wax cotton vs fjallraven g1000

[mark l]

I know this has been disscussed before and I might be mad but....
I like waxed cotton within reason and subject to limitations it works well and I like the proven tecnology, but I find most jackets poorly designed.

What is required is a well designed jacket with a good attached hood, adjustable cuffs and no lining to hold onto the damp. Fjallraven g1000 jackets look excellent but possibly only water resistant but what if you waxed a g1000 properly with a good wax dressing do people think that might produce a servicable waxed shell?

has anyone tried would be interested to know

mark lang

 

[andy_e]

This link might be useful to you ...

http://www.greenmanbushcraft.co.uk/clothing/fjallraven-greenland-wax.htm

... not tried it myself, but GreenmanBushcraft is a member here.

 

[SimonM]

I use the Greenland Wax to treat my Forester trousers.

I was advised by the staff at Tamarack to use one small block each time I treated the trousers, paying extra attention to the seat and knee areas. After rubbing in the wax I put the trousers in the tumble dryer on medium.

The wax so far has kept my legs dry without having to resort to overtrousers.

I see no reason why it shouldn't work for a jacket, but remember it does wear off over time and if you wash the garment you will need to reapply the wax.

I hope that helps,

Simon

 

[andy_e]

SimonM, how do you applying the wax do you melt it first or just rub it on like a big crayon and then heat treat it in the tumble-dryer?

 

[big_swede]

ANdy, I rub my wax like a big crayon, and then use a hair-dryer on it. Works a treat.

To answer the original question, the g1000 garnments from fjällräven are really waterreppellent, when waxed, yes. But they are, however, not as waterreppellent as waxed cotton (which I would rate as almost waterproof). g1000 offers some pros over waxed cotton anyway as they are; better designed, faster drying when wet, not as thick (cooler) and have a higher vapour permeability (Ha! not breathable, NO fabric breathes). Wax cotton is on the other hand 'thorn-proof', has a higher water column and can be found for cheaper than fjällräven. Fjällräven can be retreated in the field using a stove or a fire. Both are mosquito-proof.

So in short, for walking the dog around the neighbourhood and slight rain, wax cotton. For longer outdoor ventures, G1000 or eptfe shells.

 

[SimonM]

As Big Swede says - just rub it in like a big crayon. It makes your garment go whiteish - don't worry it goes back to its normal colour when melted in.

I don't use the hairdryer though - I bung it in the drier on medium until it has all melted and soaked into the fabric.

Simon

 

[malente]

I second that - one small block per trouser works the charm.

You can even leave out the crotch area or apply thinner there, then you don't have so much of a sweating problem. And extra thickness on the front of the thights.

Regarding Jackets, I'd love to have a properly cut/ designed Barbour or similar, but the designs are very traditional. The Forrester Jacket of Fjallraven is similar to the M-65 Parka and also, there's a new Barbour in the same military style design. Expensive tho.

Mike

 

[SimonM]

I looked at that as well ...

... tempting!

this guy on Evil bay seems about the cheapest (no link to seller etc)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-BARBOUR-C...ageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

Simon

 

[andy_e]

Cheers guys, I might give that a go on my own Foresters.

 

[big_swede]

The real serious drawback with the wax coats is the cotton lining, that seriously inhibits vapour transport. I ripped that out of my cheapo coat and replaced it with a homemade mesh lining.

 

[Jedadiah]

If it's any good to you, there is a Barbour that fit's mark 1's description and it is one of the jackets i've had for longer than i can remember. If you want a wax jacket with no (or very little) liner and an attached hood that is not you 'regular' traditional Barbour design i would highly recommend the Barbour Durham Flyweight. Before Gortex was issued to the forces and we just had the rubber rubbish, those in the know (me included) kept a Durham folded up in the top pocket of the bergan. As soon as anyone who like parade ground uniform was out of the way (us on op's) they went on sharpish. Light as a feather (ish) top piece of kit. I still wear mine when out 'scrafting. It's looking a little shabby now, but it's got every right to, i got it second hand in 1989!

 

[malente]

... tempting!

yes I agree!

But for that money you can buy a full rack of basic kit and still have change for the bus ride to Scotland

Mike

 

[Toddy]

Waxing the coat will stop it being breathable but the design may well be a lot better.

I'm in agreement with Big Swede, the cotton liner is the problem with most wax jackets, but the quilted wadding type padding is just as bad.
I made my own wax jacket but I lined it with fine wool and it's been brilliant. The wool is always warm though so if you are really exerting yourself you have to be able to do as the Inuit do with their furs and let air come in from the bottom and out at the neck.
If you are buying something of the cost of a Barbour I reckon just buy the ventile. It breathes in a way that the wax jacket doesn't. Otherwise the cheaper wax jackets are just as good as the expensive ones, especially if you replace the lining. The local EWM outlet had gents jackets for £35 last week.....and that's not going to break the bank to 'scraft around in.

cheers,
Toddy