wire saws

[Steve M]

Shhh ... don't tell Joy, but I've "misplaced" the wire saw she bought for me.

Any recommendations for a good replacement or are they all much of a muchness?

Ta

 

[Peter_t]

tbh i wouldnt bother, at the end of the day they are pretty rubbish. their main perpose is to be easily hidden inside clothing so special forces soldiers can use them to cut fence posts etc. to escape prisoner of war camps. there ok in a pinch or to keep in a survival kit but your far better off with a small folding saw or bowsaw or even just a bowsaw blade alone, then make a wooden frame when you set up camp.
but if SHE bought you one you better replace it befor she finds out lol

pete

 

[Steve M]

Also good for taking down high limbs with fruit on

I just wondered if there were good and bad ones.

 

[DarDar]

Here's two from ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.ie/NATO-COMMANDO-WIRE-SAW-SURVIVAL-SAS-SF-TA-BUSHCRAFT_W0QQitemZ350164794000QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Collectables_Militaria_LE?hash=item350164794000&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.ie/NATO-COMMANDO-WIRE-SAW-SURVIVAL-SAS-SF-TA-BUSHCRAFT_W0QQitemZ350164794000QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Collectables_Militaria_LE?hash=item350164794000&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

[Steve M]

With the greatest of respect, thanks, but I can find them online. I'm just trying to determine which of the six different ones I've found are any good, or otherwise.

 

[DarDar]

Nay bother! I've had two types - ones like above which have all snapped after a couple of uses. I've tried different brands and all had the same problem.

The other type i have is a almost like a bike chain. Every couple of links it has a tooth added. Not as flexible but far stronger and still going after lots of use by enthusiatic scouts!

 

[Steve M]

OK, I got it. I was considering the BCB one, it looked sturdier. There is a chainsaw looking one and there is also one that looks like linked band saw bits.

 

[C_Claycomb]

I have used both the "survival" wire saw, just to experiement, and the one Pocket Chainsaw http://www.pocketchainsaw.com/ and the latter is far superior, but tbh both are pretty crummy. Sure the Pocket Chainsaw is compact, but its pretty energy intensive if you have to use it for cutting fire wood. I think its the kind of thing you might stash in your car or truck for helping to clear downed tree limbs from the road. Really compact but capable for a short burst of intense work.

If I was going on a trip and expected to need to cut a lot of wood, I would pack a bow saw blade and make a frame for it. The blade is light, but a little hard to pack, but it cuts way better than any flexible saw.

For most things though, one of the folding pruning saws works better than the flexible saws. It is easier to use one to cut small loose wood up for the fire than it is to hold something down for use with the flexi saws.

 

[Steve M]

Cheers for the advice chaps.

 

[j.dee69]

I've had 3 of them all snapped after very little use. now i use a laplander a lot more money but at least they do the job right!

 

[helixpteron]

Doug Ritter did a review of these on his

website

 

[Peter_t]

the chain type are slightly better if you must have one. but i find them very awkward to use and exhausting to use even on small peices of fairly soft wood such as birch or willow. the only chain type saw i have used is the 'pocket chainsaw' and even when new the teeth are blunt. there is annother type that uses an adapted chain of a real chainsaw. i have never use one of these but use chainsaws all the time (tree surgeon). chainsaw teeth can be sharpened easyly with a special sized round file and a flat file the file the depth gages (a part infront of the cutters that limmits how deep each tooth cuts). chainsaws only cut in one direction but with the hand chainsaws they have reversed every other link so it can cut in both directions. personaly i think this arangment is a bit of a bodge job

imo you would be better off getting a small gage chain from a real chainsaw that cuts in one direction and make your own. because of the samaller gaps between the cutters it would cut alot smoother. just split it then add handles to each end.

if anybodys interested i could give advice on what size chain etc.

hope this helps

pete

 

[Steve M]

Interesting idea Peter. Do you suppose that a person can could get it going fast enough to be effective? I have a slight concern that half the problem will be getting each leg started.

