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Saw dust pellets seem to be used here but briquettes are rarely seen, they exist though so somebody is using them. I remember almost melting a sauna stove with them 60 years ago, so by volume they are more energetic than any normal wood, not tested any of the woods having dry density over 1 though.

I'll agree with that properly (even half way) done anodizing does not stain your fingers that way but untreated Al does.

"This point here ..." is not a very precise definition for measuring things. Apparently being a black belt or barrister does not help in writing or speaking clearly and in an unambiguous manner. :rolleyes:

Even Erowid does not know it. :D

This would be high:St Thomas cross And no I can't make anything like that.

Whatever you do, do it wet so that no dust gets around. Hacksaw works OK just have some extra blades. Do you really need the glass fiber reinforcement or would cotton or polyester do? A lot less troublesome.

Some lessons learned are hard to eradicate, The Sargent Corps was quite insistent: "Thou shall not camp in sight."

That is what I said - low density - but it burns well. If one wants to regulate the temp of an oven alders are much better at that than the denser species. For maximum heating the more dense woods are better. Really depends what one wants. By weight the calorific value of hard woods is...

Can't comment on those here non-natives but birch bark contains a lot of wax and the resulting soot is very sticky. Conifers that contain a lot of resin tend to behave a bit like that. My experience on alders (2 sp.) is though that they burn quite well and relatively clean. Being very low...

Ouch! Maybe somebody should have told them the idea is to warm the cabin. A very small closable vent makes sense if there are other air sources. I have seen designs where the flue pipe is used to warm the incoming air, a good idea as long as it does not cause water condensation in the pipe...

One can take the air for the stove directly from outside, then the stove can actually be totally sealed. That is sometimes done with very small cabins that are very airtight. The alternative is to have large enough air vents, that can be a problem in very cold surroundings.

Just curious, what are they up to then now?

The temp at the mug lip cannot be greater the the temp of the liquid in it what can vary is how fast it heats up. If one has a mug made of material with exceedingly poor heat conduction the lip might never heat up very high as the liquid cools down before that. On the other hand that means...

There are a few different ways of doing differential heat treatment one of them is to just heat part of the blade that can be either austenizing just part of the blade needing hardening or in the tempering process just heating the part needing softening. There are actually several variants in...

Their specific heats are also within 10% of each other but because of their different densities (SS almost double of Ti) and often thinner walls TI mugs are likely to heat up much faster. Though the end temp is likely to be about equal.

On the third hand thermal conductivities of stainless steel and titanium are practically equal, Aluminium is way higher.

I would like to have a makila or two and would not mind a nice kis fokos both have worked as trekking poles in the past.

As a first guess it is a female reed bunting.

Not only that but a fairly safe straightforward process to a safe to use powerful explosive. Kind of terrorist dream. It is a quite important precursor to a lot of other chemicals so it is not going to be phased out totally, just private use.

If you read carefully you'll notice I did not make the mistake. :) I have been in enough wet colds to know that. Do remember my first night in -35C and I was not sure how it would go, survived and even slept some. Military here uses heated tents mostly and they just have 3 season bags, the...