Smock, Windproof, 1942 Pattern (the original 'SAS smock'), but made in Ventile in 2026!

[Sooty22]

Just finished this!



It is spot-on per the original;



But with a couple of small deviations;

-I made it in Antique Brone Ventile L24
-it does not have any double layers anywhere (originals have them on the shoulders and lower abdomen panels), as I find Ventile loses a lot of breathability with two layers and this smock has no vents at all (I wanted the correct looks)
-I shifted the lower pockets up a touch. Some other originals also have them a bit higher, and that helps the pockets clear a modern rucksack's hip belt and ride above them.

The white cotton tape is probably a bit too much, considering swapping those to cotton cord and leather adjusters.

Other than that, really enjoyed making the pattern and putting it together! Next steps are to try to hand-paint a length of fabric in the original 'brush stroke' camo and make a camo version.

I even ordered printed labels that match the originals The printed ones that arrived are a bit shiny and white, so maybe soak them in tea and vinegar, then spray a matte acrylic varnish. Or just forget about it and let it get dirty

 

[Toddy]

That looks so good so right.

It's a work though; I hate sewing ventile, especially over layers. Well done keeping it so tidy.

M

 

[Buckshot]

Looks good
Is this for something special or just for fun?

 

[Sooty22]

That looks so good so right.

It's a work though; I hate sewing ventile, especially over layers. Well done keeping it so tidy.

M

What do you find tricky with Ventile? I remember I found a few things frustrating at first when I starter with it, but this one worked fine -mostly.

I use corespun polyester thread (a Coats Epic 80 works great), needle I think a denim one, and 2mm stitches. Very old Janome sewing machine, it looks like it would go through steel plate !

 

[Sooty22]

Looks good
Is this for something special or just for fun?

Aside from always wanting one and loving sewing, this one is more of a development piece; I wanted to prepare a pattern for maybe making these commercially in the future, but no sites etc yet. I have so far outfitted the whole extended family in Ventile and waxed cotton smocks, so I need some more people to vent my sewing frustration on

 

[Tengu]

Its beautiful in its simplicity and functionality.

Id love one but I already have a few canvas or ventile kagules

 

[Sooty22]

Its beautiful in its simplicity and functionality.

Id love one but I already have a few canvas or ventile kagules

I think there is a lot of compromise in having one of these, as they really do lack a lot of features of a modern one (vents!), and also Ventile is maybe great on paper but too much of a compromise; it is not as waterproof as say goretex / etc, or as breathable as just a windproof cotton layer.

I find Ventile fantastic in two scenarios only; either brutally brutally cold and windy (I used Ventile outers on hikes in central Europe last winter in -20oC, absolutely brilliant), or mostly static / low intensity activities like stalking.

I think I'd only ever buy one of these purely for the looks, in which case the Ventile is probably superfluous and just makes it expensive for no real reason. In which case, there are plenty of very good and very cheap repros out there, cheaper than what the Ventile alone cost for one of these, which made me question any commercial viability.

On the other hand, nothing stops one asking for customisation. Originals were often with added half- or full length zips, some had elasticated cuffs added, and one could move pockets around, add vents, or double up on layers in specific areas like shoulders/hood. But then again, there is so much more out there, already existing, so I don't see much point in starting anything, other than for venting my sewing frustration!

 

[Toddy]

What do you find tricky with Ventile? I remember I found a few things frustrating at first when I starter with it, but this one worked fine -mostly.

I use corespun polyester thread (a Coats Epic 80 works great), needle I think a denim one, and 2mm stitches. Very old Janome sewing machine, it looks like it would go through steel plate !

That's it exactly. I mostly handsew, so that was a no past a few bits that I wanted to finish very precisely.
My sewing machines are usually used for, and are fit for, dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons.
The ventile really needed more ooomph.

 

[Sooty22]

That's it exactly. I mostly handsew, so that was a no past a few bits that I wanted to finish very precisely.
My sewing machines are usually used for, and are fit for, dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons.
The ventile really needed more ooomph.

I have a Janome 360M 'New Home', I think it's from the 90s by the looks of it, still like new and very easy to fix things on. You can pick them up on ebay for around £25-100 depending on how shiny they are! Worth getting one if you find it, or something similar. Looks small and 'amateur', but I think it has a 50W motor, pretty powerful for that kind of stuff. Most of the time people get rid of them because someone died, they tried it to see if it works and they had no idea how to adjust it, so they sell them as 'for spares' etc for sweeties. Pure gold.

