advice of a friend with Arctic experience. The addition of a good 'toggle' to both the handle and...

... and there was me all ready for a ruddy good rant about a couple of different matters tonight. Bottoms !

Is it just me, or has it gone again ?

I'd definitely be up for that Phil :) Would prefer to use the anissed balls though (better aerodynamics as well as being much nicer to eat those I don't use as ammo :lol;)) and would be happy to chip in for at least half of a 3Kg bulk-buy )

It sounds to me like you might be leaving a 'wire edge' or burr on the knife when you use the edge of the glass to finish it. This burr will be very sharp, but also extremely thin and weak. It would be able to shave hair easily, but the first time it touched something as hard as wood it would...

... and why ever not Tony ? You know what they say ... "It's all good fun until someone gets hurt ... then it becomes hilarious !" :lol: I've just made a new catty that puts .36" lead balls right through Ikea's finest chipboard (about 20mm thick) at 10 paces .... Not tried mints yet. Don't know...

Aaah,, it's a Mora ... The thin-ness of the Mora blade can make it susceptible to bending if used incorrectly. It might be that you got a 'soft' one, but I doubt it knowing the way these are all production line produced it would be difficult for one to miss a stage and still make it through the...

Any knife that bends relatively easy (as it sounds like yours has .. both ways !) is probably too soft to take and keep a good edge properly, unless is has been very differentially hardened (hard edge and soft spine). This could be caused by a problem with the heat treat or even the steel the...

Silverback .... The strop should only be used (IMHO) to polish an already 'finished' edge, not to remove a burr. If there's still a burr on the edge then by my reckoning you've not finished honing it properly ;)

Elines ... To a degree you're right. I use thin, firm leather on the strops I make for sale, and use myself, for this very reason. Applying pressure to to thicker or softer leather with the knife edge will deform the leather beneath the edge to the extent that it can actually round off the edge...

Wanna bet ? ;) Tony .. You're on ! :)