Wool ski trousers

[Martti]

As promised here is what I hope will the first DIY project for my new clothing kit. I have chosen trousers to be the first as I already own good enough set of wool commando sweaters and wool jackets for my upper body but nothing really nice for my poor legs. The pattern I am going to use in this project is based on a pattern for ski trousers printed on Harry Simons' 1945 book Drafting trousers for men, boys, women, a complete and reliable system. The pattern is drawn based on measurements taken from the user so it will be interesting to see how well they fit. I am pretty much going to use the pattern as it is but I am also modifying the pockets to follow the example of Wehrmacht ski and field trousers from World War Two which I'm quite fond of. For those living in United States of America it is available straight through hathitrust.org, but others have to use a USA-based proxy to get the pattern and instructions.

I will use c. 16 oz Finnish sarka grey wool cloth I bought next to nothing from a surplus store. It is a bit lightweight compared to the ones I have seen using across the pond but based on the experiences of the Finnish Army it should be just fine for my climate. I have yet to find proper linen thread for the project but hopefully I get over the problem before I have finished drawing the patterns. Otherwise I will have to do with cotton or polyester line (I am not a real friend of artificial fibres).

 

[RonW]

You have my attention....

 

[Wayland]

Mine too...

 

[Martti]

I plotted today the pattern on my computer and printed it out in scale. It was not I was expecting based on the example on the book, but maybe too fashion-like for my use. Fortunately there is a work trousers pattern on the same book and I also have a Finnish one from old tailor magazine. I shall try those tomorrow! Actually one of my favourite trousers design, apart from Wehrmacht designs I told earlier, are very simplified US Utility trousers from 1950s. Unfortunately the shop never has my size and they are made out of cotton.

Speaking of cotton I have to admit that I have not found proper linen thread for the project but good cotton one.

 

[Martti]

I finally found a pattern that is satisfactory for me and it is actually quite the same as the first one I tried. I'm having the patterns printed in full scale in a week or so. Meanwhile I bought white cotton twill fabric for (minimal) lining and some wooden button templates, which I am going to cover with the cotton left from the lining. Should look fine I think?

 

[treadlightly]

Good luck with this. I'll watch your progress with interest.

 

[Martti]

While waiting for the patterns to be printed, I decided to make few cotton lined buttons for this and other clothing projects.

 

[Martti]

After all that fuss I managed to get the patterns printed out. Hopefully for now on you will receive more frequent updates and maybe some photographs.

 

[Toddy]

Can I help ?
I have good linen thread, and I'm happy to send you some.
Also, may I ask why you're using cotton lining and not linen ?

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Martti]

I have good linen thread, and I'm happy to send you some.

Yes, please!

Also, may I ask why you're using cotton lining and not linen ?

Simply because where I live, twill is only available in cotton, not in linen. I do not think it really matter if one uses cotton over linen or other way around as I said the lining will be minimal and only used around the waist to protect wool from abrasion.

 

[Martti]

I have now made a bed sheet template of the trousers. The pattern is otherwise satisfactory, but it reaches just above to the ankle when standing straight, i.e. when I'm sitting the cuffs will rise nine centimeters above my ankles. I will add another five centimeters to the cuffs and probably add few millmeters to the side seams to adjust the pattern to thicker wool fabric. There is enough room on the knees widthwise but when I'm raising the legs I feel that the fabric is touching the skin on top of the knee. I think I should also add few millimeters to there?

 

[RonW]

I think you really need to take the thickness of the material into account, but also add more to make room for an underlayer for when it gets really cold.

 

[Martti]

I think you really need to take the thickness of the material into account, but also add more to make room for an underlayer for when it gets really cold.

The difference in thickness (c. 0.25 vs. 1.25 mm) is not that great, but I will add few millimeters to the edges to compensate that. The pattern takes account the need of space as it is men to be used as a skiing pants during mid-winter. Actually after comparing few photographs with the pattern, I think that is it actually the same pattern used by United States 10th Mountain Division during WWII!