When I first had a go at sewing, it was at the in-laws' place. It used to be Eastern Bloc back in the day, and the mother-in-law still has and uses her 1960s machine. I asked her if it will go through 8 layers of Ventile and I presented some fabric, at which point she laughed and said that machine was probably used to sew the Iron Curtain...

With sewing machines, it's certainly a case of 'they don't make them like they used to'. It's probably over £400 for a decent one these days.

 

[Toddy]

Older, metal chassis machines will generally push through, not so much the 1970's domestic ones though, they were the cusp of when things changed.

I have had older ones, but for the sewing I do, I mostly want fine and accurate, so that's what I have. I have two machines, I don't have room for more, not for something I'd sew so rarely.

Even using the older machine though, ventile and waxed canvas stretched my patience, only goretex was worse. My modern ones manage upholstery and furnishing fabric which is about as heavy as I go these days.

Decent needles, decent thread and patience does an awful lot of good though

 

[Falstaff]

I'm in awe of your sewing skills. I wondered about the draw-tape instead of cord.
Might have related to cost and availability but it might also be more comfortable and bunch up/cut into the skin less than cord. Pyjama trousers usually have tape not cord on the waistband possibly for that reason.
Don't think the tape will stay white for very long in use!. (either dyed or shoe-blacked by the squaddie)

 

[FIU]

Just finished this!

View attachment 104022View attachment 104023

It is spot-on per the original;

View attachment 104024

But with a couple of small deviations;

-I made it in Antique Brone Ventile L24
-it does not have any double layers anywhere (originals have them on the shoulders and lower abdomen panels), as I find Ventile loses a lot of breathability with two layers and this smock has no vents at all (I wanted the correct looks)
-I shifted the lower pockets up a touch. Some other originals also have them a bit higher, and that helps the pockets clear a modern rucksack's hip belt and ride above them.

The white cotton tape is probably a bit too much, considering swapping those to cotton cord and leather adjusters.

Other than that, really enjoyed making the pattern and putting it together! Next steps are to try to hand-paint a length of fabric in the original 'brush stroke' camo and make a camo version.

I even ordered printed labels that match the originals The printed ones that arrived are a bit shiny and white, so maybe soak them in tea and vinegar, then spray a matte acrylic varnish. Or just forget about it and let it get dirty

View attachment 104025
View attachment 104026

Excellent work. Bravo!

 

[Aristotle]

It is very impressive. You have some good skills.

Do you have photos of other things that you have made?


I'm tempted by a Helikon-Tex SAS Smock
-Obviously not as authentic and probably not as well-made.

 

[Sooty22]

I'm in awe of your sewing skills. I wondered about the draw-tape instead of cord.
Might have related to cost and availability but it might also be more comfortable and bunch up/cut into the skin less than cord. Pyjama trousers usually have tape not cord on the waistband possibly for that reason.
Don't think the tape will stay white for very long in use!. (either dyed or shoe-blacked by the squaddie)

Nothing like a bit of Blanco Probably used tape as it was maybe easier to 'feel' with gloved hands and less fiddly than cord.

 

[Sooty22]

It is very impressive. You have some good skills.

Do you have photos of other things that you have made?


I'm tempted by a Helikon-Tex SAS Smock
-Obviously not as authentic and probably not as well-made.

Sure. Here is a closer view of the smock, decent stitching and I think I ironed out some tension adjustment issues I had in the past.


This one is from a commercial pattern, made it for my dad using the Merchant and Mills 'Landgate' smock pattern and in yellow P200 Hybrid Aero dry-wax cotton. That pattern is very much identical to the original Windproof Smock, but they added raglan sleeves and a neck zipper, and squared off the back of the neck on the hood.


A B10 flight jacket, in ventile with a sheep's wool pile lining. It has since acquired a removable sheepskin collar, which I did so that it can be washed more easily.



My hunting smock in a fawn Loden. The funky 'letterbox' pocket is holding binoculars and stops them bashing stuff and making noise, also keeping them dry and warm so they don't fog up


A two-layer fully reversible olive/white sides Ventile smock, based on the 10th mountain brigade reversible ski parka. Removable coyote fur, so it can be washed, and also worn in rain and not just snow (soggy fur... no bueno!)


The one above, overlapped by one I made 'for my wife', and which accidentally turned out kind of my size...


