Got a few examples below of where I have used different materials to achieve a variety of textured and asfectic looks.
First I will discuss the differeance I found between buffalo and the long cow horn - The cow was alot softer and lighter in weight, plus like the long buffalo horn they are hollow until about 10 inches from the ends. Unlike the buffalo which has no distinct differing layers, the cow has a white outer which is easily scraped away with a knife and then finially with 120 - 300 grit sandpaper (useing high grade paper is best because of the softness of the horns material) under this layer is a much thinner translucent layer which comes up to a very nice sheen once polished - the buffalo being of much harder material should be sanded with 80 grit upwards to first get rid of the grooves.
The methods I use to carve or smooth these materials is discussed in the http://blog.mtn-m.co.uk/__oneclick_uploads/2009/06/knapped-steel-knife-and-buffalo-horn-handle.pdf tutorial. The only differance with these horns was that I used an electric plain sander fixed into my vice using like a belt or disc sander - saved alot of time and in some cases produced a better finish.
The sambar stag horn is much denser then deer stag antler and has a much smaller amount of soft interior - all I did with this was clear out debris from within its folds and polish, then drilled ahole to take the knife tang.
The buffalo sheath was cut to shape then sanded with 60 - 120 - 320 grit paper followed by the polishing materials - lastly it was drilled with a long wood bit (8mm) to take the knife - you may notice the hole created at the bottom of it where I misjudged the depth the bit had gone in, it was a mistake but later thought that it was proabaly a good idea to allow any water to escape instead of rust the blade.
The cow horn as discussed eariler was scraped then sanded and polished - these are quite inexpensive horns to buy but for a job like this you really need to be able to pick them yourself as I was able to from http://www.highlandhorn.com/shop.asp. The hole part way up it was put in using a dremel grinding bit then smoothed with the sand paper.
Both of these items are going to have leather straps sewn on around their circumferance to act as belt holders (for the knife) and two loops placed top and bottom of the cow horn quiver to take the straps needed to go over the shoulder. I will probably post these once finished but thought that others may be interested in these initial and uncommon uses for horn.
Paul
First I will discuss the differeance I found between buffalo and the long cow horn - The cow was alot softer and lighter in weight, plus like the long buffalo horn they are hollow until about 10 inches from the ends. Unlike the buffalo which has no distinct differing layers, the cow has a white outer which is easily scraped away with a knife and then finially with 120 - 300 grit sandpaper (useing high grade paper is best because of the softness of the horns material) under this layer is a much thinner translucent layer which comes up to a very nice sheen once polished - the buffalo being of much harder material should be sanded with 80 grit upwards to first get rid of the grooves.
The methods I use to carve or smooth these materials is discussed in the http://blog.mtn-m.co.uk/__oneclick_uploads/2009/06/knapped-steel-knife-and-buffalo-horn-handle.pdf tutorial. The only differance with these horns was that I used an electric plain sander fixed into my vice using like a belt or disc sander - saved alot of time and in some cases produced a better finish.
The sambar stag horn is much denser then deer stag antler and has a much smaller amount of soft interior - all I did with this was clear out debris from within its folds and polish, then drilled ahole to take the knife tang.
The buffalo sheath was cut to shape then sanded with 60 - 120 - 320 grit paper followed by the polishing materials - lastly it was drilled with a long wood bit (8mm) to take the knife - you may notice the hole created at the bottom of it where I misjudged the depth the bit had gone in, it was a mistake but later thought that it was proabaly a good idea to allow any water to escape instead of rust the blade.
The cow horn as discussed eariler was scraped then sanded and polished - these are quite inexpensive horns to buy but for a job like this you really need to be able to pick them yourself as I was able to from http://www.highlandhorn.com/shop.asp. The hole part way up it was put in using a dremel grinding bit then smoothed with the sand paper.
Both of these items are going to have leather straps sewn on around their circumferance to act as belt holders (for the knife) and two loops placed top and bottom of the cow horn quiver to take the straps needed to go over the shoulder. I will probably post these once finished but thought that others may be interested in these initial and uncommon uses for horn.
Paul
