Sharpening......
- Thread starter Runnerman
- Start date
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I have been a wood carver for some years. I was taught freehand sharpening with water stones and a leather strop for honing.
Maybe the last 5+ years, I use 3M fine grades of wet&dry automotive finishing sandpapers and honing on box card as a strop.
Always fresh, light weight, portable and economical.
I work with half a dozen different bevel angles. A crooked knife is far different from a spokeshave is different from a D adze.
The key thing is consistency. To tune up an edge to the way it was before.
I think people fall into using one method over others (me included) as we experience some success which we can refine.
Even the machines like TomZ and Tormek and systems like Lansky have their learning curves = no short cuts.
Maybe the last 5+ years, I use 3M fine grades of wet&dry automotive finishing sandpapers and honing on box card as a strop.
Always fresh, light weight, portable and economical.
I work with half a dozen different bevel angles. A crooked knife is far different from a spokeshave is different from a D adze.
The key thing is consistency. To tune up an edge to the way it was before.
I think people fall into using one method over others (me included) as we experience some success which we can refine.
Even the machines like TomZ and Tormek and systems like Lansky have their learning curves = no short cuts.
Not a lot has changed in the last few years! Whatever you were doing even as much as 10 years ago will still be how its done now. Guess the only thing I have noticed is that no one is talking about wet and dry on mouse mats the way they used to.
Mind you Chris, Sargey showed me that exact method at Bushmoot a few months ago, and my Mora Classic & others have never been so sharp. Very cheap & easy too, though admittedly it's harder to source a mouse mat these days.
The three knives you listed all have different grinds and so need slightly different sharpening.
I like the lansky system for the flat grinds, largee bench stones for the scandi grinds and I usually do convexes free hand with the stones from the lansky. Having said that I've never left a convex on a knife and generally chnage hem to full flat. So modt convexes I do are axes.
The one thing that they all gwt is a finish on a good strop. The ones from Longstrider work best in my experience.
I like the lansky system for the flat grinds, largee bench stones for the scandi grinds and I usually do convexes free hand with the stones from the lansky. Having said that I've never left a convex on a knife and generally chnage hem to full flat. So modt convexes I do are axes.
The one thing that they all gwt is a finish on a good strop. The ones from Longstrider work best in my experience.
what is this giggery pokery that ye speak of good fellow......?
its as simple as it sounds. Lay wet and dry over a mouse mat and sharpen by dragging back only. The hive of the mat will make a convex edge. Care is needed not to push too much and roll the edge too much. There are various ways of clamping the paper on.
See if you can find the "hoodoo hone" that was a good example. Personally I liked something with a LOT less give than a mouse mat. I did rather well last Moot using an 18" length of of bicycle inner tube over wood with old 2x72" grinding belts instead of paper.
I bought this kit some time ago and have never looked back. All the knives I have used it on are now scarily sharp. Watch the associated video's accompanying the page to get a good idea of how to use the kit.
http://www.beaverbushcraft.co.uk/ou...t-Survival-Diamond-Sharpening-Kit-258000.html
http://www.beaverbushcraft.co.uk/ou...t-Survival-Diamond-Sharpening-Kit-258000.html