Me wearing 'my wife's' smock...


I have made a few more things. I have very little work in the winter, so I went mental with sewing

 

[Aristotle]

Those are excellent. The "ski parka" and flight jacket look particularly good.

 

[John Fenna]

Some seriously good looking kit there!
I too do a fair bit of sewing my own kit and my favourite jacket design is based on the old SAS smock - but with a full front zip - 1960's model I think ...
I have made it in several different fabrics but my favourite is Ventile - but that one is wearing out now and at current prices I cannot afford the fabric to make another ...
All sorts of fabrics there, from Cambric to Ventile ...
I have had to recut the pattern several times ... over the time these pictures were taken I lost 7 stone!

 

[Sooty22]

Some seriously good looking kit there!
I too do a fair bit of sewing my own kit and my favourite jacket design is based on the old SAS smock - but with a full front zip - 1960's model I think ...
I have made it in several different fabrics but my favourite is Ventile - but that one is wearing out now and at current prices I cannot afford the fabric to make another ...View attachment 104054View attachment 104055View attachment 104056View attachment 104057View attachment 104058View attachment 104060View attachment 104061
All sorts of fabrics there, from Cambric to Ventile ...
I have had to recut the pattern several times ... over the time these pictures were taken I lost 7 stone!

Spot on, that pattern is how I would change the 'original' if I wanted to modernise it; leaves space for the hip belt of the rucksack to ride over the bottom pockets, a full length zip and slightly more volume in the pockets. Makes perfect sense that they evolved that way.
Neat work btw!

 

[John Fenna]

Many thanks!
I drew up the pattern myself, so adjusting it was easy, I just looked at pictures of the original smock and applied the styling to my basic block.
I went to art college just to learn pattern cutting and came away with an OND in Fashion Design and did a bit of design work for Craghoppers, Snowdon Clothing etc before returning to outdoor skills training as a career and just designing and making my own clothing and equipment including everything from Neolithic gear to totally modern high performance clothing
I just love making stuff in fabric, leather and now wood as I am learning Green Woodworking and wood-turning skills ... but sewing my own clothing is still my main area of "making".
I started it all because I could not buy gear and clothing that fitted my needs exactly ( or fitted my body shape well enough) and that sounds as if that was your start point as well
I am glad that my most recent clothing projects were in lightweight linen - just what I need in the current weather!
I regularly post on my makings in my "My Covid-19 and later projects" thread but I have been making a lot longer than that
Have fun with your making stuff - and post up the results as I would be more than interested in seeing more of your pieces!

 

[Sooty22]

Many thanks!
I drew up the pattern myself, so adjusting it was easy, I just looked at pictures of the original smock and applied the styling to my basic block.
I went to art college just to learn pattern cutting and came away with an OND in Fashion Design and did a bit of design work for Craghoppers, Snowdon Clothing etc before returning to outdoor skills training as a career and just designing and making my own clothing and equipment including everything from Neolithic gear to totally modern high performance clothing
I just love making stuff in fabric, leather and now wood as I am learning Green Woodworking and wood-turning skills ... but sewing my own clothing is still my main area of "making".
I started it all because I could not buy gear and clothing that fitted my needs exactly ( or fitted my body shape well enough) and that sounds as if that was your start point as well
I am glad that my most recent clothing projects were in lightweight linen - just what I need in the current weather!
I regularly post on my makings in my "My Covid-19 and later projects" thread but I have been making a lot longer than that
Have fun with your making stuff - and post up the results as I would be more than interested in seeing more of your pieces!

Exactly same reason for starting here... every time I looked for clothes adjusted to my size (long), it was always turning into a "+£50 and non-returnable, thank you very much".
When I made the first smock (the 'reversible ski parka'), it was the first time ever that I had a piece of clothing that had the right back shape, arms length, and hood size for me. I went through a few iterations and a lot of scrapped fabric, but settled to the 'basic' size for me, and settled that 'one size fits all' argument once and for all!

What do you think of two-layer Ventile garments? Any advantages? I've made some jackets using two layers, and my feeling is it's pointless and never again. Turns out more expensive and time-consuming to make than two individual layers (especially in reversible layouts), and the individual ones wash easier, dry faster and offer much more flexibility (one or two layers, and which colour goes on the outside). Also, there are never any matching seams or 'through' seams to worry about leaks, so it's far more waterproof with both layers on.