I have a few projects on the go and want to coat the wood. One is a soap dish and needs waterproofing and the other is a bowl which I want it to have a shiny finish. any ideas people? I would prefer to use natural products rather than chemicals.
Wood coatings?
- Thread starter humdrum_hostage
- Start date
Its going to be a yarn bowl if it all goes to plan. So it is going to have a ball of wool rolling round in it. I just thought being shiny smooth may be the best thing.
Are you using a lathe?
If so, what I would do would be:
- Get it as smooth as you can using tools
- Sand to approx 180 grit (depends how smooth you got with tools)
- Apply some sanding sealant, let dry then sand away, repeat if desired.
- sand to 1200 grit,
- apply finish of your choice.
Mixes of wax and oils are available off the shelf, like danish oil, or some friction polishes.
If using wax, best results come from letting it dry fully between coating and polishing.
A wax coating should give you a sufficient waterproof finish.
If so, what I would do would be:
- Get it as smooth as you can using tools
- Sand to approx 180 grit (depends how smooth you got with tools)
- Apply some sanding sealant, let dry then sand away, repeat if desired.
- sand to 1200 grit,
- apply finish of your choice.
Mixes of wax and oils are available off the shelf, like danish oil, or some friction polishes.
If using wax, best results come from letting it dry fully between coating and polishing.
A wax coating should give you a sufficient waterproof finish.
I got home made bees wax oil off E-bane and im not sure if its made correctly as it doesn't seem to absorb into the wood or even polish up. it tends to just wipe off, even if I leave it on all night.
No lathe, all hand carving.
No lathe, all hand carving.
Do you know what its mixed with?
If you want to spend a bit more on wax shellac, and tung mixes are supposed to give much better finishes, but I've never used them myself.
A bar of beeswax us easy enough to use on a lathe, or things like creamed beeswax come mixed with turps to make application easier.
If you want to spend a bit more on wax shellac, and tung mixes are supposed to give much better finishes, but I've never used them myself.
A bar of beeswax us easy enough to use on a lathe, or things like creamed beeswax come mixed with turps to make application easier.
It is a bees wax/Turps mix but never using a proper brand or commercial brand, I don't know if it behaves the same.
Charles' Law is one of the gas laws in physics. Simply put, heated gases expand, cooled gases contract.
In a kitchen stick project, I preheated my kitchen oven to 325F (no hotter). I slathered the spoons and forks
with olive oil (my choice) then onto a cake rack over a sheet pan and into the oven for 3 minutes BY THE CLOCK.
This is enough time for the air in the surface wood to heat and expand.
Out of the oven to cool, the wood air contracts and sucks the oil finish far down into the surface wood.
You have to heat my kitchen tools to more than 325F to get that oil to move again.
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In a kitchen stick project, I preheated my kitchen oven to 325F (no hotter). I slathered the spoons and forks
with olive oil (my choice) then onto a cake rack over a sheet pan and into the oven for 3 minutes BY THE CLOCK.
This is enough time for the air in the surface wood to heat and expand.
Out of the oven to cool, the wood air contracts and sucks the oil finish far down into the surface wood.
You have to heat my kitchen tools to more than 325F to get that oil to move again.
To follow upon the concept of using Charles' Law,
I just finished a shallow dish wood carving to be used for sink stoppers and other wet things in my kitchen.
It is my intention to paint this dish (birch wood, 5" x 12" x 1.5" ) with melted bee'swax and do the very same oven treatment
to ensure that the melted wax can soak down well into the wood. This dish will be wet and stay wet for some time, many times.
However, in the process of reheating my supper tonight in my electric oven, the freakin' element appears to have died.
Tomorrow is Sunday so no chance of replacing the element. Corroded contacts? We shall see.
In any case, I will do the beeswax experiment and you all will see it here, first.
Pray that I have learned how to post pictures. If not, Fukijima was nothing. You will see the glow from Britain.
I just finished a shallow dish wood carving to be used for sink stoppers and other wet things in my kitchen.
It is my intention to paint this dish (birch wood, 5" x 12" x 1.5" ) with melted bee'swax and do the very same oven treatment
to ensure that the melted wax can soak down well into the wood. This dish will be wet and stay wet for some time, many times.
However, in the process of reheating my supper tonight in my electric oven, the freakin' element appears to have died.
Tomorrow is Sunday so no chance of replacing the element. Corroded contacts? We shall see.
In any case, I will do the beeswax experiment and you all will see it here, first.
Pray that I have learned how to post pictures. If not, Fukijima was nothing. You will see the glow from Britain.