 

[Urban_Dreamer]

. the only chain type saw i have used is the 'pocket chainsaw' and even when new the teeth are blunt. there is annother type that uses an adapted chain of a real chainsaw.
pete

I'm sure that Pete knows more than me, but my wife bought me a pocket chainsaw. I used it to take down a apple tree in our garden. God did I ache afterwards. The trunk was a good 18" thick.

So they do work, they are just bloody hard work.
I'm not entirely convinced that the reverse acting teeth are there for no reason. I had some significant problems with it binding and a non cutting return pull wouldn't help I'm sure.

A fixed bladed saw is a LOT easier, just not as portable. (and I didn't have one big enough for the job).

 

[Peter_t]

i think it would work well, if each pull is too agressive you can just file the teeth down so it cuts less on each stroke making it easier. or if its not agressive enough you file the depth gages down so it cuts more. as long as you keep it sharp it should work.

most shops that sell chainsaw you can buy chain off the reel so you could have whatever lengh you want.

pete

 

[rawshak]

I'd stick with the folder you already have Steve, it'll do the job much better than a wire saw (I've broken every wire saw I've ever used within 30 mins). If you're looking for something a bit meatier, then you'd not go far wrong with a folding bow saw, or if you're looking at chain saws, a WWII handheld chainsaw. I'll bring mine and show you next time I see you and you can have a go and see how you get on with it. They're pretty knackering, but make short work of even big logs, especially with one person at each end.

 

[sapper1]

Just a quick question to all that have had a wire saw snap,are you using them wih your fingers or wood in the rings?
The most efficient way to use them is like a bow saw,use a piece of hazel or similar and hook the rings onto the ends secured by grooves cut into the hazel.This reduces the angle of the wire at the point of contact to 0 degrees rather than the acute angle that is invariably used when just using fingers or timber in the rings.If you use your fingers you tend to apply too much tension to the saw,this combined with heat generated and an acute angle results in a work hardened piece of wire being overstressed and breaking.Let the saw do the work,you wouldn't put all your weight onto a bowsaw or panel saw,there is no need to do it on a wire saw either.

 

[rawshak]

Just a quick question to all that have had a wire saw snap,are you using them wih your fingers or wood in the rings?
The most efficient way to use them is like a bow saw,use a piece of hazel or similar and hook the rings onto the ends secured by grooves cut into the hazel.This reduces the angle of the wire at the point of contact to 0 degrees rather than the acute angle that is invariably used when just using fingers or timber in the rings.If you use your fingers you tend to apply too much tension to the saw,this combined with heat generated and an acute angle results in a work hardened piece of wire being overstressed and breaking.Let the saw do the work,you wouldn't put all your weight onto a bowsaw or panel saw,there is no need to do it on a wire saw either.

I have always tied loops of parracord to the ends, and then tied those to wooden handles and it has usually worked well. However, I usually have my breakage the moment the saw is put under any stress, such as snagging, which can happen at any time, no matter how careful you are. In my opinion, anything that is that delicate and cannot be trusted at least 99% of the time, is not a tool I want to rely on in the field. These are designed to be concealed or fit into one of those survival tins (don't get me started on those ), basically to get you out of a fix. For regular work (firewood etc), a folding saw is a much better option in my opinion.

 

[sapper1]

I agree a folding saw is the best option,I use one.But if used correctly the wire saws do an admirable job,I think its often a case of expecting too much from what is essentially an emergency saw.As for survival tins,what sort of position are you in to need an off the shelf kit and how did you end up in that state in the first place.(Not you personalyy but anyone in general)Not that I've ever found anything useful in those kits.(ducks for cover) LOL.

 

[rawshak]

IAs for survival tins,what sort of position are you in to need an off the shelf kit and how did you end up in that state in the first place.(Not you personalyy but anyone in general)Not that I've ever found anything useful in those kits.(ducks for cover) LOL.

Couldn't agree more

You should start a thread on it