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Bushcraft and folder: it's possible? How much long blade?

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Alfredo said:
... a simple draft ... a folder simple but robust
Specs: ...
cost (estimate): 90 euros
Click to expand...

I like the look of it Alfredo. The only thing that bothers me is that there doesn't seem to be very much blade metal around the pivot hole. What steel are you thinking of? Is the grind similar to that of your parangs? I think I'm starting to recognize your style. :)
 
JonathanD said:
Now that is the kind of robust thing I'm talking about. Bit too pretty with wrong grinds, but the robustness is there
Click to expand...

Yeah my feelings exactly. If this was going to happen I want it to be a bomb-proof ( very nearly ) , Idiot proof ( Literally ) piece of kit that i can pass down as a family heir-loom. Made to exceedingly hi specs but with practicality and function as the rasion d'etre not just to look tact-cool or built from a heat shield tile off the space shuttle.

( As an aside I do like Bernie Garlands Folder aswell. )



I want the nexus point of object of art and sharp-pointy-foldy-bushy-thing!!




I'll take Serial Number 001 please. Please form an unorderly line of giggling types after me...
 
ged said:
I like the look of it Alfredo. The only thing that bothers me is that there doesn't seem to be very much blade metal around the pivot hole. What steel are you thinking of? Is the grind similar to that of your parangs? I think I'm starting to recognize your style. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Ged. Yes, though a grind similar to Parang 6".
Steel: I would say S30V, but what about D2 also or 154CM?
Pivot hole: I agree, it's just a draft, I'll modify it :-)
 
Speaking seriously mates, if you really want to form a line for the "BUK folder", I'm of course with you. I also suggest to collect informal subscriptions (just to understand how much people could be interested in it), than show few drafts to the forumites, pick up one of them, and go to the final project. About the maker, all depends about numbers: if some like 100 pieces or more, we may uask to an industrial maker, if just 10 peices i.e. we may ask to a maker like Stu or others that you know up there. What do you think?
In the meantime I'm working on two different drafts, you will see soon :-)
Alfredo
 
Alfredo said:
Steel: I would say S30V, but what about D2 also or 154CM?
Click to expand...

These are just my personal thoughts and there must be many people here who could offer more depth of experience. S30V, 154CM and probably a few others could be fine, I think D2 might raise a few eyebrows. I've no personal experience of it, but as it happens I was talking to Longstrider about it a couple of weeks ago. He tells me it's a steel which polarizes opinion. I don't think many manufacturers would want to go there. It's said to keep its edge very well, but it has a coarse grain structure which means that the edge can also be coarse. I'm not one that feels the need to shave with an axe, so edge retention would get my vote, but there's also the question of rust resistance. I don't think D2 is quite so good in that department. For a blade that's used for a lot of wet work that would rule it out for me.
 
ged said:
These are just my personal thoughts and there must be many people here who could offer more depth of experience. S30V, 154CM and probably a few others could be fine, I think D2 might raise a few eyebrows. I've no personal experience of it, but as it happens I was talking to Longstrider about it a couple of weeks ago. He tells me it's a steel which polarizes opinion. I don't think many manufacturers would want to go there. It's said to keep its edge very well, but it has a coarse grain structure which means that the edge can also be coarse. I'm not one that feels the need to shave with an axe, so edge retention would get my vote, but there's also the question of rust resistance. I don't think D2 is quite so good in that department. For a blade that's used for a lot of wet work that would rule it out for me.
Click to expand...

I had good experience with D2, but it's true for sure respect to S30V or 154CM he has a lower rust resistance. Let's say S30V, I think many of us could be approve it :-)
 
What do you think about this draft
Specs
Lengt OAL: 245 mm
Lenght blade: 108 mm
Lenght thick.: 4 mm
Steel: S30V
Handle: Titanium + Steel (lanyard hole)
Opening syst.: Thumb-stud (oversize)
Locking syst.: Integral-lock
Pivot: 11 mm diam.
Whashers: Phosphor Bronze, with holes
Features: pivot, thumb-studs, whashers, integral-lock are oversized for hard works; the handle allows 3 different way to handle the knife (advanced, normal, withdraw)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Alfredo
 
Last edited:
Here's mine. First draft so very rough at the moment.

DSC07129.jpg
 
Alfredo , very nice. Love the positive locking of it.

JD , What sort of measurements have you in mind?
 
Alfredo , is it possible to put up a schematic showing the blade returned in? , to show how much handle material is retained and not removed. So turn the blade through its pivot point but show the blade closed up?
 
Alfredo said:
What do you think about this draft
Specs
Lengt OAL: 245 mm
Lenght blade: 108 mm
Lenght thick.: 4 mm
Steel: S30V
Handle: Titanium + Steel (lanyard hole)
Opening syst.: Thumb-stud (oversize)
Locking syst.: Integral-lock
Pivot: 11 mm diam.
Whashers: Phosphor Bronze, with holes
Features: pivot, thumb-studs, whashers, integral-lock are oversized for hard works; the handle allows 3 different way to handle the knife (advanced, normal, withdraw)


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Alfredo
Click to expand...

I like that Alfredo, but the angled back would drive me nuts in use and maybe be a blister maker.
 
Ok, handle modyfied as requested by my good friend Jonathan, this could save any blisters on his (and mine) hands :-)
TeeDee: yes is possible, I'll post the blade only and the knife "closed"
Alfredo


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Last edited:
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