how do you resharpen them
how do you resharpen a laplander?! (just curious... never owned one, but using some bahco carpenter's saws someone brought to central america -- they're getting a bit dull, so touching them up would be nice (the files used in the olden days to sharpen saws don't exist here...) i like my silkys, but sharpening them is (almost) impossible... where silkys DEFINITELY have (another) advantage over the laplander is their wide number of models, sizes, dipperent TPI and straight/ curved versions so i won't swap anytime soon!
Laplander blades are considered a consumable/disposable. Reason being that its far cheaper and easier to replace, than resharpen. THey have 2 layers of teeth sharpened on both the inside and the outside of each layer.
£15 for a replacement blade... Easily that if not more for the correct file to resarpen it with... then you need to skill/ability to resharpen such a blade... Then you need the time to do it.. So just to re-sharpen your laplander for the first time, you could probably buy 10 new saws, never mind just the blades. Then, theres the fact that a laplander has harder steel teeth, welded to a softer blade/body... how many times can you resharpen it before needing to buy a new blade anyway?
Its not a case of can you, but more one of is it worth it to do so?
Another example that springs to mind. Tefal Frying pans. £25 to £30 for a good sized one. VEry good none stick coating... for a year or two... Solid handle... for a year or two. Now, when the handle starts getting wobbly, you can just re tighten it... for a bit. THen you start stripping the threads of the female part as they are very shallow... Ok, so, you can do what i do.. take the handle apart when new, apply an adhesive to the threads thats heat resistant... Super glue in my case... A ha, handle issue resolved... and yes, for the most part it is. Then the non stick coating starts coming off anfter a year or two, depending on use. Now, this coating is toxic if ingested... So what do you do? Well, there are 2 options. We buy a new pan, or we use abraisives to scour the entirity of said coating away.. now, you're left with bare Aluminium... But thats not none stick right... So, you have a google because you want to know if Alu can be none stick. Yes it can. But requires hours of time and effort to polymerise veg oil onto the aluminium... no worries i'm free this weekend... then you need to remove the handle, which you semi permanently attached so it didn't come loose due to short weak threads, and continuous contraction and expansion of the metal itself due to heat.... I can go on... But i'm sure you get my point. Sometimes... its just better to buy another blade...or pan. Guess it all comes down to... Whats an hour worth to you? 3 hours work and buy a new blade and have money left in the bank, or 3 hours trying to resharpen it, and end up with less money in the bank and still needing to buy a blade?
'
Also guilty in having the green Swanndri Shirt, making a wool blanket anorak and other stuff.... But I still wear it frequently since years, not just a fad for me.
) firesteels worked but, why bother ? a wee scrape down one worked fine.
